Inspirations
Oxidative stress – what is it and how does it affect the skin and our body?
Oxidative stress is a state of imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the body's ability to neutralize them with antioxidants. Under physiological conditions, ROS perform important regulatory and signaling functions in the body, but their excess leads to damage to biomolecules, which can result in serious health consequences . Modern research indicates the key role of oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of many chronic diseases , including atherosclerosis, neurodegenerative diseases, type 2 diabetes and cancer (Liguori et al., 2018). What is Oxidative Stress? – Explained in the Context of Skin Care Oxidative stress is a condition in which too many free radicals – oxygen molecules with unpaired electrons – are produced in the body (or specifically in the skin) and the body is unable to effectively neutralize them with antioxidants. Under normal conditions, free radicals are involved in important biological processes, but when there are too many of them (e.g. under the influence of UV radiation, pollution, stress, cigarette smoke), they begin to damage cells , including: collagen and elastin, cell membranes, Skin cell DNA. Oxidative stress and the skin – how does it affect its condition? The skin is the human body's largest organ and its first line of defense against harmful external factors. It is particularly vulnerable to oxidative stress caused by UV radiation, air pollution, cigarette smoke, and psychological stress. An excess of reactive oxygen species leads to numerous adverse effects: Photoaging of the skin – free radicals destroy collagen and elastin, resulting in wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity. Discoloration and uneven skin tone – ROS disrupt the function of melanocytes, which can lead to hyperpigmentation. Dehydration and roughness of the skin – oxidative stress weakens the hydrolipid barrier. Exacerbation of inflammatory conditions – such as acne, atopic dermatitis or psoriasis, because ROS activate inflammatory cytokines. Disorders of epidermal regeneration – the skin regenerates more slowly and becomes more susceptible to irritation and damage. That is why modern care places increasing emphasis on antioxidant and adaptogenic ingredients that support the skin in the fight against free radicals. Adaptogens in skin care – how do they support the fight against oxidative stress? Adaptogens are biologically active plant substances that increase the body's resistance (including the skin's) to stress—both oxidative and environmental. They have the ability to restore homeostasis, or internal balance, making them ideal ingredients in protective and anti-aging cosmetics. How do adaptogens work on the skin? They neutralize free radicals – thanks to the presence of polyphenols, flavonoids and terpenes with antioxidant properties. They reduce inflammation – they reduce the secretion of inflammatory cytokines in response to environmental stress. They strengthen the skin's protective barrier – supporting the production of ceramides and lipids. They improve microcirculation and oxygenation of the skin , which accelerates its regeneration. They protect the DNA of skin cells – preventing mutations and premature aging. Orientana cosmetics with adaptogens – effective antioxidant protection 1. Ashwagandha Antioxidant Serum Withania somnifera (ashwagandha) – acts as a natural neurocosmetic, reduces the effects of stress and strengthens the skin's defense mechanisms. CICA (Centella asiatica) – Centella asiatica supports regeneration, soothes and strengthens blood vessels. Schisandra chinensis - supports the protective function of the skin by limiting TEWL (transepidermal water loss), stimulates microcirculation and oxygenates skin cells, which translates into a fresh, radiant appearance. This light serum is perfect for daily urban care, especially for skin exposed to smog and UV radiation. The Antioxidation Serum is the strongest serum for oxidative stress, and the other serums in the ampoule also have antioxidant properties and are aimed at various skin problems (dehydration, discoloration, wrinkles). 