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Kwasy PHA. Delikatna rewolucja w pielęgnacji skóry

PHA Acids: A Gentle Revolution in Skin Care

by Anna Wasilewska - founder of the Orientana brand

Acids in cosmetics have been gaining popularity for years, especially in the context of exfoliation and improving skin texture. The most common are AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid) and BHAs (salicylic acid), which work wonders but can cause irritation . In response to the needs of people with sensitive and reactive skin, cosmetology has embraced PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) —equally effective but significantly gentler.
What are PHAs , how do they work, and why have they become so popular? You can read more below. I'll also introduce Orientana cosmetics with gluconolactone (PHA), which combine the effectiveness of modern biotechnology with skin safety.

Contents:

  • Introduction - acids in cosmetics and the role of PHA
  • What are PHA acids?
  • How do PHA acids work on the skin?
  • PHA vs AHA and BHA acids - key differences
  • Gluconolactone - the most popular PHA acid
  • Advantages of using PHA acids in skincare
  • Orientana cosmetics with PHA acid (gluconolactone)
  • Lactobionic acid in Orientana cosmetics
  • How to use PHA acids step by step?
  • Frequently asked questions about PHA acids
  • Summary - Why PHA is the future of gentle care

What are PHA acids?

PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) are a new generation of acids that exhibit similar effects to AHAs but are significantly gentler. Their larger molecules than AHAs and BHAs allow them to penetrate the skin more slowly and superficially . This means they don't cause intense burning or irritation, while effectively exfoliating and moisturizing.

PHA acids include:

  • gluconolactone - most commonly used in cosmetics,
  • lactobionic acid ,
  • maltobionic acid .

Importantly, PHAs not only exfoliate, but also moisturize and have antioxidant properties , which is why they are effective in the care of dry, sensitive, and even vascular skin.

How do PHA acids work on the skin?

The mechanism of action of PHA combines several effects:

  • Gentle exfoliation - removes dead skin cells, smoothes the skin's surface and restores its fresh appearance.
  • Moisturizing – They act as humectants, binding water to the epidermis. Studies have shown that gluconolactone increases skin hydration by up to 35% after six weeks of use (Buchanan et al., Dermatol Surg , 2005).
  • Antioxidant action - neutralize free radicals, protecting the skin against oxidative stress and photoaging.
  • Strengthening the skin barrier - PHA acids improve the function of the stratum corneum, reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and strengthen protection against external factors.

PHA acids and other acids - how do they differ from AHA and BHA?

The difference lies primarily in the size of the molecule and the intensity of action:

  • AHA acids - have a strong exfoliating effect, work well on discolorations and scars, but can irritate the skin.
  • BHA acids - are fat-soluble, so they penetrate pores perfectly and are effective for acne-prone skin.
  • PHA acids have larger molecules, are gentler, and provide added moisture. They are ideal for those who want a smoothing effect without the risk of irritation.

A clinical study on 50 patients showed that a 12-week treatment with gluconolactone improved skin texture and firmness to a similar extent as glycolic acid, but without side effects such as burning or redness ( Dermatol Surg , 2004).

Gluconolactone - the most popular PHA acid in Orientana cosmetics

Gluconolactone is the most commonly used PHA in cosmetics. It is valued for its versatility:

  • exfoliates dead skin cells,
  • binds water, acting as a humectant,
  • protects against free radicals,
  • strengthens the skin's protective barrier,
  • It is well tolerated even by people with rosacea and atopic dermatitis (AD).

The benefits of using PHA acids in daily care

  • Skin hydration - it has been proven that regular use of PHA increases its hydration level by up to several dozen percent.
  • Wrinkle Reduction - A clinical study (Buchanan et al., 2005) showed a 25% improvement in skin smoothness after 12 weeks of gluconolactone use.
  • Safety of use in summer - PHA acids do not cause strong photosensitivity, so they can be used all year round.
  • Gentle on the skin - no stinging or redness typical of AHA.
  • Support for problematic skin - when used regularly, they reduce the tendency to inflammation and improve the healing of minor lesions.

