August 7, 2025

Oxidative stress - mechanisms, effects and methods of counteracting

Oxidative stress is a state of imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the body's ability to neutralize them with antioxidants. Under physiological conditions, ROS perform important regulatory and signaling functions in the body, but their excess leads to damage to biomolecules, which can result in serious health consequences. Contemporary research indicates a key role of oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of many chronic diseases, including atherosclerosis, neurodegenerative diseases, type 2 diabetes, and cancer (Liguori et al., 2018). 2. What is oxidative stress? Oxidative stress is a disturbance of redox homeostasis that results from excessive production of ROS or impaired functioning of antioxidant systems. ROS are oxygen molecules containing an unpaired electron, which makes them highly reactive and capable of damaging proteins, lipids, and DNA. The most important ROS include superoxide anion (O₂•⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radical (•OH) (Sies, 2017). The body has a number of protective mechanisms that allow it to neutralize excess ROS, but their failure or excessive exposure to prooxidant factors can lead to oxidative stress and cellular damage. 3. Causes of oxidative stress 3.1 External factors Oxidative stress can be caused by numerous environmental factors that increase ROS production. The most important include: • Air pollution – exposure to heavy metals (e.g. lead, cadmium) and smog particles may induce the formation of free radicals (Valavanidis et al., 2013). • UV radiation – intense exposure to ultraviolet radiation leads to the formation of ROS in the skin, which may contribute to photoaging and skin cancer (Wang et al., 2017). • Tobacco smoking – Tobacco smoke contains over 4,000 chemicals, many of which have pro-oxidant effects, leading to chronic oxidative stress (Pryor & Stone, 1993). 3.2 Internal factors • Unhealthy lifestyle – inappropriate diet low in antioxidants, lack of physical activity and chronic psychological stress may increase oxidative stress (Furukawa et al., 2017). • Chronic diseases – diabetes, hypertension and obesity lead to increased production of ROS, which may further exacerbate the course of these diseases (Rani et al., 2016). 4. Symptoms and effects of oxidative stress Long-term oxidative stress leads to cumulative damage to biomolecules, which increases the risk of chronic diseases. 4.1 Cellular damage • Proteins – oxidation of proteins causes them to misfold and lose function, which can lead to neurodegeneration (Butterfield & Halliwell, 2019). • Lipids – lipid peroxidation of cell membranes leads to their destabilization and cell death (Ayala et al., 2014). • DNA – ROS-induced mutations are associated with carcinogenesis and aging processes (Cooke et al., 2003). 4.2 Diseases related to oxidative stress Research indicates that oxidative stress plays a key role in the pathogenesis of numerous diseases, such as: • Atherosclerosis – oxidation of LDL lipoproteins contributes to the formation of atherosclerotic plaque (Stocker & Keaney, 2004). • Neurodegenerative diseases – excessive production of ROS in the brain is associated with Parkinson's and Alzheimer's disease (Barnham et al., 2004). • Cancer – chronic oxidative stress promotes mutations and neoplastic transformation (Reuter et al., 2010). 5. Mechanisms of protection against oxidative stress The body has natural mechanisms to neutralize excess ROS. 5.1 Enzymatic antioxidants • Superoxide dismutase (SOD) – catalyzes the conversion of superoxide anion to the less reactive hydrogen peroxide. • Catalase (CAT) – breaks down hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen. 7:08 Anna Wasilewska • Glutathione peroxidase (GPx) – reduces hydrogen peroxide and lipid peroxides (Halliwell & Gutteridge, 2015). 5.2 Non-enzymatic antioxidants • Vitamins C and E – neutralize free radicals, protecting lipids and proteins from oxidation. • Glutathione – a major intracellular antioxidant that plays a key role in detoxification (Lu, 2013). 6. Prevention and treatment of oxidative stress 6.1 Antioxidant-rich diet Eating foods rich in polyphenols, vitamins, and minerals can reduce oxidative stress. The best sources of antioxidants include: • Berries, grapes, green tea (flavonoids) • Leafy vegetables (carotenoids) • Nuts and seeds (vitamin E) 6.2 Antioxidant supplementation In case of antioxidant deficiencies, supplementation with vitamin C, E, coenzyme Q10 or resveratrol may be indicated (Lobo et al., 2010). 6.3 Lifestyle changes • Regular physical activity of moderate intensity reduces the level of oxidative stress (Radak et al., 2013). • Avoiding smoking and exposure to air pollution reduces the production of ROS. 7. Summary Oxidative stress is a significant risk factor for the development of chronic diseases. Controlling it through a healthy diet, physical activity and reducing environmental factors can significantly contribute to improving health and slowing down the aging process. Modern research focuses on finding new methods to counteract the effects of oxidative stress, which may be crucial in preventing many diseases.