2. Facial cosmetics with Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) Reishi, known as the "mushroom of immortality," is one of the most powerful adaptogens with documented antioxidant properties. Reishi in Orientana cosmetics: improves the skin's ability to regenerate, reduces signs of fatigue and stress, has anti-wrinkle properties. Reishi products are especially recommended for the care of mature and stressed skin. 3. Cosmetics with Rhodiola rosea Rhodiola rosea is an adaptogenic Arctic-mountain plant widely used in natural medicine and modern phytocosmetology. It is gaining recognition in skincare for its antioxidant, anti-aging, and protective properties, especially in the context of "stressed skin." You will find this ingredient in: Brightening Booster Orientana also uses other adaptogens. Read about them in the post Antioxidation - 6 Adaptogens. Causes of oxidative stress External factors Oxidative stress can be caused by numerous environmental factors that increase ROS production. The most important include: • Air pollution – exposure to heavy metals (e.g. lead, cadmium) and smog particles may induce the formation of free radicals (Valavanidis et al., 2013). • UV radiation – intense exposure to ultraviolet radiation leads to the formation of ROS in the skin, which may contribute to photoaging and skin cancer (Wang et al., 2017). • Smoking – tobacco smoke contains over 4,000 chemicals, many of which have pro-oxidant properties, leading to chronic oxidative stress (Pryor & Stone, 1993). Internal factors • Unhealthy lifestyle – inappropriate diet low in antioxidants, lack of physical activity and chronic psychological stress may increase oxidative stress (Furukawa et al., 2017). • Chronic diseases – diabetes, hypertension and obesity lead to increased production of ROS, which may further exacerbate the course of these diseases (Rani et al., 2016). Symptoms and effects of oxidative stress Long-term oxidative stress leads to cumulative damage to biomolecules, which increases the risk of chronic diseases. Cellular damage • Proteins – oxidation of proteins causes them to misfold and lose function, which can lead to neurodegeneration (Butterfield & Halliwell, 2019). • Lipids – lipid peroxidation of cell membranes leads to their destabilization and cell death (Ayala et al., 2014). • DNA – mutations induced by ROS are associated with carcinogenesis and aging processes (Cooke et al., 2003). Diseases related to oxidative stress Research indicates that oxidative stress plays a key role in the pathogenesis of numerous diseases, such as: • Atherosclerosis – oxidation of LDL lipoproteins contributes to the formation of atherosclerotic plaque (Stocker & Keaney, 2004). • Neurodegenerative diseases – excessive production of ROS in the brain is associated with Parkinson's and Alzheimer's disease (Barnham et al., 2004). • Cancer – chronic oxidative stress promotes mutations and neoplastic transformation (Reuter et al., 2010). Mechanisms of protection against oxidative stress The body has natural mechanisms to neutralize excess ROS. Enzymatic antioxidants Superoxide dismutase (SOD) – catalyzes the conversion of superoxide anion into the less reactive hydrogen peroxide. Catalase (CAT) – breaks down hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen. Glutathione peroxidase (GPx) – reduces hydrogen peroxide and lipid peroxides (Halliwell & Gutteridge, 2015). Non-enzymatic antioxidants • Vitamins C and E – neutralize free radicals, protecting lipids and proteins against oxidation. • Glutathione – the main intracellular antioxidant, playing a key role in detoxification (Lu, 2013). Prevention and treatment of oxidative stress A diet rich in antioxidants Eating foods rich in polyphenols , vitamins , and minerals can reduce oxidative stress. Some of the best sources of antioxidants include: • Berries, grapes, green tea (flavonoids) • Leafy vegetables (carotenoids) • Nuts and seeds (vitamin E) Antioxidant supplementation In case of antioxidant deficiencies, supplementation with vitamin C, E, coenzyme Q10 or resveratrol may be indicated (Lobo et al., 2010). Lifestyle changes • Regular physical activity of moderate intensity reduces the level of oxidative stress (Radak et al., 2013). • Avoiding smoking and exposure to air pollution reduces the production of ROS. Oxidative stress is one of the main factors accelerating the aging process of the body, including the skin. Free radicals, produced by external and internal factors, damage DNA, proteins, and lipids, leading to wrinkles, discoloration, inflammation, and decreased skin elasticity. Therefore, it's crucial to use appropriate antioxidants—both in your diet and in your daily skincare routine. Modern cosmetology utilizes adaptogens such as ashwagandha, reishi, and rhodiola rosea, which exhibit strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and protective properties. Orientana cosmetics with these ingredients effectively support the skin in its fight against oxidative stress, restoring its healthy, radiant appearance and supporting regeneration processes. It is worth remembering that preventing oxidative stress is not only about care, but also about lifestyle – a balanced diet, physical activity and avoiding pollution can actually prolong the youthfulness of your skin.
