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Tremella cosmetics – natural hydration and anti-aging straight from the snow mushroom
What are Tremella cosmetics?
Tremella cosmetics are skincare products containing extracts from the Tremella fuciformis mushroom, also known as "snow mushroom" or "white ear mushroom." This natural ingredient is gaining increasing popularity in cosmetology, primarily due to its moisturizing, anti-aging, and skin regeneration properties. Tremella, used in traditional Chinese medicine for over a thousand years, has only recently been more widely studied and utilized in modern cosmetic formulas. Thanks to its unique polysaccharide structure, it works similarly to hyaluronic acid, and in some cases, even more effectively.
The Chemical Composition of Tremella and Its Effect on the Skin
All the bioactive ingredients of Tremella fuciformis and their effects on the skin
- Tremella Polysaccharides
Hygroscopic polysaccharides with a hydrogel structure
- Action: Intensively moisturizes, creates a protective film on the skin surface, binds water in the epidermis and improves its elasticity.
- Fun fact: Tremella polysaccharide molecules are smaller than HA, which allows them to penetrate the skin better.
- Study: Wen et al. (2015) – reduced wrinkles, improved skin elasticity¹.
- Ergosterol (provitamin D2)
A lipid compound present in the cell membranes of Tremella
- Action: Antioxidant, supports regeneration, protects cell DNA from UV damage.
- Application: Protective products (e.g. against HEV/UV), regenerative creams, antioxidant serums.
- Potential: May increase vitamin D2 synthesis in the skin – supports barrier and immune function.
- Triterpenes
Terpene compounds with a tricyclic structure
- Action: Anti-inflammatory, regenerative, immunostimulating.
- Mechanism: Inhibits inflammatory cytokines, protects keratinocytes and fibroblasts from environmental stress.
- Application: SOS creams, soothing balms, post-treatment cosmetics.
- Bioactive proteins
Hydrophilic peptides and enzymes
- Action: Support tissue repair, increase skin firmness, and improve its tone.
- Properties: Some of them may act as natural antioxidant enzymes (e.g. peroxidases).
- Application: Lifting serum, anti-aging ampoules, firming creams.
- Beta-glucans
Polysaccharides with immunostimulating properties
- Action: Soothes, strengthens skin immunity, supports the healing of micro-injuries.
- Additional benefits: Enhances the action of probiotics and supports the skin microbiome.
- Research: Confirmed effectiveness in treating inflammation and improving epidermal regeneration².
- Mannitol
A natural sugar alcohol present in the fruiting bodies of Tremella
- Action: Strong antioxidant, reduces oxidative stress, has an osmotic effect (helps retain water).
- Application: Anti-smog products, tonics and mists for dehydrated skin.
- Additionally: It can stabilize other ingredients in the cosmetic formula (e.g. vitamin C).
- Organic acids (e.g. glucuronic acid, gluconic acid)
Natural metabolites of polysaccharide pathways
- Action: Gently exfoliates, supports cell renewal, strengthens the skin barrier.
- Application: Essences, brightening creams, products for gray and tired skin.
- Amino acids
Protein building blocks, present in extracts as free amino acids
- Action: Nourishes the skin, supports collagen production, improves elasticity.
- Meaning: Amino acids such as proline, glycine, and hydroxyproline are key components of collagen.
- Application: Anti-aging and regenerating cosmetics.
- Antioxidant enzymes (natural)
E.g. superoxidase, catalase peroxidase – present in fermented extracts
- Action: They neutralize free oxygen radicals (ROS), inhibit lipid oxidation in cell membranes.
- Application: Protection against oxidative aging, oxidative stress of urban skin.
- Note: These enzymes are unstable at high temperatures, so it is best to use them in formulas such as serums or masks.
- Vitamin B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin), B5 (pantothenic acid)
Present in Tremella in trace amounts, but they have an effect supporting cellular metabolism
- Action: Improves tissue oxygenation, has an energizing effect, soothes irritations.
- Application: Energizing boosters for tired and dehydrated skin.
- Natural minerals (e.g. calcium, potassium, phosphorus)
Cell wall components and metabolites of Tremella
- Action: Regulates water and electrolyte balance, supports skin balance and its pH.
- Meaning: Support the functioning of the epidermal barrier – especially calcium and magnesium.
- Application: Creams that balance and rebuild the skin barrier.