Orientana cosmetics with PHA acid (gluconolactone)

Orientana was one of the first Polish brands to introduce everyday cosmetics with gluconolactone :

  • A gentle facial cleanser with gluconolactone and dates – gently yet effectively cleanses the skin without damaging the hydrolipid barrier. Contains plant extracts and has a moisturizing effect already during cleansing.
  • Moisturizing tonic essence with gluconolactone combines the functions of a toner and a serum. It supports regeneration, gently exfoliates, and increases skin hydration.
  • Eye and eyelid serum with REISHI and EGF PEPTIDES - combined with EGF and peptides, it reduces wrinkles and lifts the upper eyelid.
  • TrychoLiczi moisturizing shampoo - moisturizes the scalp, soothes it, moisturizes the hair and cleanses it perfectly,
  • TrychoLIczi Hair Length Serum

Application studies conducted on these products have shown that over 90% of users confirmed improved hydration and smoothness of skin and hair after regular use.

Orientana cosmetics with lactobolic acid

We used lactobionic acid as an ingredient in the Soothing and Smoothing Serum . The PHA acid has soothing and moisturizing properties. It reduces redness and irritation.

How to use PHA acids step by step?

  1. Cleansing – use a gentle gel with gluconolactone to prepare the skin for the next steps of care.
  2. Toning - Use a toning lotion with PHA to restore balance and gently support cell renewal.
  3. Serum and cream - choose moisturizing or anti-aging products (e.g. with ceramides, vitamin C, adaptogens).
  4. UV protection - although PHAs are not as photosensitizing as AHAs, it is always worth using an SPF cream during the day.

Frequently Asked Questions (Q&A)

Are PHA acids safe for sensitive skin?
Yes, this is the mildest group of acids, well tolerated even by people with atopic dermatitis or rosacea.

Can PHA acids be used in summer?
Yes, they do not cause strong photosensitivity, but it is always worth using a cream with SPF.

Can PHA acids replace retinol?
No, they work differently – more gently and more moisturizing. However, they can complement anti-aging care.

When will I see the first results?
After just a few days, skin becomes smoother and better moisturized. Visible anti-wrinkle effects are visible after 8–12 weeks.

Can I combine PHA with other acids?
Yes, but it is best to use them alternately - e.g. PHA every day and AHA/BHA 1-2 times a week.

Now you know that:

PHA acids are the future of gentle yet effective skincare. They combine exfoliating, moisturizing, and antioxidant properties, while also being safe for even sensitive skin. They leave you with fresh, smooth, and well-hydrated skin without the risk of irritation.

Orientana cosmetics with gluconolactone and cosmetics with lactobionic acid are examples of how to incorporate PHA into your daily routine. Research confirms their effectiveness, and regular use produces visible results in a short time.

Read also: Sensitive and red skin - why does lactobionic acid work when other acids irritate?

We encourage you to visit our natural cosmetics section, where we comprehensively discuss the philosophy of modern care based on plant ingredients.