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Adaptogens in cosmetics – a natural shield for your skin
Modern cosmetology increasingly draws on the achievements of natural medicine and phytotherapy. One of the most promising areas of research is adaptogens. In the context of skin care, adaptogens have gained importance as ingredients that reduce the effects of oxidative and inflammatory stress , prevent premature aging and support the natural protective barrier of the epidermis. What are adaptogens? Adaptogens are active substances isolated from plants that have the ability to modulate the body's response to stress and restore homeostasis. The term was first coined by N.V. Lazarev in the 1940s. According to the WHO definition, an adaptogen must meet three criteria: demonstrate a nonspecific normalizing effect, be nontoxic, and enhance resistance to physical, chemical, and biological stress (Panossian & Wikman, 2010). The name adaptogen comes from the Latin word adaptare , meaning "to adapt," and the Greek suffix -gen , meaning "causing" or "inducing." The term was introduced in the mid-20th century by Soviet toxicologist and pharmacologist Nikolai Lazarev. In 1947, Lazarev proposed the term "adaptogen" to describe substances that increase the body's nonspecific resistance to stress and help restore homeostasis, regardless of the type of stressor (physical, chemical, or biological). His research was later continued by his students, particularly Israel Brekhman and Ilya Dardymov, who further refined the criteria for adaptogens. The effect of adaptogens on the skin How do adaptogens support the skin? Adaptogens have long been known for their impact on overall well-being, but in recent years, their potential in skin care has been increasingly recognized. Rich in antioxidants , saponins, triterpenes, and polysaccharides , adaptogenic plants offer comprehensive support for sensitive, stressed, and prematurely aging skin. Reduction of inflammation and redness Adaptogens have anti-inflammatory effects at the cellular level. Studies have shown that substances such as withanolides (ashwagandha) and salidroside (rhodiola rosea) inhibit the expression of proinflammatory cytokines, including IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α. In vitro models have shown that Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) extract reduces TNF-α levels by over 35% in skin cells exposed to UV radiation (Wachtel-Galor, 2011). Gotu kola, in turn, inhibits the activity of COX-2, an enzyme responsible for inflammation and swelling. For the skin, this means a reduction in redness , tightness and reactivity to external factors, especially in people with atopic dermatitis, rosacea and hypersensitivity. Cell protection against free radicals One of the biggest threats to the skin are reactive oxygen species (ROS), which destroy cellular structures, accelerating the aging process . Adaptogens are a rich source of compounds with strong antioxidant properties – such as ginsenosides, flavonoids, betulin, and polysaccharides. A study by Lee et al. (2019) showed that ginseng extract reduced lipid peroxidation levels by 42% and simultaneously increased the activity of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, catalase) in keratinocytes. The result? Less damage to DNA and structural proteins, better protection against UV radiation and air pollution. Strengthening the hydrolipid barrier The hydrolipid barrier is the skin's first line of defense. Its weakening leads to increased water loss (TEWL) , dryness, hyperreactivity, and susceptibility to allergens. Adaptogens such as Reishi, Gotu Kola and Tulsi: Increases the expression of ceramides and epidermal lipids (Panossian, 2010) Reduce TEWL by up to 25% within 14 days (Donovan et al. study, 2021) They support the regeneration of the stratum corneum of the epidermis The skin becomes more resistant to external factors , is better moisturized, and less susceptible to peeling and irritation. Stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis With age, fibroblast activity declines, leading to loss of firmness and the appearance of wrinkles. Adaptogens counteract this phenomenon by increasing the production of type I and III collagen and stimulating the activity of TGF-β – a growth factor responsible for skin regeneration. In a 2021 study (Donovan et al.), oral adaptogen supplementation increased skin elasticity by 12% and hydration by 16% after just 8 weeks of use. The action of adaptogens translates into improving the skin's structure , smoothing wrinkles and restoring a youthful appearance. Supports the regeneration of sensitive and tired skin Adaptogens support repair and regenerative processes . They accelerate wound healing, stimulate keratinocyte migration, and reduce cellular stress. Gotu kola, thanks to the content of madecassoside and asiaticoside: increases fibroblast proliferation by 30–50% accelerates wound closure by 40% faster compared to placebo (in vivo studies) In turn, rhodiola and reishi improve microcirculation, which results in better tissue oxygenation and faster regeneration of tired, gray and dull skin. The skin becomes more resistant, regenerated and radiant, especially after exposure to the sun, pollution or stress. Adaptogens are extremely effective yet safe active ingredients that provide comprehensive skin support. Their anti-inflammatory , antioxidant, and regenerative properties make them ideal for sensitive skin prone to oxidative stress and premature aging. Regular use of cosmetics with adaptogens can bring visible improvement in skin condition within a few weeks – in terms of hydration, elasticity and reduction of irritation. Adaptogens in natural cosmetics act as biological shields: they protect, strengthen and regulate. The most popular adaptogens used in cosmetics Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) Ashwagandha is a plant that has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries. It contains withanolides, alkaloids, and flavonoids, which exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory effects. In vitro studies have shown that ashwagandha extracts