Modern cosmetology increasingly draws on the achievements of natural medicine and phytotherapy. One of the more promising directions of research are adaptogens - substances of plant origin that help the body adapt to stressors. In the context of skin care, adaptogens have gained importance as ingredients that reduce the effects of oxidative and inflammatory stress, counteract premature aging and support the natural protective barrier of the epidermis.
What are adaptogens?
Adaptogens are active substances isolated from plants that have the ability to modulate the body's response to stress and restore homeostasis. This term was first used by N. V. Lazarev in the 1940s. According to the WHO definition, an adaptogen should meet three criteria: show a non-specific normalizing effect, be non-toxic, and enhance resistance to physical, chemical, and biological stress (Panossian & Wikman, 2010).
The name adaptogen comes from the Latin word adaptare , meaning "to adapt," and the Greek suffix -gen , meaning "causing" or "inducing." The term was introduced in the mid-20th century by Soviet toxicologist and pharmacologist Nikolai Lazarev.
In 1947, Lazarev proposed the term "adaptogen" to describe substances that increase the nonspecific resistance of the organism to stress and help restore homeostasis, regardless of the type of stressors (physical, chemical, or biological). Later, his research was continued by his students, especially Israel Brekhman and Ilya Dardymov, who specified the criteria for adaptogens.
The most popular adaptogens used in cosmetics
Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) is a plant used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine. It contains withanolides, alkaloids and flavonoids, which have strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effects. In vitro studies have shown that ashwagandha extracts improve fibroblast proliferation and accelerate the regeneration of damaged epidermis (Mishra et al., 2000).
Rhodiola rosea , native to cold regions of Europe and Asia, contains rosavin and salidroside, which stabilize cortisol levels and protect cells from oxidative stress. In a dermatological context, it has the ability to improve cell metabolism and protect against UV radiation, as confirmed by a study conducted by De Sanctis et al. (2012).
Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) is a mushroom with a long tradition of use in Chinese medicine. Rich in polysaccharides, triterpenoids and peptides, Reishi has anti-inflammatory, immunostimulating and antioxidant effects. In skin care, it supports healing, reduces redness and protects against external factors (Wachtel-Galor et al., 2011).
Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) , also known as Holy Basil, is characterized by the content of eugenol, ursolic acid and anthocyanins. It has proven antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties. Tulsi extracts reduce sebum secretion, support the treatment of acne lesions and protect skin cells from oxidative stress (Mondal et al., 2009).
Ginseng (Panax ginseng) contains ginsenosides, which improve microcirculation, support cell renewal processes and stimulate collagen synthesis. Studies have shown that ginseng can counteract discoloration and increase skin elasticity, making it firmer and more radiant (Shin et al., 2017).
Gotu Kola (Asian Pennywort)
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is an adaptogenic plant with multidirectional biological effects, valued in both traditional medicine and modern cosmetology. In the context of hair care, its effects are mainly due to the presence of triterpenes (such as asiaticoside, madecassoside) and flavonoids.
Gotu kola improves microcirculation in the scalp, which facilitates oxygenation and nourishment of hair follicles. Thanks to this, it supports the activation of the anagen phase (hair growth), which can help to stop excessive hair loss and stimulate its growth.
Centella asiatica extract has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which helps reduce scalp irritation and supports the regeneration of the epidermis, especially in cases of inflammation or dandruff.
Skin and stress - here you need adaptogens
The skin, as an organ in direct contact with the external environment, is particularly vulnerable to the effects of stress. Both physical and mental stress lead to overproduction of cortisol, which disrupts the functioning of the epidermal barrier and intensifies inflammatory processes. Chronic oxidative stress results in the accumulation of free radicals, which leads to damage to cellular structures, including lipid membranes, proteins and DNA, contributing to premature skin aging (Pillai et al., 2005).
Oxidative stress plays a key role in skin aging and in the development of many dermatological conditions. It occurs when the balance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the body's ability to neutralize them through antioxidant systems is disturbed.
Oxidative stress leads to excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which damage basic cellular structures such as lipid membranes, proteins, and DNA. In the skin, this results in the degradation of collagen and elastin – the main proteins responsible for skin firmness, elasticity, and youthful appearance. Over time, this leads to loss of elasticity, wrinkle formation, and skin laxity. This process is one of the main mechanisms of skin aging, both endogenous (internal) and exogenous, related to, for example, exposure to UV radiation.
