Ashwagandha - what is it and how does it work in cosmetics?
Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera), often called "Indian ginseng", is a plant with a long history of use in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. It is valued primarily for its adaptogenic effects - it helps the body adapt to stress, strengthens immunity and improves overall physical and mental condition. Its roots and leaves contain valuable bioactive compounds that are responsible for the wide spectrum of this plant's effects.
In recent years, Ashwagandha has gained a lot of interest outside of natural medicine, including in the cosmetics industry. In the context of skin and hair care, this plant has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and protective effects, making it a valuable ingredient in modern cosmetic preparations.
What are the properties of this adaptogen and its use in cosmetology and dermatology?
Ashwagandha - what is it
Ashwagandha (also known as Withania somnifera) is a perennial shrub from the nightshade family (Solanaceae). This plant is classified as an adaptogen , a group of plant substances that support the body's adaptation to adverse stress factors and maintain homeostasis in the face of physical and mental stress. In other words, adaptogens increase the body's nonspecific resistance to stress, normalizing physiological functions regardless of the direction of the changes caused. Withania somnifera meets these criteria - studies have shown that its use can, among other things, lower cortisol levels and alleviate anxiety, which confirms its adaptogenic effect . Thanks to such properties, it is sometimes referred to as a natural agent that increases the body's immune system to stress loads and improves overall mental and physical condition.
History and origin
Indian ginseng is a plant native to India and neighboring regions of South Asia, as well as parts of the Middle East . It occurs naturally primarily in dry subtropical and tropical regions. It is now cultivated in many other parts of the world with a similar climate.
This plant has occupied an important place in traditional Indian medicine for centuries , primarily in the Ayurvedic system. Historical records indicate that the effects of ashwagandha were known about 3,000 years ago, and ashwagandha root was used in India as one of the main rejuvenating and strengthening agents of the body, the so-called rasayana . Ayurveda has a holistic approach to ashwagandha. It considers it a tonic that adds vitality, improves resistance to anxiety factors and supports the nervous system. The name "ashwagandha" comes from Sanskrit and means "horse's scent", which refers to the characteristic smell of the fresh root and the belief that taking it adds "horse" strength and energy. In addition to its uses in India, withania somnifera was also traditionally used in folk medicine in other regions - where it was attributed with a calming effect, was believed to improve the quality of sleep and generally strengthen the immune system.
Chemical composition and main active compounds
Indian ginseng is characterized by a rich phytochemical composition , including numerous secondary plant metabolites of diverse structure. The most important active compounds of withania include withanolides and steroid alkaloids (John, 2014). The former (from the genus name Withania) are a group of steroid lactones with an ergostane skeleton unique to this species. Several dozen withanolides have been identified in its root, the most famous of which is withaferin A – a compound exhibiting, among others, inflammation-reducing and anticancer effects. Others are marked with letters of the alphabet (e.g. withanolides A–Y) or proper names (e.g. withanon, somniferol), and many of them correspond to the adaptogenic and immunomodulatory properties of the plant. The alkaloids present in the root of Withania somnifera include, among others: withanine and somniferine , as well as compounds such as isopelleteryne , anaferine , cuscohygrine and choline (John, 2014). Although they occur in smaller quantities than withanolides , they also contribute to the pharmacological activity of the raw material.
The content of withanolides and alkaloids is supported by a number of other bioactive ingredients. These include flavonoids (e.g. derivatives of kaempferol and quercetin), which have antioxidant activity, as well as steroid saponins - such as sitoindoside VII and VIII - with potential inhibition of inflammatory processes. The plant has also been found to contain withanolide glycosides (so-called glycowithanolides ), e.g. sitoindosides IX and X, which are derivatives of withanolides conjugated with a sugar molecule. Some sources also provide small amounts of coumarins , of which scopoletin was distinguished (Dutta et al., 2019) - a compound with sedative and antioxidant activity. The chemical profile is complemented by phytosterols (e.g. beta-sitosterol), phenolic acids (e.g. chlorogenic acid), and basic metabolites such as carbohydrates and unsaturated fatty acids. Such a rich phytochemical composition gives ashwagandha a pharmacological effect, confirmed in numerous scientific studies.
Withania somnifera has an adaptogenic effect with a long history of use in traditional medicine. It comes from India and surrounding regions, from where its use has also spread to other areas of Asia and Africa. The root of this adaptogen is a rich source of unique active compounds – withanolides and alkaloids – which are attributed with anti-stress, neuroprotective, immunomodulatory and many other properties. Thanks to this, withania somnifera has been called “Indian ginseng” and is the subject of intensive scientific research aimed at confirming its effectiveness and safety in the context of modern phytotherapy.