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August 1, 2025

Adaptogens in skincare – a natural response to stress and aging

Modern cosmetology increasingly draws on the achievements of natural medicine and phytotherapy. One of the more promising directions of research are adaptogens - substances of plant origin that help the body adapt to stressors. In the context of skin care, adaptogens have gained importance as ingredients that reduce the effects of oxidative and inflammatory stress, counteract premature aging and support the natural protective barrier of the epidermis. What are adaptogens? Adaptogens are active substances isolated from plants that have the ability to modulate the body's response to stress and restore homeostasis. This term was first used by N. V. Lazarev in the 1940s. According to the WHO definition, an adaptogen should meet three criteria: show a non-specific normalizing effect, be non-toxic, and enhance resistance to physical, chemical, and biological stress (Panossian & Wikman, 2010). The name adaptogen comes from the Latin word adaptare , meaning "to adapt," and the Greek suffix -gen , meaning "causing" or "inducing." The term was introduced in the mid-20th century by Soviet toxicologist and pharmacologist Nikolai Lazarev. In 1947, Lazarev proposed the term "adaptogen" to describe substances that increase the nonspecific resistance of the organism to stress and help restore homeostasis, regardless of the type of stressors (physical, chemical, or biological). Later, his research was continued by his students, especially Israel Brekhman and Ilya Dardymov, who specified the criteria for adaptogens. The most popular adaptogens used in cosmetics Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) is a plant used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine. It contains withanolides, alkaloids and flavonoids, which have strong antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory effects. In vitro studies have shown that ashwagandha extracts improve fibroblast proliferation and accelerate the regeneration of damaged epidermis (Mishra et al., 2000). Rhodiola rosea , native to cold regions of Europe and Asia, contains rosavin and salidroside, which stabilize cortisol levels and protect cells from oxidative stress. In a dermatological context, it has the ability to improve cell metabolism and protect against UV radiation, as confirmed by a study conducted by De Sanctis et al. (2012). Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) is a mushroom with a long tradition of use in Chinese medicine. Rich in polysaccharides, triterpenoids and peptides, Reishi has anti-inflammatory, immunostimulating and antioxidant effects. In skin care, it supports healing, reduces redness and protects against external factors (Wachtel-Galor et al., 2011). Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) , also known as Holy Basil, is characterized by the content of eugenol, ursolic acid and anthocyanins. It has proven antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties. Tulsi extracts reduce sebum secretion, support the treatment of acne lesions and protect skin cells from oxidative stress (Mondal et al., 2009). Ginseng (Panax ginseng) contains ginsenosides, which improve microcirculation, support cell renewal processes and stimulate collagen synthesis. Studies have shown that ginseng can counteract discoloration and increase skin elasticity, making it firmer and more radiant (Shin et al., 2017). Gotu Kola (Asian Pennywort) Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is an adaptogenic plant with multidirectional biological effects, valued in both traditional medicine and modern cosmetology. In the context of hair care, its effects are mainly due to the presence of triterpenes (such as asiaticoside, madecassoside) and flavonoids. Gotu kola improves microcirculation in the scalp, which facilitates oxygenation and nourishment of hair follicles. Thanks to this, it supports the activation of the anagen phase (hair growth), which can help to stop excessive hair loss and stimulate its growth. Centella asiatica extract has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which helps reduce scalp irritation and supports the regeneration of the epidermis, especially in cases of inflammation or dandruff. Skin and stress - here you need adaptogens The skin, as an organ in direct contact with the external environment, is particularly vulnerable to the effects of stress. Both physical and mental stress lead to overproduction of cortisol, which disrupts the functioning of the epidermal barrier and intensifies inflammatory processes. Chronic oxidative stress results in the accumulation of free radicals, which leads to damage to cellular structures, including lipid membranes, proteins and DNA, contributing to premature skin aging (Pillai et al., 2005). Oxidative stress plays a key role in skin aging and in the development of many dermatological conditions. It occurs when the balance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the body's ability to neutralize