Reactive oxygen species also damage epidermal lipids, which are crucial for maintaining a tight and functional skin barrier. Their degradation results in increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which leads to skin dryness, susceptibility to irritation and increased reactivity to external factors. The skin becomes more sensitive, less resistant to allergens, pathogens or irritating cosmetic ingredients.
Oxidative stress plays an important role in the activation of the inflammatory response in the skin. ROS activate transcription factors such as NF-κB, leading to increased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (e.g. IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α). This chronic inflammation may contribute to the development of dermatological diseases such as acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and rosacea. Moreover, inflammation further increases oxidative stress, creating a vicious cycle leading to further damage.
Reactive oxygen species also affect the functioning of melanocytes – cells responsible for the production of melanin. Excessive melanogenesis, induced by oxidative stress, can lead to the formation of discolorations, such as sun spots or melasma. In turn, damage to melanocytes can result in hypopigmentation, and in extreme cases lead to diseases such as vitiligo.
Oxidative stress negatively affects skin cell proliferation and differentiation, which translates into slower epidermal renewal and impaired wound healing processes. Weakened cells have less ability to repair damage, which can lead to chronic inflammation, infections and permanent structural changes in the skin.
The effect of adaptogens on the skin
Although adaptogens have traditionally been used mainly in the context of improving immunity, physical and mental performance, more and more research indicates their significant effect in skin care – both in terms of protection and regeneration.
Adaptogens have a multifaceted protective effect on skin cells. First of all, they reduce the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-6 and TNF-α, and regulate the activity of the HPA axis (hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis), which translates into improved inflammation and skin barrier function (Panossian et al., 2010).
In addition, the abundance of antioxidants contained in adaptogens allows for effective combating of free radicals and protection of cells from oxidative stress. Studies show that adaptogens stimulate the expression of collagen types I and III, which leads to improved skin elasticity and firmness (Lee et al., 2019).
One of the key mechanisms of action of adaptogens in the skin is their ability to neutralize free radicals. These compounds, such as polysaccharides, phenols and saponins, have strong antioxidant properties. Thanks to this, they protect skin cells from oxidative stress caused by UV radiation, environmental pollution and other stress factors. Adaptogens such as ginseng (Panax ginseng) , ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) or Rhodiola rosea (Rhodiola rosea) have the ability to reduce lipid peroxidation and stabilize cell membranes, which translates into delayed skin aging processes.
Some adaptogens support the synthesis of ceramides and epidermal lipids, which influences the reconstruction of the skin's hydrolipid layer. An example is reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) - an adaptogenic mushroom rich in polysaccharides and triterpenes - which improves skin hydration and accelerates the regeneration of damaged epidermis. Regular use of adaptogen extracts can result in improved skin elasticity, reduced dryness and increased resistance to external factors.
Stress and inflammation are closely linked. Adaptogens modulate the skin's inflammatory response by inhibiting the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines and enzymes such as COX-2 and TNF-α. This makes them particularly useful in the care of sensitive, reactive skin and skin affected by inflammation - e.g. acne, atopic dermatitis or eczema. Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is known for its healing, anti-inflammatory and collagen-stimulating properties, making it a popular ingredient in dermocosmetics.
Adaptogens affect the activity of fibroblasts and keratinocytes, stimulating regenerative processes and the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and elastin. As a result, they improve the structure of the skin, support its density and reduce the visibility of wrinkles. Adaptogens such as schisandra chinensis or eleutherococcus senticosus have elasticizing, revitalizing and protective properties, which is why they are increasingly included in anti-aging cosmetics recipes.
Modern skin is exposed not only to classic stressors, but also to blue light (HEV) emitted by electronic device screens. Adaptogens, thanks to their antioxidant and protective properties, can act as natural "biological shields", reducing the effects of environmental stress and slowing down the processes of cellular damage induced by modern civilization threats.
Who are adaptogens particularly recommended for?
Adaptogens in skin care are especially effective for people exposed to chronic stress, tired, with dehydrated, flabby or sensitive skin. Due to their normalizing and regenerating effects, they are also recommended for people with dermatological problems such as acne, atopic dermatitis or eczema.
Adaptogens are a valuable tool in modern skin care, offering support in combating the negative effects of stress and aging. Their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and regenerative effects make them an effective and safe solution for a variety of skin needs. Integrating adaptogens into your daily skin care routine can bring tangible benefits, both aesthetic and health-related.