Health benefits of ashwagandha
Ashwagandha has a biological effect that has been used for centuries in traditional medicine systems, and is currently being confirmed in numerous pharmacological and clinical studies. The wealth of active compounds, especially withanolides, alkaloids and steroid saponins, translates into its multifaceted effect on human health.
Reduction of inflammation and antioxidant effect
One of the key mechanisms of action of ashwagandha is its influence on inflammatory processes and the action of oxidative stress . Substances present in the plant, such as withaferin A, have the ability to inhibit proinflammatory mediators , which leads to a decrease in the level of proinflammatory cytokines. Thanks to this, ashwagandha has an immunomodulating effect and alleviates the inflammatory response in various disease states, including autoimmune and chronic ones.
At the same time, ashwagandha has strong antioxidant properties , protecting cells from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Compounds present in ashwagandha root stimulate the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT) and glutathione peroxidase (GPx). Thanks to this, this adaptogen can support the body in maintaining the integrity of cellular structures and counteract premature tissue aging.
Impact on the nervous and immune systems
Indian ginseng has long been recognized as a supporting agent for the proper functioning of the central nervous system . Preclinical and clinical studies have shown that extracts from the root of this plant have calming, neuroprotective and anxiolytic effects . These mechanisms are related to the regulation of neurotransmitter levels (e.g. GABA, serotonin), as well as the ability to lower cortisol levels. Ashwagandha may also improve cognitive abilities , such as memory and concentration, as confirmed by studies involving adults with chronic anxiety.
At the same time, as an adaptogen, it influences the modulation of the immune response by stimulating the activity of T lymphocytes, increasing the number of NK (natural killer) cells and raising the level of immunoglobulins. These properties make this plant useful as an agent supporting immunity , both in the prevention of infections and in states of weakened organism.
Application in disease therapy
Ashwagandha has an effect that translates into its potential therapeutic use in numerous disease entities. Numerous studies suggest the effectiveness of extracts from this plant in relieving symptoms of depression and anxiety , as well as support in the treatment of schizophrenia - through mood stabilizing action and supporting the work of neurotransmitters. Preparations containing this adaptogen have a wide effect on mental health and are often taken to reduce stress.
Thanks to the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects of ashwagandha, it is also used in the treatment of inflammatory diseases, such as rheumatoid arthritis or other forms of rheumatism . In turn, in dermatology and cosmetology, this plant is sometimes used as a supporting agent in the treatment of skin diseases , including autoimmune changes and those related to chronic anxiety.
When it comes to the dosage and taking of this adaptogen preparation, despite its full availability without a prescription, it should be discussed with a doctor because even natural preparations may interact, for example, with the action of medications.
Ashwagandha what is this cosmetic ingredient?
What are the benefits of using ashwagandha on the skin? It is gaining popularity in cosmetology due to its versatile properties, which have a beneficial effect on the skin. Numerous scientific studies confirm its effectiveness in terms of regeneration, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and supporting the skin's protective barrier.
Ashwagandha and Antioxidant Skin Stress
Oxidative stress in the skin is the result of an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the ability of antioxidant systems to neutralize them. Excess free radicals contribute to the damage of lipids, proteins and cellular DNA, which results in accelerated skin aging, deterioration of its elasticity, as well as increased inflammation and increased sensitivity to external factors (Poljšak et al., 2012).
This plant has antioxidant activity , which makes it a promising ingredient in anti-aging and protective cosmetology. Its main active compounds, such as withanolides , flavonoids and alkaloids , have the ability to neutralize free radicals and increase the activity of endogenous enzymes responsible for oxidative detoxification, such as catalase (CAT) , superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GPx) (Bhattacharya et al., 2001).
In vitro studies have shown that ashwagandha root extract reduces ROS levels in human keratinocytes by about 40% after 24 hours of exposure to UVB-induced oxidative stress (Dutta et al., 2019). Additionally, oral ashwagandha supplementation in a study of 60 subjects resulted in a 36% increase in plasma SOD activity and a 23% reduction in lipid peroxidation markers (TBARS) after 8 weeks of treatment (Auddy et al., 2008).