them through antioxidant systems is disturbed. Oxidative stress leads to excessive production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which damage basic cellular structures such as lipid membranes, proteins, and DNA. In the skin, this results in the degradation of collagen and elastin – the main proteins responsible for skin firmness, elasticity, and youthful appearance. Over time, this leads to loss of elasticity, wrinkle formation, and skin laxity. This process is one of the main mechanisms of skin aging, both endogenous (internal) and exogenous, related to, for example, exposure to UV radiation. Reactive oxygen species also damage epidermal lipids, which are crucial for maintaining a tight and functional skin barrier. Their degradation results in increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which leads to skin dryness, susceptibility to irritation and increased reactivity to external factors. The skin becomes more sensitive, less resistant to allergens, pathogens or irritating cosmetic ingredients. Oxidative stress plays an important role in the activation of the inflammatory response in the skin. ROS activate transcription factors such as NF-κB, leading to increased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (e.g. IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α). This chronic inflammation may contribute to the development of dermatological diseases such as acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and rosacea. Moreover, inflammation further increases oxidative stress, creating a vicious cycle leading to further damage. Reactive oxygen species also affect the functioning of melanocytes – cells responsible for the production of melanin. Excessive melanogenesis, induced by oxidative stress, can lead to the formation of discolorations, such as sun spots or melasma. In turn, damage to melanocytes can result in hypopigmentation, and in extreme cases lead to diseases such as vitiligo. Oxidative stress negatively affects skin cell proliferation and differentiation, which translates into slower epidermal renewal and impaired wound healing processes. Weakened cells have less ability to repair damage, which can lead to chronic inflammation, infections and permanent structural changes in the skin. The effect of adaptogens on the skin Although adaptogens have traditionally been used mainly in the context of improving immunity, physical and mental performance, more and more research indicates their significant effect in skin care – both in terms of protection and regeneration. Adaptogens have a multifaceted protective effect on skin cells. First of all, they reduce the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as IL-6 and TNF-α, and regulate the activity of the HPA axis (hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis), which translates into improved inflammation and skin barrier function (Panossian et al., 2010). In addition, the abundance of antioxidants contained in adaptogens allows for effective combating of free radicals and protection of cells from oxidative stress. Studies show that adaptogens stimulate the expression of collagen types I and III, which leads to improved skin elasticity and firmness (Lee et al., 2019). One of the key mechanisms of action of adaptogens in the skin is their ability to neutralize free radicals. These compounds, such as polysaccharides, phenols and saponins, have strong antioxidant properties. Thanks to this, they protect skin cells from oxidative stress caused by UV radiation, environmental pollution and other stress factors. Adaptogens such as ginseng (Panax ginseng) , ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) or Rhodiola rosea (Rhodiola rosea) have the ability to reduce lipid peroxidation and stabilize cell membranes, which translates into delayed skin aging processes. Some adaptogens support the synthesis of ceramides and epidermal lipids, which influences the reconstruction of the skin's hydrolipid layer. An example is reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) - an adaptogenic mushroom rich in polysaccharides and triterpenes - which improves skin hydration and accelerates the regeneration of damaged epidermis. Regular use of adaptogen extracts can result in improved skin elasticity, reduced dryness and increased resistance to external factors. Stress and inflammation are closely linked. Adaptogens modulate the skin's inflammatory response by inhibiting the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines and enzymes such as COX-2 and TNF-α. This makes them particularly useful in the care of sensitive, reactive skin and skin affected by inflammation - e.g. acne, atopic dermatitis or eczema. Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is known for its healing, anti-inflammatory and collagen-stimulating properties, making it a popular ingredient in dermocosmetics. Adaptogens affect the activity of fibroblasts and keratinocytes, stimulating regenerative processes and the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and elastin. As a result, they improve the structure of the skin, support its density and reduce the visibility of wrinkles. Adaptogens such as schisandra chinensis or eleutherococcus senticosus have elasticizing, revitalizing and protective properties, which is why they are increasingly included in anti-aging cosmetics recipes. Modern skin is exposed not only to classic stressors, but also to blue light (HEV) emitted by electronic device screens. Adaptogens, thanks to their antioxidant and protective properties, can act as natural "biological shields", reducing the effects of environmental stress and slowing down the processes of cellular damage induced by modern civilization threats. Who are adaptogens particularly recommended for? Adaptogens in skin care are especially effective for people exposed to chronic stress, tired, with dehydrated, flabby or sensitive skin. Due to their normalizing and regenerating effects, they are also recommended for people with dermatological problems such as acne, atopic dermatitis or eczema. Adaptogens are a valuable tool in modern skin care, offering support in combating the negative effects of stress and aging. Their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and regenerative effects make them an effective and safe solution for a variety of skin needs. Integrating adaptogens into your daily skin care routine can bring tangible benefits, both aesthetic and health-related. Have you heard of adaptogens? It sounds complicated, but they are nothing more than unique plants with extraordinary effects on the human body confirmed by numerous scientific studies. In short, it is simply a plant that has a normalizing effect on the body's functions without causing any side effects. In even simpler terms, it restores the body to its natural balance. The key property of all adaptogens is to reduce the effects of stress and adapt the body to unfavorable external conditions. IN WHAT OTHER FORM AND WHERE DO THEY APPEAR? Adaptogens can be taken in the form of capsules, teas or drops. They are also increasingly common in natural cosmetics, having a sensational effect on the skin. So what do they do for it? They strengthen and stimulate cell renewal, improve the skin's ability to defend itself and significantly increase its immunity. They support the natural functions of the skin thanks to the active substances, vitamins, minerals and amino acids contained in them. Each adaptogen prevents the negative effects of free radicals, improves the skin's use of oxygen, normalizes, tones and calms the complexion and calms inflammation. Additionally, thanks to the active substances contained, it can work in a unique way on a specific problem. If your complexion is healthy, firm, full of glow and you have no problems with it, a cream with adaptogens will help you maintain this condition. It is simply worth using! The benefits speak for themselves. Of course! Here is an example text on adaptogens in supplement form, divided into paragraphs: How do adaptogens work in supplements? Adaptogens have a normalizing effect – they regulate the body's response to stress without overstimulating or calming it down. They support the nervous, hormonal and immune systems. In the form of supplements, their effects can be targeted at specific needs – improving concentration, reducing fatigue, supporting sleep or increasing physical endurance. The most common adaptogens include: ashwagandha (Withania somnifera), ginseng (Panax ginseng), rhodiola (Rhodiola rosea), gotu kola (Centella asiatica), and reishi (Ganoderma lucidum). Each of them has slightly different properties, which is why supplements often contain blends of plants in appropriately selected proportions to work synergistically. Adaptogen supplements are usually well tolerated, but like any form of support, they should be used consciously. It is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations and consult a doctor or pharmacist, especially for people taking medications or those with chronic diseases. Adaptogens in the form of supplements are a convenient and effective form of natural support for the body in the face of everyday challenges. Regularly used, they can contribute to improved well-being, resistance to stress and the overall condition of the body. Their growing popularity is confirmed by both the traditions of Eastern medicine and modern scientific research. Bibliography Panossian, A., & Wikman, G. (2010). Effects of adaptogens on the central nervous system and the molecular mechanisms associated with their stress-protective activity. Pharmaceuticals , 3(1), 188-224. Slominski, A. T., et al. (2013). Stress and the skin: from epidemiology to molecular biology. Journal of Investigative Dermatology , 133(5), 975-984. Pillai, S., Oresajo, C., & Hayward, J. (2005). Ultraviolet radiation and skin aging: roles of reactive oxygen species, inflammation and protease activation, and strategies for prevention of inflammation-induced matrix degradation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science , 27(1), 17-34. Lee, H. E., et al. (2019). Anti-aging effects of ginsenoside Rg3 on skin via upregulation of collagen synthesis. Journal of Ginseng Research , 43(3), 394-400. Ishaque, S., Shamseer, L., Bukutu, C., & Vohra, S. (2012). Rhodiola rosea for physical and mental fatigue: a systematic review. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine , 12, 70. Mishra, L. C., Singh, B. B., & Dagenais, S. (2000). Scientific basis for the therapeutic use of Withania somnifera (ashwagandha): a review. Alternative Medicine Review , 5(4), 334-346. De Sanctis, R., et al. (2012). New biological aspects of Rhodiola rosea. Journal of Medicinal Plants Research , 6(4), 534-539. Wachtel-Galor, S., & Benzie, I. F. (2011). Ganoderma lucidum (Lingzhi or Reishi). In Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects . CRC Press. Mondal, S., et al. (2009). Scientific basis for the therapeutic use of Ocimum sanctum (Tulsi) in medicine. Indian Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology , 53(4), 291-306. Shin, S. M., et al. (2017). Ginsenoside Re suppresses UVB-induced melanogenesis in human melanocytes and a human skin equivalent model. Journal of Ginseng Research , 41(4), 450-456. Donovan, S. M., et al. (2021). Oral supplementation with adaptogens improves skin hydration and elasticity: a randomized controlled trial. Dermatologic Therapy , 34(1), e14630.

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June 10, 2025

What to wear under SPF in the summer? A beautician advises how to prepare your skin for the sun

Summer is a time of intense sun, high temperatures and… frequent mistakes in skin care. Most people know that a sunscreen is a must-have in the routine, but still few of us think about what should be under the SPF for the face . And it is the well-chosen base layer that can determine the effectiveness of sun protection, the comfort of wearing the filter, and even the condition of the skin after a whole day of exposure to UV rays. As a beautician, I often hear questions like: Is it enough to apply just a filter? Can I use a vitamin C serum under SPF? What about hydration? The answer is not clear-cut – it all depends on the needs of the skin, the type of cosmetic with a filter and the conditions we live in. SPF for the face is just one part of the puzzle – what is underneath it is equally important. In this article I explain: why it is worth applying care under the cream with a filter, what ingredients work best in summer, which formulas work with SPF and which can weaken its effect, and what the perfect morning routine looks like during the sun season. Let's start with the basics - why use anything under SPF on your face at all? Why is it worth applying something under SPF on your face? A sunscreen is one of the most important skincare products – it protects the skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation, prevents photoaging and discoloration. However, for SPF to be effective and not burden the skin, it should be part of a well-planned morning routine. The filter alone is not enough – it is worth preparing the complexion for its application by using appropriate base cosmetics. Better filter adhesion and efficiency Well-moisturized and smooth skin is the perfect base for any sunscreen. SPF for the face spreads better and doesn't roll if you apply a light serum or moisturizer beforehand. This way, you can be sure that the sunscreen will work evenly and effectively. Strengthening antioxidant protection UV radiation not only damages the DNA of skin cells, but also generates so-called oxidative stress , which accelerates the aging process. That is why cosmetologists recommend using a serum with vitamin C or other antioxidants under SPF for the face - it is an effective shield against free radicals. Studies show that the combination of vitamin C and sun filters significantly increases photoprotection. Moisturizing and protecting the skin barrier High temperatures, sun and air conditioning can lead to dehydration of the epidermis. Sunscreen alone is often not enough, especially if it contains alcohol or mattifying ingredients. Therefore, it is worth applying a cosmetic with hyaluronic acid, trehalose or squalane under the SPF for the face , which will provide the right level of hydration and prevent the feeling of tightness. Comfortable to wear all day long Properly selected care under SPF makes the skin look fresh, not too shiny, and the filter does not "cake" or boil. This is especially important when you use makeup - a care base under the filter improves its durability and aesthetics on the face. So if you want your face SPF to do its job not only on paper but in reality, don't skip the base care stage. Light, moisturizing and antioxidant formulas will help your skin better withstand sun exposure and provide comfort all day long. Great! Here's another part of a blog post written by a beautician, with an emphasis on the SEO phrase "face SPF" : Features of the perfect SPF face cosmetics for summer In the summer, skin care must be light, effective and well thought out. High temperatures, humidity, sweat and excess sebum mean that every