improve fibroblast proliferation and accelerate the regeneration of damaged epidermis (Mishra et al., 2000). It's a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from oxidative stress. It supports regeneration and strengthens the barrier function of the epidermis. Check out: ASHWAGANDHA Facial Serum-Ampoule Adaptogenic care for skin prone to stress. Contains ashwagandha root extract, which has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and supports the skin's protective barrier. Rhodiola rosea Native to cold regions of Europe and Asia, it contains rosavin and salidroside, which stabilize cortisol levels and protect cells from oxidative stress. In a dermatological context, it has the ability to improve cellular metabolism and protect against UV radiation, as confirmed by a study conducted by De Sanctis et al. (2012). It stabilizes cortisol levels, protects cellular DNA, supports skin metabolism and protects against UV radiation. Check out the REISHI and RHODIUM ROOT Illuminating Booster (for day use) – Brightens and energizes the complexion. Rhodiola helps combat oxidative stress and skin fatigue. Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) This mushroom has a long tradition of use in Chinese medicine. Rich in polysaccharides, triterpenoids, and peptides, Reishi exhibits anti-inflammatory, immunostimulating, and antioxidant properties. In skin care, it promotes healing, reduces redness, and protects against external factors (Wachtel-Galor et al., 2011). An adaptogenic mushroom rich in polysaccharides. It has anti-inflammatory properties, improves hydration, and promotes the regeneration of sensitive skin. Check out the entire Reishi series. Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) Also known as holy basil, it contains eugenol, ursolic acid, and anthocyanins. It has proven antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties. Tulsi extracts reduce sebum secretion, support acne treatment, and protect skin cells from oxidative stress (Mondal et al., 2009). It has antibacterial and anti-acne properties. It reduces sebum production and soothes skin stress. Check out Neem and Tulsi Shaving Balm – Tulsi has antibacterial and soothing properties. Ideal for skin prone to razor burn. Ginseng (Panax ginseng) It contains ginsenosides, which improve microcirculation, support cell renewal, and stimulate collagen synthesis. Studies have shown that ginseng can counteract discoloration and increase skin elasticity, making it firmer and more radiant (Shin et al., 2017). It improves microcirculation, supports collagen synthesis, and helps reduce discoloration. Check out: Anti-wrinkle cream for men. Gotu Kola (Asian pennywort) Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is an adaptogenic plant with multifaceted biological effects, valued in both traditional medicine and modern cosmetology. In the context of hair care, its effects stem primarily from the presence of triterpenes (such as asiaticoside and madecassoside) and flavonoids. Gotu kola improves microcirculation in the scalp, facilitating oxygenation and nourishment of hair follicles. This helps activate the anagen (hair growth) phase, which may help prevent excessive hair loss and stimulate hair growth. Centella asiatica extract has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which helps reduce scalp irritation and supports epidermis regeneration, especially in cases of inflammation or dandruff. Hair cosmetics: e.g. Ayurvedic hair lotion or Ayurvedic Therapy – They strengthen hair follicles, stimulate hair growth and improve microcirculation in the scalp. Adaptogens and oxidative stress of the skin Oxidative stress is one of the main enemies of healthy skin. It causes collagen degradation, increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), wrinkles, discoloration, and irritation. Adaptogens counteract these processes by neutralizing free radicals (ROS), inhibiting inflammation and supporting the natural renewal of the epidermis. Effects of oxidative stress: Degradation of collagen and elastin Discoloration (sun spots, melasma) Inflammatory conditions (acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis) Loss of firmness and dryness of the skin The skin, as an organ in direct contact with the external environment, is particularly vulnerable to the effects of stress. Both physical and mental stress lead to overproduction of cortisol, which disrupts the epidermal barrier and exacerbates inflammatory processes. Chronic oxidative stress results in the accumulation of free radicals, which leads to damage to cellular structures, including lipid membranes, proteins, and DNA, contributing to premature skin aging (Pillai et al., 2005). Oxidative stress plays a key role in the skin aging process and in the development of many dermatological conditions . It occurs when the balance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the body's ability to neutralize them through antioxidant systems is disturbed. Oxidative stress leads to the excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which damage essential cellular structures such as lipid membranes, proteins, and DNA. In the skin, this results in the degradation of collagen and elastin —the main proteins responsible for skin firmness, elasticity, and youthful appearance. Over time, this leads to a loss of elasticity, wrinkle formation, and skin laxity. This process is one of the main mechanisms of skin aging, both endogenous (intrinsic) and exogenous, such as exposure to UV radiation. Oxidative stress negatively impacts skin cell proliferation and differentiation, resulting in slower epidermal renewal and impaired wound healing. Weakened cells have a reduced ability to repair damage, which can lead to chronic inflammation, infections, and permanent structural changes in the skin. Who are adaptogen cosmetics recommended for? Natural cosmetics with adaptogens are not just a passing trend, but a well-thought-out solution for people whose skin is subjected to daily challenges – stress, pollution, hormonal changes, and sleep deprivation. Thanks to their ability to restore balance, reduce inflammation, and