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More and more people are investing in advanced serums, peptide creams, and acid treatments, yet they still struggle with burning, tight skin, excessive oiliness, or recurring blemishes. Very often, the cause isn't a "bad cosmetic," but something much more fundamental— imbalanced skin pH . pH is one of the foundations of healthy skin. If it's imbalanced, even the best skincare routine won't work optimally. Skin becomes more permeable, susceptible to irritation, and loses water more quickly. As a result, it begins to "send out alarm signals," which many people mistakenly interpret as a need for stronger cleansing or stronger active ingredients. Unfortunately, this often exacerbates the problem. In this article we will focus not on theoretical definitions (which I discuss here) , but on practice : how to recognize disturbed skin pH, what destroys them most often, what the skin looks like when balance begins to return, and how to rebuild it step by step in daily care. 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Typically, a combination of several symptoms occurs: feeling of tightness right after washing your face, burning or stinging after applying cosmetics, skin that is dry and shiny at the same time, greater tendency to develop blackheads and pimples, periodic redness, flaking or roughness, impaired tolerance of acids and retinoids. If you recognize several of the above points, it's very likely that your skin primarily needs pH stabilization and barrier strengthening , rather than another powerful active ingredient. Why does pH imbalance often “pretend” to be other skin problems? One of the reasons why pH imbalance can be difficult to diagnose is that its symptoms resemble: sensitive skin, acne-prone skin, dry skin, dehydrated skin. In practice, this means that many people are starting to use increasingly stronger cosmetics to address the problem, instead of first rebuilding the foundation . Meanwhile, without a stable pH, even the best serums won't reach their full potential. What most often leads to skin pH disturbances? The most common causes include: washing your face with soap or highly foaming gels, no toning after cleansing, too frequent acid peels, hard and chlorinated water, cosmetics with high alcohol content, stress, lack of sleep, hormonal disorders, a diet rich in simple sugars and highly processed products. It is worth emphasizing that even good cosmetics can stop being beneficial to the skin if they are used in too large quantities or in the wrong order . What does the skin look like when the pH begins to normalize? The first changes are subtle but very characteristic: less feeling of tightness after washing, better hydration without heaviness, less burning after applying cosmetics, calmer, more even complexion, gradually less prone to breakouts. This is a sign that the hydrolipid barrier is beginning to rebuild and the skin is returning to its physiological functioning mode. Restoring pH isn't about a single "miracle" cosmetic. It's a process based on a few simple but consistent steps . With pH imbalances, it's crucial to simultaneously strengthen the skin's protective barrier. You can read more about this in our article on the skin's hydrolipid barrier. 1. Gentle cleansing instead of squeaky clean Your skin shouldn't feel tight or squeaky after washing. This sensation usually means that its natural protective barrier has been breached. A good choice is the Orientana Gentle Face Wash Gel Daktyl + Inulina , which: gently removes impurities, does not disturb the acid-base balance, supports the microbiome thanks to inulin. Regular use of a gentle gel is the first step to stabilizing the pH. 2. Toning – the fastest way to restore pH After each wash, it is worth using a tonic or tonic-essence. The following products are good for Orientan care: Moisturizing tonic-essence with gluconolactone – supports pH, gently exfoliates and moisturizes, Orientana Rose Tonic – soothes, calms and helps maintain the physiological skin reaction. Tonic acts as a “reset” for the skin after contact with water. In your daily routine, it is worth using toners that restore the physiological pH of the skin - see Orientana facial toners. 3. Strengthening the barrier and microbiome Stable pH goes hand in hand with a strong hydrolipid barrier. Reishi Ceramide Serum : supports the reconstruction of the epidermis, strengthens the barrier, helps maintain the proper environment for the microbiome. Yuzu Ceramide Cream Mask: "repairs" the hydrolipid barrier enhances skin hydration strengthens the skin structure Disturbed pH of the body skin - a problem that we often ignore When it comes to pH, we most often talk about the face, but the skin on the body reacts very similarly to acid-base imbalances. 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This is a condition in which the skin's protective acid mantle loses its balance, leading to dryness, hypersensitivity, imperfections and a weakening of the hydrolipid barrier. Most common symptoms: tightness after washing, burning, excessive oiliness, redness, peeling, poorer tolerance of cosmetics. How to restore skin pH? Use gentle cleansing, always use toner, strengthen the hydrolipid barrier and avoid aggressive exfoliation. How quickly can you see improvement? First results after 3–7 days, full stabilization usually within a few weeks. If your skin reacts with burning, tightness, or excessive oiliness, start with the basics. Proper cleansing, toning, and barrier-strengthening products are the easiest way to restore pH balance. Discover Orientana cosmetics that support the physiological pH of the skin and rebuild the protective barrier.

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Ascorbic acid - how does it work on the skin and does it really rejuvenate?

