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Kwas hialuronowy - ekspercki przewodnik

Hyaluronic acid - an expert guide

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural polysaccharide, a linear molecule belonging to the glycosaminoglycans, found in skin, joints, and connective tissues. Its molecular weight can range widely, from approximately 10 kDa to over 10 MDa, and this determines its penetration depth and function.

In synovial fluid, HA usually reaches 4-5 MDa, while three basic fractions are used in cosmetics:

  • low molecular weight (< 100 kDa) - reaches deeper, supports regeneration and hydration,
  • medium molecular weight (100–1000 kDa) - acts both superficially and deeper,
  • high molecular weight (< 100 kDa) - creates a protective film and prevents water loss.

One HA molecule can attract up to 1000-4000 times more water than its own weight , which translates into an exceptional ability to retain moisture - 1 gram of HA binds up to 6 liters of water.

The concentration of HA in the skin is approximately 0.5 mg/g wet tissue, but its natural half-life in tissues is short:

  • 24-48 hours in the skin,
  • about a week in synovial fluid,
  • several weeks in the vitreous body of the eye.

This means that the body constantly synthesizes and degrades HA, and its loss is a natural process associated with aging.

Hyaluronic acid degradation - why does it occur and what accelerates it?

HA degradation is a biological process regulated by hyaluronidase enzymes. These enzymes break the β-1,4-glycosidic bonds in the HA molecule, creating smaller fragments that lose their ability to bind water.

In addition to natural degradation, this process can be accelerated by:

UV radiation

It causes the formation of free radicals (ROS), which break down HA and deepen skin dryness and aging.

inflammation

Inflammatory cytokines and free radicals accelerate HA hydrolysis.

abnormal pH, heavy metals, chemical factors

They damage the polysaccharide structure.

improper storage of cosmetics

High temperature promotes HA hydrolysis and reduces the effectiveness of products.

Types of hyaluronic acid used in skincare

Low molecular weight HA (LMW, <100 kDa)

It penetrates deeper and supports regeneration, stimulating fibroblasts to produce their own HA and collagen.

Medium molecular weight HA (MMW, 100–1000 kDa)

Combines surface action with deep moisturizing.

High molecular weight HA (HMW, >1000 kDa)

Creates a film that limits TEWL and instantly smoothes.

Acetylated sodium hyaluronate

A more modern, more stable form of HA with better performance:

  • stronger water binding,
  • greater resistance to degradation,
  • better regeneration of the hydrolipid barrier.

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics - how does it work?

In cosmetology, HA is one of the most important active ingredients. Its effects include:

Deep and long-lasting hydration

Reduces dryness, restores elasticity and softness.

Fibroblast stimulation

It stimulates them to synthesize collagen and elastin.

Regeneration of the epidermis

Supports healing and renewal processes.

Protection against TEWL

HA creates a barrier that limits moisture loss.

Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects

Neutralizes ROS, soothes and reduces redness.

Orientana cosmetics with hyaluronic acid

Moisturizing Serum-ampoule with hyaluronic acid and trehalose

  • Serum Ampoule Moisturizing

HydroTremella Series

  • Tremella and Hyaluronic Acid Face Mask
  • Sebum-regulating cream for combination skin (HA + Tremella + azelaic acid)
  • Brightening and moisturizing serum (Tremella + exosomes + HA + lactic acid)

Boosters

 

Snail Slime Series

  • Snail Slime Face Cream

  • Snail slime eye cream

Hair cosmetics

Hyaluronic acid for the face - what effects does it give?

Intensive hydration

HA acts as a “water magnet”, making the skin smoother and more radiant.

Orientana products ideal for moisturizing:

  • HydroTremella Serum
  • Ampoule with HA and trehalose (Hello Daktyl)
  • HydroTremella Cream
  • Reishi Energizing Booster

Improved firmness and elasticity

HA supports the production of collagen and elastin.

Recommended cosmetics:

  • Reishi Regenerating Booster
  • Reishi Retinol Serum
  • Reishi Night Cream

Smoothing out wrinkles

HA optically fills them and increases skin elasticity.

Orientana products:

  • Reishi Retinol Serum
  • Snail Slime Cream
  • Hello Dactyl night cream

Texture and color balance

Thanks to regeneration and moisture retention.

Recommended:

  • Tremella Serum
  • Reishi Retinol Serum

Protection of the epidermal barrier

HA reduces TEWL and strengthens the protective barrier.

Orientana's best products:

  • HydroTremella Cream
  • Hello Date Cream
  • Regenerating Booster

Eye and lip care

HA increases hydration, elasticity and optical volume.