strengthen the epidermal barrier, adaptogens are effective in the care of many skin types and various physiological skin conditions. For people living in constant stress and pace Daily pressures, lack of sleep, a sedentary lifestyle, and exposure to blue light (HEV) all contribute to excess cortisol production and oxidative stress. Skin becomes dull, gray, and dehydrated, and its protective barrier weakens. Adaptogens such as ashwagandha, rhodiola rosea and reishi help neutralize the effects of environmental stress , support microcirculation and restore freshness and balance to the skin. For people with sensitive, reactive and dehydrated skin Sensitive skin requires special care – it is easily irritated and reacts to temperature changes, tap water, cosmetics containing alcohol, and SLS. It is also often accompanied by increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and redness. Adaptogens such as reishi and ginseng have soothing and strengthening properties , improving the skin's resistance to external factors. Gotu kola, on the other hand, supports epidermal regeneration and the restoration of the hydrolipid barrier. For people with signs of premature aging Wrinkles, loss of firmness, discoloration or a gray complexion are symptoms that can appear even before the age of 30, especially in people exposed to stress, smog and lack of sleep. Research shows that regular use of cosmetics with adaptogens can: increase collagen synthesis by 21–35% (in the case of ginseng and ashwagandha) improve skin elasticity by more than 12% after 8 weeks of supplementation (Donovan et al., 2021) reduce redness and signs of fatigue after just 14 days of using Reishi products Adaptogens are therefore a natural alternative for people looking for effective anti-aging care without retinoids or AHA/BHA acids . For people with dermatological problems Acne vulgaris, rosacea, atopic dermatitis (AD), erythema or eczema – these are conditions in which the skin is in a state of chronic inflammation and weakening. Adaptogens, thanks to their ability to inhibit proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α) and support healing and regeneration processes, can be a valuable adjunct therapy. Gotu kola and tulsi are known for their anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. Ashwagandha and reishi help reduce skin hyperreactivity and repair microdamage. For anyone who wants to protect their skin from environmental stress Air pollution, smog, UV and HEV radiation, air conditioning – all these factors have a proven impact on collagen degradation, melanogenesis disorders and the weakening of the skin's protective layer. Adaptogens are a natural “biological shield” that: neutralizes free radicals, regulates the inflammatory response, supports detoxification and skin repair. Adaptogens in supplements – support from the inside Adaptogens can also be taken orally – in the form of capsules, extracts, or teas. They then act systemically: stabilizing cortisol levels strengthening immunity improving sleep, mood and concentration Supplements with adaptogens often combine, for example, ashwagandha, rhodiola rosea, and ginseng – for a synergistic effect. Adaptogens are innovative ingredients with proven antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. They reduce the effects of stress on the skin, support its regeneration, and delay the aging process. Their effectiveness has been confirmed by numerous scientific studies. If you are looking for natural support for your skin, cosmetics with adaptogens are a safe, effective and modern choice. See also 👉 [link to the category Antioxidation - 6 adaptogens 👉 [link to the entry: Reishi Mushroom - Treasure of Eastern Medicine 👉 [link to the post: Ashwagandha - action on skin stress
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What to put under face SPF in the summer? A cosmetologist advises on which serum to choose and how to prepare your skin for the sun.
Summer is a time of intense sun, high temperatures, and… frequent skincare mistakes. Most people know that sunscreen is an essential part of their routine, but still few of us consider what should be applied under facial SPF. Yet, a well-chosen base layer can determine the effectiveness of sun protection, the comfort of wearing the filter, and even the skin’s condition after a full day of UV exposure. As a cosmetologist, I often hear questions like: Is it enough to just apply sunscreen? Can I use a vitamin C serum under SPF? What about hydration? The answer isn't straightforward – it all depends on the skin's needs, the type of sunscreen product, and the conditions we're in. Facial SPF is just one piece of the puzzle; what's underneath it is equally important. In this article, I explain: why it's worth applying skincare under sunscreen, which ingredients work best in summer, which formulas work with SPF and which can weaken its effect, and what an ideal morning routine looks like in the sunny season. Let's start with the basics: why even bother applying anything under facial SPF? Why apply anything under facial SPF? Sunscreen is one of the most important skincare products – it protects the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation, preventing photoaging and hyperpigmentation. However, for facial SPF to work effectively and not burden the skin, it should be part of a well-planned morning routine. Sunscreen alone is not enough – it’s worth preparing the skin for its application using appropriate base cosmetics. Better adhesion and effectiveness of the filter Well-hydrated and smooth skin is an ideal base for any sunscreen. Facial SPF spreads better and doesn't pill if you apply a light serum or moisturizing cream beforehand. This ensures that the filter will work evenly and effectively. Enhanced antioxidant protection UV radiation not only damages skin cell DNA but also generates what is known as oxidative stress, which accelerates the aging process. This is why cosmetologists recommend using vitamin C serum or other antioxidants under facial SPF – it's an effective shield against free radicals. Research shows that combining vitamin C and sunscreens significantly