Summary The Tremella fuciformis mushroom is more than just a source of polysaccharides. Its rich phytochemical composition also includes antioxidants, amino acids, natural B vitamins, organic acids, and beta-glucans. This allows Tremella cosmetics to simultaneously: ✔ moisturize, ✔ protect against aging, ✔ support the microbiome, ✔ brighten the complexion, and ✔ soothe inflammation. It's a true multifunctional ingredient for the 21st century—ideal for conscious consumers seeking effective and natural formulas. Top of form Bottom of form A study by Wen et al. (2015) demonstrated that Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides significantly inhibit UVB-induced skin photoaging by reducing MMP-1 levels and increasing type I collagen production.¹ Tremella and hyaluronic acid—a natural alternative? The effects of Tremella are often compared to hyaluronic acid. In vitro tests have shown that Tremella polysaccharide molecules are smaller , allowing them to penetrate deeper into the skin and bind more water molecules. A study by Jeong et al. (2016)² showed that emulsions with Tremella fuciformis increased epidermal hydration more than emulsions containing a similar concentration of HA. In practice, this means that Tremella cosmetics may be more effective in maintaining long-term skin hydration. Benefits of using Tremella cosmetics
- Deep hydration
Tremella polysaccharides create a hydrophilic film on the skin that retains water in the epidermis. This acts as a "natural water barrier" that helps maintain skin elasticity, even in dry environments.
- Anti-aging effect
By neutralizing free radicals and stimulating fibroblasts to synthesize collagen, Tremella cosmetics delay the aging process. Studies on UVB-dependent skin models have demonstrated a reduction in wrinkles and improved skin density.¹
- Relieving inflammation
The presence of beta-glucans and natural antioxidants allows Tremella to soothe redness and irritation and support the regeneration of the hydrolipid barrier. This ingredient is especially recommended for sensitive and couperose-prone skin.
- Brightening and evening out skin tone
In traditional Chinese medicine, Tremella was used by women to brighten their complexion. Modern research confirms that the polysaccharides of this mushroom have a beneficial effect on skin microcirculation, giving skin a healthy, radiant appearance. Who are Tremella cosmetics for? Tremella cosmetics are recommended for:
- Dry and dehydrated skin – as a source of intense hydration,
- Mature skin – to improve firmness and smooth wrinkles,
- Sensitive and reactive skin – thanks to its soothing effect,
- Combination skin – Tremella regulates moisture levels without weighing down pores.
Tremella Cosmetics in Practice – What Forms and Products? The most common forms of Tremella cosmetics are:
- Serum – concentrated doses of polysaccharides,
- Creams – long-lasting hydration and protection,
- Cream masks – instant hydration
- Essences and tonics – supporting the hydrolipid barrier and preparing the skin for further care.
The Science Behind Tremella – Key Research
- Wen et al. (2015), "Effect of polysaccharides from Tremella fuciformis on UV-induced photoaging" → Results: reduced oxidative stress, wrinkle reduction, and increased collagen synthesis. DOI: 10.1016/j.jff.2015.11.014
- Jeong et al. (2016), "Moisturizing and antioxidant effects of Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide extract" → Results: higher skin hydration level than in the hyaluronic acid group.
- Han et al. (2020), "Skin protective effect of Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide against blue light" → Results: Tremella protects against HEV light-induced oxidative stress and improves epidermal barrier function.
Tremella Cosmetics and 2026 Trends – Why Now? According to the In-Cosmetics Global 2025 report, some of the most important trends for 2026 are:
- “Next-gen natural actives” – natural ingredients with confirmed biological effects,
- Biotech ingredients – Tremella is often grown using fermentation, which is in line with the sustainable development trend,
- “Skinimalism” Ingredients – Tremella as a multifunctional ingredient is ideal for simplified but effective care.
Summary: Why Tremella cosmetics are worth trying? Tremella cosmetics are not a passing trend, but a scientifically proven response to the needs of modern skin. Thanks to polysaccharides with strong hygroscopic properties, snow fungus acts like plant-based hyaluronic acid – with the added benefits of antioxidants and anti-aging properties. For tired, dry skin with visible signs of aging, Tremella can be a breakthrough ingredient that will restore radiance, firmness, and comfort. Scientific sources:
- Wen L. et al. (2015). Effect of polysaccharides from Tremella fuciformis on UV-induced photoaging . Journal of Functional Foods, 19, 500–509. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jff.2015.11.014
- Jeong H et al. (2016). Evaluation of moisturizing effects of Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide extract compared to hyaluronic acid . Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology.
- Han S. Y. et al. (2020). Protective effects of Tremella fuciformis against blue light-induced skin aging . International Journal of Cosmetic Science.