At the skin level, the adaptogen also has a protective effect by inhibiting the activity of metalloproteinases (e.g. MMP-1), enzymes that degrade collagen and elastin as a result of free radicals. This phenomenon directly contributes to delaying the skin's aging processes and improving its overall condition.
Regeneration and rejuvenation
Ashwagandha extracts have the ability to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, a key protein responsible for skin elasticity and firmness. In vitro studies have shown that the use of ashwagandha root extract increases the production of procollagen type I by 45% after 72 hours of application. In addition, in a clinical study involving 60 women aged 35–55, the use of a cream containing 0.5% ashwagandha extract for 12 weeks resulted in a 20% improvement in skin elasticity and a 15% reduction in wrinkles.
Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects
The withanolides present in the adaptogen exhibit strong anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α). In animal studies, a 30% reduction in skin swelling was observed after topical application of ashwagandha extract. Additionally, its antioxidant properties protect skin cells by reducing the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by 40% in laboratory studies.
Moisturizing and protecting the skin barrier
Indian ginseng supports the lipid barrier function of the epidermis, which is crucial for maintaining proper skin hydration. In a randomized study of 50 people with dry skin, using an emulsion containing 1% ashwagandha extract for 8 weeks increased skin hydration by 25% and improved skin barrier integrity, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 18%.
Use in Orientana Cosmetics
We have used the adaptogenic action of the ashwagandha in the Ashwagandha Series, where it is a basic ingredient. In the series you will find the Ashwagandha Nourishment Face Cream and four face serum-ampoules.
The nourishing cream contains not only the key adaptogen of this series, but also as many as 9 botanical oils as active ingredients.
The cream intensively nourishes, moisturizes and regenerates the skin, restoring its comfort and elasticity. The rich formula based on natural emollients and plant butters strengthens the hydrolipid barrier, protecting the skin from drying out and external factors. The presence of plant extracts with antioxidant properties supports regeneration, evens out the skin tone and supports the skin's natural defense mechanisms. The cream has a soothing effect, reducing redness and the feeling of tightness, and its velvety consistency makes it ideal for both morning and evening care.
The serum intensively moisturizes the skin, restoring its freshness, softness and healthy glow. Thanks to the presence of hygroscopic substances, it effectively binds water in the epidermis, ensuring long-lasting hydration and improved elasticity. The composition also includes two types of hyaluronic acid and trehalose. This effect is supported by ingredients that create a delicate protective film that prevents moisture loss and strengthens the hydrolipid barrier. The formula has been enriched with soothing ingredients and antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative stress and external factors. The serum soothes, reduces the feeling of dryness and tightness, and the light, non-burdening consistency is quickly absorbed, leaving the skin silky smooth and visibly refreshed.
The serum has a strong antioxidant effect, protecting the skin from the negative effects of environmental factors such as smog, UV radiation and free radicals. Thanks to the presence of additional adaptogenic ingredients such as Asian pennywort and Chinese schisandra, it supports the skin's natural defense mechanisms, strengthens its immunity and improves the overall condition of the skin. Additionally, thanks to niacinamide, it soothes problematic conditions, improves the color and restores the skin's radiant, healthy appearance. The moisturizing base provides comfort and long-lasting hydration, while preparing the skin for further care. Regular use of the serum supports regeneration, reduces susceptibility to irritation and supports cell renewal processes.
Brightening serum-ampoule ASHWAGANDHA VITAMIN C TRANEXAMIC ACID
The serum effectively reduces the visibility of discolorations and helps even out the skin tone, restoring its radiant, fresh appearance. It works on several levels: it brightens existing pigmentation changes, prevents the formation of new ones and supports the natural process of epidermal renewal. The formula based on modern vitamin C derivatives and depigmenting ingredients selectively affects melanogenesis disorders without irritating the skin. The addition of enzymatic fruit extracts supports gentle exfoliation, improving the smoothness of the skin and its absorption of active ingredients. The serum also has antioxidant and soothing properties, thanks to which it protects the skin from oxidative stress and reduces minor redness. With regular use, the complexion becomes brighter, more uniform and radiant.
The rejuvenating serum has been developed for comprehensive skin care with signs of aging. The highly concentrated formula supports the synthesis of collagen and elastin, improving skin firmness, elasticity and density. The advanced peptides contained in the serum work synergistically, stimulating repair and smoothing processes, making fine lines and wrinkles less visible. The serum also delays skin aging thanks to a strong antioxidant that protects cells from free radicals, delaying the aging processes caused by external factors such as UV radiation or pollution.