increases photoprotection. Hydration and skin barrier protection High temperatures, sun, and air conditioning can lead to epidermal dehydration. Sunscreen alone is often not enough, especially if it contains alcohol or mattifying ingredients. Therefore, it's worth applying a product with hyaluronic acid, trehalose, or squalane under facial SPF to ensure proper hydration and prevent a tight skin feeling. Comfortable wear all day long Properly chosen skincare under SPF ensures that the skin looks fresh, doesn't get excessively shiny, and the filter doesn't "cake" or separate. This is especially important when you wear makeup – a skincare base under the filter improves its longevity and appearance on the face. So, if you want facial SPF to fulfill its function not just on paper, but in reality, don't skip the foundational skincare step. Lightweight, hydrating, and antioxidant formulas will help your skin better withstand sun exposure and provide comfort throughout the day. Characteristics of ideal cosmetics under facial SPF in summer In summer, skincare must be light, effective, and well-thought-out. High temperatures, air humidity, sweat, and excess sebum mean that every extra layer on the face can affect the comfort of the entire day. Therefore, if you reach for facial SPF, also consider what cosmetics to apply under the filter so as not to overload the skin and not weaken the protective action. Light, fast-absorbing formulas Under facial SPF, gel, water, or water-emulsion consistency products work best. They should absorb quickly and not leave a greasy film. Serums and essences are well-tolerated, as they do not negatively affect the durability of filters or cause them to pill. Examples of ideal consistencies: Ashwagandha ampoule serum Tremella elixir serum. Smoothing and soothing serum Anti-wrinkle serum Non-comedogenic and oil-free formulas During the summer, many people struggle with excessive skin shine and clogged pores. Therefore, it is advisable to use non-comedogenic cosmetics free of heavy oils or waxes under facial SPF. Such formulas not only prevent imperfections but also work better with chemical and mineral filters. Active ingredients supporting UV protection Some substances not only "get along" well with SPF but even enhance its effects. These include: vitamins C and E - powerful antioxidants that increase the effectiveness of sun protection, ashwagandha - a powerful antioxidant, scavenging free radicals produced by radiation niacinamide - regulates sebum, has anti-inflammatory and brightening effects, hyaluronic acid - binds water and protects the skin from dehydration, CICA (Centella Asiatica) - soothes, regenerates, and protects capillaries Check out our ashwagandha cosmetics. Minimalist and compatible compositions Cosmetics under SPF should be well thought out – the fewer irritating ingredients, the better. Avoid overly intense AHA/BHA acids, retinoids, and exfoliating products in the morning. Ideal care under facial SPF is one that supports the epidermal barrier, does not interact with the filter, and does not cause irritation. Cosmetologist's tipRemember, not every cosmetic will work well with sunscreen. If your facial SPF pills, shines, or "cakes," it's worth looking at the previous layers of skincare. Sometimes, simply switching to a lighter serum or omitting a cream can significantly improve the longevity of sun protection. Properly selected active ingredients not only do not interfere with sunscreens but can genuinely enhance the effect of facial SPF, support the skin in fighting free radicals, and prevent the formation of hyperpigmentation. Below is a list of substances worth using in a serum or light cream under SPF in the summer – also in the context of daily antioxidant care. Best active ingredients under facial SPF Properly selected active ingredients not only do not interfere with sunscreens but can genuinely enhance the effect of facial SPF, support the skin in fighting free radicals, and prevent the formation of hyperpigmentation. Below I discuss a list of substances that are worth using in a serum or light cream under SPF in the summer – also in the context of daily antioxidant care. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid and derivatives) In summer skincare, vitamin C plays a key role, being one of the best-researched and most effective antioxidants. In the form of ascorbic acid or its stable derivatives like ethylated vitamin C, it neutralizes free radicals generated by UV radiation, thereby genuinely supporting the action of sunscreens. Regular use of vitamin C serum in the morning, under facial SPF, not only strengthens the skin's antioxidant protection but also prevents the formation of hyperpigmentation and evens out skin tone. It is an excellent choice for those with dull, tired skin prone to uneven pigmentation, and it makes an ideal base under a filter because modern vitamin C formulas are light, watery, and absorb well. Niacinamide The second ingredient worth incorporating into your morning routine before applying facial SPF is niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3. This substance is renowned for its versatility and excellent skin tolerance. It has anti-inflammatory properties, regulates sebum secretion, strengthens the epidermal barrier, and exhibits depigmenting effects, which is why it is particularly recommended for individuals struggling with post-sun or post-acne hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide also works wonderfully for oily and combination skin, as it has mattifying and soothing properties, helping to maintain comfort even on hot days. In combination with sunscreens, it forms a cohesive duo, protecting the skin from photodamage while supporting its natural defense mechanisms. Hyaluronic acid (in various forms) We cannot forget about the ingredient that ensures the comfort of wearing SPF even on the hottest days – hyaluronic acid. This physiological humectant, naturally occurring in our skin, has the ability to bind water in the epidermis and maintain proper hydration levels. Thanks to its lightness and compatibility with other ingredients, it is perfect