Why Vitamin C is one of the most overrated and underrated ingredients at the same time When I first worked on formulating a cosmetic product with vitamin C, everything seemed perfect in theory: a strong antioxidant, anti-aging effects, skin brightening. A "dream ingredient." In practice?The product changed color after a few weeks. Skin reacted differently. The effects were... not always what the marketing brochures promised. And then I understood something very important: vitamin C is not just one ingredient - it's an entire system of dependencies: form, pH, stability, packaging, and method of application. That's why some say "it works wonders," while others say "it does nothing." This article is about organizing facts - without marketing hype. What is ascorbic acid? Ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid, LAA) is the biologically active form of vitamin C - a water-soluble compound that naturally occurs in the body but is not synthesized by it. 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Because the truth is: 👉 better stability = a greater chance that the ingredient will actually work on the skin, not just in theory Pure ascorbic acid may be "the strongest on paper,"but if it oxidizes after a few weeks — its effectiveness drops to zero. Therefore, increasingly: instead of maximum power → optimal effectiveness over time is chosen instead of "a wow effect at the beginning" → real results with long-term use are built And this is the moment when vitamin C ceases to be overrated —and simply becomes a well-used tool. FAQ Is ascorbic acid vitamin C?Yes, it is its active form. Does vitamin C work on wrinkles?Yes, by stimulating collagen. Can it be used daily?Yes, at the appropriate concentration. Does it work on hyperpigmentation?Yes, it inhibits tyrosinase. Can it be used in summer?Yes, it's even recommended. Morning or evening?Preferably in the morning. How long should it be used?At least several weeks. Is SPF necessary?Yes, it's mandatory. Can it be combined with retinol?Yes, but at different times. Can it be combined with niacinamide?Yes. Is stinging normal?Yes, but it shouldn't be severe. Can it cause allergies?Rarely, but it can irritate. Is it suitable for sensitive skin?Yes, but in lower concentrations. When do you see effects?After 2–4 weeks. Does it give a glow effect?Yes. Does it work on acne?Indirectly. What pH should the serum have?Below 3.5. What concentration is best?10–15%. Can the serum oxidize?Yes. How to recognize a spoiled serum?Change of color. Should it be stored in the refrigerator?You can, but it's not necessary. Is light harmful?Yes. Does it work on dark circles under the eyes?It can help. Can it be used during pregnancy?Yes. Can it be used every morning?Yes. Read also Vitamin C and its effect on the skin

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Jak ujędrnić skórę po ciąży? Plan regeneracji krok po kroku