additional layer on the face can affect the comfort of the entire day. Therefore, if you reach for SPF for the face , also consider what cosmetics to apply under the filter , so as not to overload the skin and not weaken the protective effect. Light, quickly absorbed formulas Gel, water or water-emulsion products work best under SPF for the face . They should absorb quickly and not leave a greasy film. Serums and essences that do not negatively affect the durability of filters or cause them to roll are well tolerated. Examples of ideal consistencies: Ashwagandha ampoule serum Tremella serum elixir. Hello Papaya Vitamin C Serum Snail Slime Essence Non-comedogenic and oil-free compositions In the summer, many people struggle with excessive skin shine and clogged pores. That is why it is worth using non-comedogenic cosmetics under SPF for the face , free of heavy oils or waxes. Such formulas not only prevent imperfections, but also work better with chemical and mineral filters. Active ingredients supporting UV protection Some substances not only “get along” well with SPF, but actually enhance its effects. These include: Vitamin C and E – strong antioxidants that increase the effectiveness of sun protection, ashwagandha - a strong antioxidant, it eliminates free radicals produced by radiation niacinamide – regulates sebum, has anti-inflammatory and brightening effects, hyaluronic acid – binds water and protects the skin against dehydration, CICA (Centella Asiatica) – soothes, regenerates and protects blood vessels Minimalist and compatible compositions Cosmetics under SPF should be well thought out – the fewer irritating ingredients, the better. Avoid too intensive AHA/BHA acids, retinoids and exfoliating products in the morning. The ideal care under SPF for the face is one that supports the epidermal barrier, does not interact with the filter and does not cause irritation. A beautician's tip Remember – not every cosmetic will work well with a sunscreen. If your face SPF is rolling, shining or “cakey”, it is worth taking a look at the previous layers of care. Sometimes it is enough to change the serum to a lighter one or skip the cream to improve the durability of the sun protection. Properly selected active ingredients not only do not interfere with sunscreens, but can actually enhance the effect of SPF for the face , support the skin in the fight against free radicals and prevent discoloration. Below is a list of substances that are worth using in a serum or light cream under SPF in the summer - also in the context of daily antioxidant care. The best active ingredients for facial SPF Properly selected active ingredients not only do not interfere with sunscreens, but can actually enhance the effect of SPF for the face , support the skin in the fight against free radicals and prevent discoloration. Below I discuss a list of substances that are worth using in a serum or light cream under SPF in the summer - also in the context of daily antioxidant care. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid and derivatives) Vitamin C plays a key role in summer care - one of the best-studied and most effective antioxidants. In the form of ascorbic acid or its stable derivatives such as ethylated vitamin C, it neutralizes free radicals formed under the influence of UV radiation, and thus really supports the action of sunscreens. Regular use of a serum with vitamin C in the morning, under SPF for the face , not only strengthens the antioxidant protection of the skin, but also prevents discoloration and evens out the skin tone. This is an excellent choice for people with gray, tired skin prone to pigmentation irregularities - and at the same time an ideal base for a filter, because modern vitamin C formulas are light, watery and well absorbed. Niacinamide The second ingredient that is worth including in your morning routine before applying SPF to your face is niacinamide – also known as vitamin B3. This substance is famous for its versatility and very good skin tolerance. It has anti-inflammatory effects, regulates sebum secretion, strengthens the epidermal barrier and has a depigmenting effect – which is why it is especially recommended for people struggling with sun or acne discolorations. Niacinamide is also great for oily and combination skin, because it has a mattifying and soothing effect, which helps maintain comfort even on hot days. When combined with sunscreens, it creates a harmonious duo – it protects the skin from photodamage and at the same time supports its natural defense mechanisms. Hyaluronic acid (in various forms) We cannot forget about the ingredient that ensures the comfort of wearing SPF even on the hottest days – hyaluronic acid. This physiological humectant, naturally occurring in our skin, has the ability to bind water in the epidermis and maintain the appropriate level of hydration. Thanks to its lightness and compatibility with other ingredients, it is perfect for use under SPF for the face – it does not burden the complexion, does not interfere with filters and provides comfort throughout