Retinoids are natural or synthetic derivatives of vitamin A, showing structural and/or functional similarities to it. Retinol is a long-chain alcohol that is the basic form of vitamin A, the prototype of all other retinoids. DIVISION OF RETINOIDS If we were to arrange retinoids according to their potency, the order would be as follows: retinoic acid > retinaldehyde > retinol > retinol esters > β-carotene After reaching the keratinocyte cell, retinol is oxidized to retinaldehyde (retinaldehyde) by appropriate enzymes, and this is further oxidized to retinoic acid. HOW RETINOL WORKS Retinoids are fat-soluble, which allows them to penetrate the stratum corneum of the epidermis. and to a small extent they penetrate into the dermis. Reaching the keratinocyte cells, they bind with appropriate receptors, then induce transcription of the appropriate genes. Retinoids stimulate the cellular activity of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes. By interacting with receptors inside cells, they promote their proliferation, strengthen the protective functions of the epidermis, limit transepidermal water loss, protect collagen from degradation and inhibit the activity of metalloproteinases responsible for the degradation of the extracellular matrix. WHO ARE RETINOIDS FOR? Retinoids are widely used in cosmetics, being a strong dermatological agent used in acne, psoriasis and other skin diseases and one of the most effective anti-aging raw materials. RETINOL COSMETICS On the market, you can find cosmetics with this ingredient stabilized and without stabilization. To protect retinoids from degradation, microencapsulated raw materials are used, antioxidants or cyclodextrins are added to the formulation, and appropriately selected packaging that protects against light and oxygen. WHAT MAKES RETINOL H10 SPECIAL? It is important to note that retinoids are unstable compounds that are easily degraded and oxidized in contact with air and light. However, RETINOL H10 ( INCI : Hydrogenated Retinol) is unique in this respect! A modified form of retinol with increased stability, resistance to oxidation, light and high temperatures. The study showed that traditional retinol decomposes after just one hour of exposure to sunlight, while hydrogenated retinol did not undergo any minimal loss even after a week. The double bonds in the polyene chain between carbon atoms become saturated – that is, additional hydrogen atoms are attached to them – hence HYDROGENATION, which causes the bonds between carbons to become single. Alkanes are usually not very reactive, which explains the increased stability of RETINOL H10 but also the lower biological activity (another mechanism of action on the skin). ACTION RETINOL H10 stimulates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the dermis and epidermis by activating fibroblasts. This increases the volume of skin tissue, creating a push-up effect that fills wrinkles from the inside. It is worth remembering that it is hyaluronic acid in the skin that acts as a kind of "sponge" that maintains moisture in the skin and is responsible for its firmness and elasticity. As we age, the process of creating hyaluronic acid molecules slows down, contributing to visible changes in the skin. The better the skin is moisturized, the more elastic and resistant to wrinkle formation it is. MILD RETINOL – IS IT POSSIBLE? RETINOL H10 is devoid of irritating properties, characteristic of most retinoids. However, it is worth remembering that it is an active ingredient, so it is worth building tolerance to it, as in the case of classic retinoids. Initially, we recommend using it every 3 days, with time, if there are no irritations, increasing the frequency to every evening. Additionally, to ensure complete safety and improve the results of care, we suggest daily use of creams with a high SPF index. RETINOL H10 can be found in the innovative A DVANCED SKIN LIFT UP SERUM REISHI I RETINOL H10 0.5%