How to firm skin after pregnancy? A step-by-step regeneration plan

Introduction: The Post-Pregnancy Body – A Natural Change, Not a Flaw Pregnancy is a huge challenge for the skin. Within a few months, the abdomen increases its volume by several dozen percent, tissues stretch, hormonal balance changes, and microcirculation works at a different rhythm. After childbirth, many women notice: flabby skin on the abdomen, loss of firmness on the thighs and buttocks, increased cellulite, "empty," less elastic skin structure. This is not a matter of lack of exercise or "neglect." It's a result of biology. The good news? Skin has the ability to regenerate.However, it needs time, stimulation, and conscious care. Why does skin lose firmness after pregnancy? 1. Stretching of collagen and elastin fibers Collagen is responsible for strength, elastin for elasticity.During pregnancy, these fibers: stretch, lose their original organization, partially suffer microdamage. After childbirth, they do not automatically "return" to their pre-pregnancy state. They need a regenerative stimulus. 2. Drop in estrogen levels Estrogen: stimulates collagen production, increases hydration levels, improves skin density. After childbirth, its level drops sharply, which can result in: greater dryness, thinner skin, reduced elasticity. 3. Changes in microcirculation and lymphatic drainage Water retention, swelling, and lymphatic stagnation intensify: the effect of "wavy" skin, a feeling of heaviness, the visibility of cellulite. Therefore, diet alone is not enough – stimulating circulation is key. Can skin return to its former firmness after pregnancy? Yes, but: not always 100%, not in a week, not without stimulation. Skin needs an average of 2-3 months of regular stimulation to improve its elasticity. For younger women, the process can be faster, but consistency is crucial. Is loose skin after pregnancy cellulite? Not always. Skin looseness is: weakened collagen structure, reduced elasticity, looser tissue. Cellulite is: microcirculation disorder, uneven distribution of fat cells, tissue swelling. Often these two problems coexist – therefore, a regeneration plan must be multi-faceted. How to firm skin after pregnancy? A 5-step plan Step 1 - rebuilding the hydrolipidic barrier Dry skin appears more flabby.A damaged barrier increases TEWL (transepidermal water loss), which deepens the impression of "thin" skin. Regular oiling: improves elasticity, reduces transepidermal water loss, increases comfort. Is oil alone enough? No.Oil improves glide but doesn't always contain ingredients that support microcirculation or fat tissue metabolism. Step 2 - massage as a key element of regeneration Massage is the most important element of the firming plan. It works by: increasing blood flow, improving lymphatic drainage, mechanical stimulation of fibroblasts, improving tissue oxygenation. Regular massage of the abdomen and thighs can significantly improve skin tone. Does massage really firm the skin? Yes, provided it is regular.Mechanical stimulation activates skin cells to work more intensively. Can massage be performed after a C-section? Yes, but only after the scar has fully healed and after consulting a doctor.Initially, the scar area should be avoided. Step 3 - anti-cellulite oil to support massage Massage without product works, but: tires hands faster, can irritate the skin, does not deliver active ingredients. Anti-cellulite oil: improves glide, contains ingredients supporting microcirculation, can help smooth the skin, improves treatment comfort. Important: it is not a "weight loss" product.It supports the regeneration of the skin structure. Does anti-cellulite oil work without massage? It works less effectively.Mechanical movement is key. Step 4 - active ingredients supporting skin tone It's worth looking for: caffeine (supports microcirculation), amino acid complexes, plant extracts that sculpt the silhouette, ingredients that improve elasticity. It's not about "fat burning" but about improving skin quality. Does caffeine really help with cellulite? It can improve microcirculation and temporarily reduce tissue swelling, which translates into smoother skin. If you are interested in caffeine as an ingredient, read How caffeine works in cosmetics and why it is ideal for eye area care Step 5 - muscle strengthening exercises Muscles under the skin provide its support.Strengthening abdominal muscles improves the tone of the entire area. Are exercises enough to firm the skin? Not always.Muscle and skin are different structures.The best results come from combining movement and massage. Read the post about pilates. Does skin regenerate on its own after pregnancy? Partially yes, especially in the first months after childbirth. However, without stimulation: the process may be slower, flabbiness may become permanent, cellulite may be more visible. Can stretch marks be firmed? Stretch marks are micro-damages to the dermis.They won't disappear completely, but: massage improves their elasticity, regular oiling increases skin comfort, improving microcirculation supports regeneration. How long does it take to improve skin firmness after pregnancy? First results: 4-6 weeks of regular massage. More noticeable improvement: 2-3 months of consistency. It's a process, not a quick transformation. Can you firm skin a year after pregnancy? Yes.Skin reacts to stimuli even many months after childbirth.It's never "too late" to improve skin tone. Most common mistakes lack of regularity, too strong a massage at the beginning, expecting immediate results, neglecting hydration and the hydrolipidic barrier, focusing only on fat burning. 