the day. Hyaluronic acid in various molecular forms (high- and low-molecular) effectively improves skin elasticity, reduces the feeling of tightness after applying the filter and facilitates the distribution of protective cosmetics. This is an inconspicuous but extremely important ingredient in summer care for all types of skin – including dry, reactive and mature skin. Plant antioxidants – a natural shield for the skin Schizandra Chinensis (Chinese Schisandra) - antioxidant shield Schisandra chinensis extract is a source of lignans and flavonoids – compounds with strong antioxidant properties. It protects the skin from environmental damage, improves its resistance to stress, and at the same time has soothing and anti-inflammatory effects. It is an excellent ingredient to use under SPF for the face in the summer , especially in conditions of urban smog and strong sunlight. Rhodiola Rosea (Rhodiola rosea) – an adaptogen that protects against cellular stress An adaptogenic root that acts as a biological shield – it helps the skin adapt to harsh environmental conditions, such as UV radiation, pollution and extreme temperatures. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, supports regeneration and slows down the aging process. Withania Somnifera (ashwagandha) – Ayurvedic antioxidant and soothing adaptogen Ashwagandha, known in Ayurveda, has a calming effect on skin stressed by the sun and external factors. The withanolides contained in the root have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and protective properties. It is a great choice under SPF for the face , especially for dry, reactive and dehydrated skin. Centella Asiatica (Asian Pennywort) – soothing and regenerating Asiatic pennywort has a soothing, regenerating and strengthening effect. Madecassoside and asiaticoside support the processes of epidermal regeneration, protect against oxidative stress and strengthen blood vessels. An ingredient recommended under SPF , especially in the care of vascular and sensitive skin. Formulas to avoid under face SPF Choosing the right care for your sunscreen is crucial not only for the comfort of wearing the product, but above all for the effectiveness of UV protection. Although SPF for the face is a pillar of the summer routine, not every product we apply under the filter works to its advantage. Some ingredients or formulas can reduce its stability, cause it to roll on the skin, or intensify imperfections and shine. It's worth knowing what to avoid - especially on hot, humid days, when the skin reacts more quickly to overload. The first category of ingredients to avoid under SPF are heavy emollients, i.e. fatty oils, butters and waxes, especially in high concentrations. Although they can be helpful in night-time regeneration, their application in the morning - under a cream with a filter - often ends with excessive shine, a sticky feeling or even clogging of pores. A heavy lipid layer can also interfere with the adhesion and distribution of the filter, leading to its uneven distribution and reduced effectiveness of sun protection. As a result, SPF for the face does not work as it should - and the comfort of wearing it drastically decreases. The second mistake is reaching for active cosmetics with exfoliating or irritating effects in the morning, especially those containing high concentrations of AHA and BHA acids, retinol or retinoids . Although these ingredients are great for evening care, in the morning they can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation and increase the risk of discoloration. What's more, applying such preparations under SPF for the face in the middle of summer, without precise knowledge of their phototoxicity, can lead to micro-irritations, dryness and hyperreactivity of the skin. Another problem may be excessive layering of care – i.e. too many products before applying the filter. Although many people like comprehensive routines, applying several layers of serums, creams, oils and boosters can lead to the so-called "rolling" of SPF, i.e. its unsightly abrasion during the day. Additionally, it increases the risk of interaction of ingredients and destabilization of sun protection. In the summer, it is worth relying on the principle of "less is more" – one well-chosen active product and a light moisturizing cream will definitely be enough under SPF for the face . You should also avoid products with unpredictable compatibility with filters – especially cosmetics with strong silicones, highly pigmented or with a pronounced lifting effect (e.g. with a high content of filmformers). Although they often provide an “instant smoothing effect”, they can cause the facial SPF to roll or not combine well with makeup. Beautician's tip: If your sunscreen doesn't spread well, is heavy or leaves streaks - the problem may not be the SPF itself, but the care you applied beforehand. Sometimes it's enough to reduce the number of layers or change the cream formula to a lighter one to notice a huge difference in comfort and effectiveness of protection. How to apply SPF care step