Have you heard of adaptogens? It sounds complicated, but they are nothing more than unique plants with extraordinary effects on the human body confirmed by numerous scientific studies. In short, it is simply a plant that has a normalizing effect on the body's functions without causing any side effects. In even simpler terms, it restores the body to its natural balance. The key property of all adaptogens is to reduce the effects of stress and adapt the body to unfavorable external conditions.
IN WHAT OTHER FORM AND WHERE DO THEY APPEAR?
Adaptogens can be taken in the form of capsules, teas or drops. They are also increasingly common in natural cosmetics, having a sensational effect on the skin. So what do they do for it? They strengthen and stimulate cell renewal, improve the skin's ability to defend itself and significantly increase its immunity. They support the natural functions of the skin thanks to the active substances, vitamins, minerals and amino acids contained in them.
Each adaptogen prevents the negative effects of free radicals, improves the skin's use of oxygen, normalizes, tones and calms the complexion and calms inflammation. Additionally, thanks to the active substances contained, it can work in a unique way on a specific problem. If your complexion is healthy, firm, full of glow and you have no problems with it, a cream with adaptogens will help you maintain this condition. It is simply worth using! The benefits speak for themselves.
Of course! Here is an example text on adaptogens in supplement form, divided into paragraphs:
How do adaptogens work in supplements?
Adaptogens have a normalizing effect – they regulate the body's response to stress without overstimulating or calming it down. They support the nervous, hormonal and immune systems. In the form of supplements, their effects can be targeted at specific needs – improving concentration, reducing fatigue, supporting sleep or increasing physical endurance.
The most common adaptogens include: ashwagandha (Withania somnifera), ginseng (Panax ginseng), rhodiola (Rhodiola rosea), gotu kola (Centella asiatica), and reishi (Ganoderma lucidum). Each of them has slightly different properties, which is why supplements often contain blends of plants in appropriately selected proportions to work synergistically.
Adaptogen supplements are usually well tolerated, but like any form of support, they should be used consciously. It is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and consult a doctor or pharmacist, especially for people taking medications or those with chronic diseases.
Adaptogens in the form of supplements are a convenient and effective form of natural support for the body in the face of everyday challenges. Regularly used, they can contribute to improved well-being, resistance to stress and the overall condition of the body. Their growing popularity is confirmed by both the traditions of Eastern medicine and modern scientific research.
Bibliography
- Panossian, A., & Wikman, G. (2010). Effects of adaptogens on the central nervous system and the molecular mechanisms associated with their stress-protective activity. Pharmaceuticals , 3(1), 188-224.
- Slominski, A. T., et al. (2013). Stress and the skin: from epidemiology to molecular biology. Journal of Investigative Dermatology , 133(5), 975-984.
- Pillai, S., Oresajo, C., & Hayward, J. (2005). Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science , 27(1), 17-34.
- Lee, H. E., et al. (2019). Anti-aging effects of ginsenoside Rg3 on skin via upregulation of collagen synthesis. Journal of Ginseng Research , 43(3), 394-400.
- Ishaque, S., Shamseer, L., Bukutu, C., & Vohra, S. (2012). Rhodiola rosea for physical and mental fatigue: a systematic review. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine , 12, 70.
- Mishra, L. C., Singh, B. B., & Dagenais, S. (2000). Scientific basis for the therapeutic use of Withania somnifera (ashwagandha): a review. Alternative Medicine Review , 5(4), 334-346.
- De Sanctis, R., et al. (2012). New biological aspects of Rhodiola rosea. Journal of Medicinal Plants Research , 6(4), 534-539.
- Wachtel-Galor, S., & Benzie, I. F. (2011). Ganoderma lucidum (Lingzhi or Reishi). In Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects . CRC Press.
- Mondal, S., et al. (2009). Scientific basis for the therapeutic use of Ocimum sanctum (Tulsi) in medicine. Indian Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology , 53(4), 291-306.
- Shin, S. M., et al. (2017). Ginsenoside Re suppresses UVB-induced melanogenesis in human melanocytes and a human skin equivalent model. Journal of Ginseng Research , 41(4), 450-456.
- Donovan, S. M., et al. (2021). Oral supplementation with adaptogens improves skin hydration and elasticity: a randomized controlled trial. Dermatologic Therapy , 34(1), e14630.