8-week skin firming plan after pregnancy Weeks 1-2Gentle massage 3-4 times a week, rebuilding hydration. Weeks 3-4Regular massage 5 times a week, introducing anti-cellulite oil. Weeks 5-8Daily massage + abdominal muscle strengthening exercises. Is firming skin after pregnancy a battle against the body? No.It's caring for a body that has done tremendous work. Skin regeneration is not an attempt to "turn back time," but rather to support its natural processes. What happens to the skin after pregnancy? Biological mechanisms (scientific approach) Collagen - the structural "skeleton" of the skin Type I collagen constitutes about 80-85% of dermal collagen. It is responsible for: mechanical strength, tension, resistance to stretching. During pregnancy, abdominal skin undergoes prolonged stretching. This leads to: disorganization of collagen fibers, decrease in their density, loosening of the support network. After childbirth, collagen does not automatically return to its original structure. The fibers require remodeling, which depends on fibroblast activity. Fibroblasts - cells responsible for rebuilding Fibroblasts are key cells of the dermis. They produce: collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, proteoglycans. Their activity depends on: mechanical stimulation, microcirculation, hormone levels (especially estrogens), presence of growth factors. Lack of stimuli (e.g., massage) means less fibroblast activity.This is why regular mechanical stimulation can support the process of rebuilding skin tone. Can fibroblasts be "stimulated" with home care? Yes - by: massage, improving blood supply, maintaining adequate skin hydration, protecting against oxidative stress. Mechanical stimulation is one of the simplest ways to increase their activity. MMPs - enzymes accelerating collagen degradation Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are enzymes responsible for the breakdown of collagen and elastin. Their activity increases due to: inflammation, oxidative stress, hormonal imbalances, excessive skin stretching. During pregnancy and the postpartum period, there may be a temporary increase in MMP activity, which contributes to the degradation of supporting fibers. If the process of collagen synthesis (by fibroblasts) cannot keep up with its degradation, then: flabbiness, loss of elasticity, greater susceptibility to cellulite. Can MMP activity be inhibited? Not completely with home care.However, one can: support collagen rebuilding, reduce oxidative stress, improve microcirculation, maintain an optimal skin environment. It is a process of balance between degradation and synthesis. Estrogen and skin firmness Estrogen has a significant impact on: fibroblast proliferation, collagen synthesis, skin hydration level, epidermal thickness. After childbirth, its level drops sharply. The result can be: thinner skin, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reduced elasticity. This is why many women after pregnancy notice that their skin is not only loose but also drier. Does a drop in estrogen mean a permanent loss of firmness? No.This is a temporary condition. However, this period requires special skin care support. TEWL - why does dry skin appear more flabby? TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) is the loss of water through the epidermis.The higher the TEWL, the more: the skin is dehydrated, less elastic, more susceptible to micro-cracks, visually thinner. After pregnancy, the hydrolipidic barrier may be weakened.This means that even if the collagen structure regenerates, the skin looks less toned. Does hydration really affect firmness? Yes, though indirectly. Proper oiling and barrier support: reduces TEWL, improves epidermal elasticity, increases skin comfort, makes the surface appear more toned. This is the first stage of regeneration. Microcirculation - an underestimated element of firmness Tissue oxygenation and efficient lymphatic drainage are crucial for: cellular metabolism, removal of metabolic waste products, reduction of swelling. Lymphatic stagnation can exacerbate the visibility of cellulite and deepen the effect of "wavy" skin. Massage: increases blood flow, improves nutrient transport, supports an environment conducive to collagen regeneration. Can improving microcirculation reduce the appearance of cellulite? Yes, especially in combination with regularity and appropriate care.Cellulite is not only fat tissue but also a problem of microcirculation and skin structure. Scientific summary: why does massage make sense? After pregnancy, there is: collagen disorganization, a drop in estrogens, increased MMP activity, increased TEWL, microcirculation disorders. Massage + appropriate care can: improve blood circulation, increase fibroblast activity, support barrier rebuilding, reduce tissue swelling, improve the visual elasticity of the skin. This is not a "miracle transformation."It is a biologically justified stimulation of regeneration. Summary How to firm skin after pregnancy? ✔ rebuild the hydrolipidic barrier✔ regularly massage tissues✔ support microcirculation✔ include exercises✔ arm yourself with patience Firming serum and anti-cellulite oil can be part of this process – as support for massage and improving skin comfort. It's not about perfection.It's about conscious regeneration.

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