Recommended:

  • Snail Eye Cream

Read how to choose a hyaluronic acid serum

The use of HA in aesthetic medicine

Hyaluronic acid is the gold standard in aesthetic medicine. It is used in mesotherapy, volumetry, wrinkle filling, hand revitalization, lip sculpting, and in treatments that improve skin elasticity throughout the body. Thanks to its biocompatibility, it is safe and predictable.

Other uses of HA in medicine and pharmacy

HA is used in orthopedics (intra-articular injections), ophthalmology (artificial tears, surgeries), gynecology (moisturizing mucous membranes), dermatology (wound healing), pharmacy (ointments, gels), as well as in joint and skin supplements.

What can hyaluronic acid be combined with?

niacinamide + HA - a great combination

Orientana: Tremella Sebum Regulating Cream , Reishi Energizing Booster

vitamin C + HA

Perfect for brightening your skin in the morning.

retinol + HA

HA minimizes dryness and irritation.
Orientana: Reishi Retinol Serum

How to use hyaluronic acid?

  • every day, morning and evening,
  • after tonic, before serum or cream,

Frequently asked questions about hyaluronic acid

1. What is hyaluronic acid and why is it so important in cosmetics?

Hyaluronic acid is a natural polysaccharide that binds large amounts of water. In cosmetics, hyaluronic acid is responsible for intense hydration, smoothing, and improving skin elasticity.

2. How does hyaluronic acid work on facial skin?

Hyaluronic acid works by binding water in the epidermis, making the skin smoother, softer, and firmer. It's a key ingredient in moisturizing cosmetics.

3. What properties does hyaluronic acid have in skincare?

The properties of hyaluronic acid include moisturizing, improving the hydrolipid barrier, reducing fine lines, smoothing and protecting against water loss.

4. What types of hyaluronic acid are there in cosmetics?

In cosmetics, low-molecular-weight, medium-molecular-weight, and high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid are used. Each has a different effect, from deep hydration to forming a protective film on the skin.

5. Which hyaluronic acid is best for the face?

The best effect is achieved by combining HA with different molecular weights – it provides immediate surface hydration and long-lasting action in the deeper layers of the skin.

6. Does hyaluronic acid really moisturize the skin?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid binds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it one of the most powerful moisturizing ingredients in cosmetics.

7. Is hyaluronic acid good for wrinkles?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid smooths wrinkles by increasing skin's moisture levels and elasticity, making lines less visible.

8. Can hyaluronic acid be used daily?

Hyaluronic acid is suitable for daily use, both morning and night. Regular use increases hydration and improves skin condition.

9. Does hyaluronic acid clog pores?

No. Hyaluronic acid is light, non-comedogenic, and well-tolerated by all skin types, including oily and acne-prone skin.

10. How to use hyaluronic acid to make it work best?

It is best to apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin and then secure it with a cream, which increases the moisturizing effect.

11. Can hyaluronic acid be combined with retinol?

Yes. The combination of hyaluronic acid and retinol produces excellent results – HA soothes irritations and improves skin hydration during treatment.

12. Can hyaluronic acid be combined with vitamin C?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C complement each other: one moisturizes, the other brightens and evens out skin tone.

13. Is hyaluronic acid suitable for oily skin?

Absolutely. Hyaluronic acid regulates the moisture levels of oily skin without weighing it down and can reduce the feeling of tightness after cleansing.

14. Why is hyaluronic acid so popular in moisturizing cosmetics?

Because hyaluronic acid immediately binds water, gives a "plump skin" effect, smoothes, improves elasticity and is also safe for sensitive skin.

15. What cosmetics with hyaluronic acid are worth using?

The most frequently chosen products are serums with hyaluronic acid, moisturizing creams, tonic essences, masks and light facial boosters.

16. Can hyaluronic acid dry out the skin?

Hyaluronic acid itself doesn't dry out the skin. However, it can feel tight if applied to dry skin without a cream, so always protect the HA layer.

17. Does hyaluronic acid help with discoloration?

Indirectly, yes – hyaluronic acid does not lighten discolorations, but it improves skin hydration and regeneration, which enhances the effects of ingredients such as vitamin C or niacinamide.

18. Does hyaluronic acid have anti-aging properties?

Yes, hyaluronic acid has an anti-aging effect because moisturized skin loses elasticity more slowly and looks younger.

19. Can hyaluronic acid be used under makeup?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid creates a smooth, moisturized base for makeup, prevents dry skin, and improves foundation durability.

20. Is hyaluronic acid safe for pregnant women?

Yes. Hyaluronic acid is a physiological ingredient and is considered completely safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

21. Is hyaluronic acid safe?

Yes, it's a natural component of the skin and is highly tolerated. It rarely causes allergies.

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