for use under facial SPF – it does not burden the skin, does not interfere with filters, and provides comfort throughout the day. Hyaluronic acid in various molecular forms (high and low molecular weight) effectively improves skin elasticity, reduces the feeling of tightness after filter application, and facilitates the spreading of protective cosmetics. It is an inconspicuous but extremely important ingredient in summer care for all skin types – including dry, reactive, and mature skin. Plant antioxidants - natural shield for skiny Schizandra Chinensis (Chinese magnolia vine) - antioxidant shield Schizandra extract is a source of lignans and flavonoids – compounds with strong antioxidant effects. It protects the skin from environmental damage, improves its resistance to stress, and also has soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is an excellent ingredient to use under facial SPF in summer, especially in conditions of urban smog and strong sunlight. Rhodiola Rosea (Rhodiola rosea) - adaptogen protecting against cellular stress An adaptogenic root that acts as a biological shield - it helps the skin adapt to difficult environmental conditions, such as UV radiation, pollution, and extreme temperatures. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, supports regeneration, and slows down aging processes. Withania Somnifera (ashwagandha) - Ayurvedic antioxidant and soothing adaptogen Ashwagandha, known from Ayurveda, has a calming effect on skin stressed by sun and external factors. The withanolides contained in the root have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and protective properties. It's a great choice under facial SPF, especially for dry, reactive, and dehydrated skin. Centella Asiatica (Centella asiatica) - soothing and regeneration Centella asiatica has soothing, regenerating, and strengthening properties. Madecassoside and asiaticoside support epidermal reconstruction processes, protect against oxidative stress, and strengthen capillaries. An ingredient recommended under SPF, especially in the care of couperose and sensitive skin. Formulas to avoid under facial SPF Choosing the right skincare under sunscreen is crucial not only for the comfort of wearing the product but, more importantly, for the effectiveness of UV protection. Although facial SPF is a cornerstone of summer routine, not every product we apply under the filter works in its favor. Some ingredients or formulas can reduce its stability, cause pilling on the skin, or exacerbate imperfections and shine. It's important to know what to avoid, especially on hot, humid days when the skin reacts more quickly to overload. The first category of ingredients to avoid under SPF are heavy emollients, i.e., fatty oils, butters, and waxes, especially in high concentrations. While they can be helpful for nighttime regeneration, their application in the morning, under sunscreen, often results in excessive shine, a sticky feeling, or even clogged pores. A heavy lipid layer can also interfere with the adhesion and spreading of the filter, leading to its uneven distribution and reduced effectiveness of sun protection. As a result, facial SPF does not work as it should, and wearing comfort drastically decreases. A second mistake is reaching for active exfoliating or irritating cosmetics in the morning, especially those containing high concentrations of AHA and BHA acids, retinol, or retinoids. Although these ingredients work great in evening care, in the morning they can increase skin sensitivity to UV radiation and raise the risk of hyperpigmentation. Moreover, applying such preparations under facial SPF in mid-summer, without precise knowledge of their phototoxicity, can lead to micro-irritations, dryness, and skin hyperreactivity. Another problem can be excessive layering of skincare, meaning too many products before applying the filter. Although many people like comprehensive routines, applying several layers of serums, creams, oils, and boosters can lead to SPF "pilling," meaning it rubs off unattractively during the day. Additionally, this increases the risk of ingredient interaction and destabilization of sun protection. In summer, it's worth adopting the "less is more" principle – one well-chosen active product and a light moisturizing cream are definitely sufficient under facial SPF. Products with unpredictable compatibility with filters should also be avoided, especially strongly silicone-based, heavily pigmented, or those with a noticeable lifting effect (e.g., with a high content of film formers). Although they often provide an "instant smoothing effect," they can cause facial SPF to pill or combine poorly with makeup. Cosmetologist's tip:If your sunscreen doesn't spread well, separates, or leaves streaks, the problem might not be with the SPF itself, but with the skincare you applied beforehand. Sometimes, simply reducing the number of layers or changing the cream formula to a lighter one can make a huge difference in comfort and effectiveness of protection. How to apply skincare under SPF step by step? For facial SPF to work effectively and provide the declared sun protection, not only its quality but also its application method and skin preparation are crucial. The daily morning skincare routine should be well-thought-out, light, and adapted to the current needs of the skin. An excess of products, poorly chosen formulas, or incorrect order can lead to even the best sunscreen not fulfilling its function. Here's how to properly apply skincare under facial SPF – step by step. Start with a thorough but gentle cleansing of the skin. In summer, when sweating and sebum production increase, it's worth using foaming cleansers or gels without SLS, which effectively remove nighttime skincare residues without disrupting the hydrolipid barrier. Clean skin absorbs active ingredients better and allows the filter to spread evenly. The next step is toning, which means restoring the skin's natural pH after washing and gently moisturizing it. Choose toners or watery essences with gentle humectants, such as glycerin or aloe, which will prepare the skin to receive the serum. This step is often skipped, which is a shame – toning improves the absorption of subsequent cosmetics and minimizes the feeling of dryness after SPF, especially if you use mattifying filters. Next comes the serum – this is where you incorporate active ingredients that support sun protection, such as vitamin C, niacinamide, schizandra, ashwagandha, or rhodiola rosea. Choose a serum with a light, water-gel formula – it will absorb quickly, won't weigh down the skin, and will form an active base under facial SPF. The serum should be tailored to your skin type and needs: antioxidant for mature skin, mattifying for oily, regenerating for sensitive. Check out our face serums. Next step – moisturizer, though not always necessary. If your SPF contains moisturizing ingredients and has a comfortable consistency, you can use it without a prior cream. But if you have dry, dehydrated skin or use a filter prone to drying, a light moisturizer (e.g., with hyaluronic acid, trehalose, or algae) will be a great support. Just be careful not to overdo the layers – too rich a cream can cause facial SPF to pill. Finally, apply sunscreen, preferably SPF 30 or SPF 50, selected for your skin type (mineral or chemical, light fluid, cream-gel, or emulsion). Apply it generously – your face needs about half a teaspoon of cream to achieve the level of protection declared by the manufacturer. Allow the SPF to absorb well before moving on to makeup or subsequent steps. Cosmetologist's tip:Remember, proper SPF application is not just about choosing a good product, but also about consciously preparing the skin. Thanks to light, well-chosen active cosmetics and the correct order of steps, facial SPF will work effectively all day long, and you will avoid irritation, shine, and hyperpigmentation. FAQ - most common patient questions in the cosmetology office The selection and proper use of facial SPF is one of the most frequently discussed topics during cosmetology consultations, especially in the spring and summer. Below you will find answers to questions that my patients regularly ask, which may also clear up your doubts. Can facial SPF replace moisturizer? Yes, but not always. Many modern sunscreens contain moisturizing ingredients, but they are usually not sufficient in summer. It is worth applying a water serum beforehand (for example, one of the SPF serum ampoules) or a light moisturizing cream (for example, a vitamin C cream or a tremella cream). Should I use serum or cream under SPF? It depends on the needs of your skin. If the filter itself is comfortable, a serum will suffice. For dry or irritated skin, it's worth adding a moisturizing cream. The most important thing is not to overload the skin with too many layers – the priority is that facial SPF spreads well and doesn't pill. My patients praise serum ampoules under SPF. Can I use retinol in summer under SPF? Retinol itself is not photosensitizing, but it increases the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation, so its use in summer requires great caution. If you continue the treatment, ensure regeneration, strong hydration, and daily, high facial SPF 50 protection. However, it is safest to limit retinoids to evening care, take a break during the summer season, or choose Retinol H10 (hydrogenated), which is non-irritating. Can I apply SPF directly to cleansed skin? Theoretically yes, but it is not an optimal solution. Skin deprived of a moisturizing layer loses water faster, which can affect the comfort of wearing the filter. Even a thin layer of toner and a light serum can significantly improve the longevity and quality of facial SPF application. Why does SPF pill or rub off? The most common reason is incompatibility with previous skincare – too greasy a cream, too many silicones, or layering too many products. It's worth testing different configurations and opting for minimalist, light formulas under the filter. Do I need to reapply SPF throughout the day if I'm not at the beach? Yes, if you are exposed to daylight for many hours – even in the city. Facial SPF loses effectiveness after a few hours, especially with sweating, touching your face, or wearing makeup. Does SPF clog pores? Not all of them. Modern SPF formulas are increasingly lighter, non-comedogenic, and adapted to various skin types. When choosing a facial SPF, pay attention to its ingredients – avoid heavy oils, waxes, and comedogenic filters if you are prone to imperfections. However, always wash off SPF in the evening. The best solution to guarantee no clogged pores is a two-step cleansing. First, cleansing oil, then foam or gel. How to combine SPF with makeup? After applying sunscreen, wait a few minutes for the product to absorb well. Avoid rubbing and apply makeup gently, preferably with a sponge or fingers. Facial SPF in a light emulsion or cream-gel works well with mineral foundations and light BB creams. My Summary - take care of skincare under SPF, and your skin will thank you Proper sun protection is more than just choosing a good filter. For facial SPF to work effectively, it should be applied to properly prepared skin – moisturized, strengthened, and protected from oxidative stress. It is worth opting for light formulas, active antioxidant ingredients, and avoiding cosmetics that may interfere with its action. As a cosmetologist, I see how much daily routine impacts skin condition, especially in summer. Proper care under facial SPF not only increases the effectiveness of sun protection but also reduces the formation of hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and dryness. The key is a conscious, consistent approach and avoiding random layers that do not cooperate with the skin or the filter. If you want to choose the right products under SPF or need a light, effective antioxidant serum for the day, reach for proven solutions with natural ingredients and a light, gel base. In summer, your skin truly needs less, but wisely chosen. Check out Orientana's range of serums and creams under SPF – based on plant adaptogens and antioxidants, ideal for summer. Żaneta Pasierkiewicz - Orientana Cosmetologist
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