by step? For facial SPF to work effectively and provide the declared sun protection, not only its quality is crucial, but also the method of application and skin preparation. Every morning skincare routine should be well thought out, light and adapted to the current needs of the skin. Excessive products, poorly selected formulas or incorrect order can cause even the best sunscreen to fail to fulfill its function. Here's how to properly apply skincare under SPF - step by step. Start by thoroughly but gently cleansing your skin. In the summer, when sweating and sebum production increase, it is worth reaching for SLS-free cleansing foams or gels, which effectively remove the remains of night care without damaging the hydrolipid barrier. Cleansed skin absorbs active ingredients better and allows the filter to distribute evenly. The next step is toning – restoring the skin's natural pH after washing and gently moisturizing it. Choose toners or water essences with mild humectants, e.g. glycerin or aloe, which will prepare the skin to receive the serum. This step is often skipped, which is a pity – toning improves the absorption of subsequent cosmetics and minimizes the feeling of dryness after SPF, especially if you use mattifying filters. Next comes the serum – this is where you incorporate active ingredients that support sun protection, such as vitamin C, niacinamide, schisandra, ashwagandha or rhodiola rosea . Choose a serum with a light, water-gel formula – it will absorb quickly, will not burden the skin and will be an active base for facial SPF . The serum should be adapted to the skin type and its needs: antioxidant for mature skin, mattifying for oily skin, regenerating for sensitive skin. The next step is a moisturizer , although it is not always necessary. If your SPF contains moisturizers and has a comfortable consistency, you can use it without a previous cream. However, if you have dry, dehydrated skin or use a filter that tends to dry out, a light moisturizer (e.g. with hyaluronic acid, trehalose or algae) will be a great support. Just be careful not to overdo it with the number of layers - too rich a cream can cause the SPF for the face to roll. Finally, apply a sunscreen – preferably SPF 30 or SPF 50 , selected for your skin type (mineral or chemical, light fluid, cream-gel or emulsion). Apply it generously – the face requires about half a teaspoon of cream to achieve the level of protection declared by the manufacturer. Allow the SPF to absorb well before moving on to makeup or the next steps. Beautician's tip: Remember – proper SPF application is not only about choosing a good product, but also about consciously preparing your skin. With light, well-chosen active cosmetics and the right order of steps, SPF for the face will work effectively all day long – and you will avoid irritation, shine and discoloration. FAQ – the most frequently asked questions by patients at a beauty salon Choosing and properly applying SPF to your face is one of the most common topics during cosmetic consultations, especially in the spring and summer. Below you will find answers to questions that my patients regularly ask – maybe they will also dispel your doubts. Can facial SPF replace moisturizer? Yes, but not always. Many modern sunscreens contain moisturizing ingredients, but they are usually not enough in the summer. It is worth applying a water serum (for example, one of the SPF ampoule serums) or a light moisturizing cream (for example, a vitamin C cream or a tremella cream) beforehand. Should I use a serum or cream under SPF? It depends on the needs of the skin. If the filter itself is comfortable, the serum will be enough. For dry or irritated skin, it is worth adding a moisturiser. The most important thing is not to overload the skin with too many layers - the priority is for the SPF for the face to spread well and not roll. My patients praise the serum ampoules under the SPF. Can retinol be used in summer under SPF? Retinol itself is not photosensitizing, but it increases the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation, so its use in the summer requires great caution. If you continue the treatment, take care of regeneration, strong hydration and daily, high SPF protection for the face SPF 50. However, it is safest to limit retinoids to evening care, take a break in the summer season or choose Retinol H10 (hydrogenated), which is not irritating. Can I apply SPF directly to cleansed skin? Theoretically yes, but it is not an optimal solution. Skin without a moisturizing layer loses water faster, which can affect the comfort of wearing the filter. Even a thin layer of toner and a light serum can significantly improve the durability and quality of SPF application to the face . Why does SPF roll or wear off ? The most common reason is incompatibility with previous care – too greasy cream, too many silicones or layering too many products. It is worth testing different configurations and opting for minimalist, light formulas under the filter. Do I need to reapply SPF during the day if I'm not at the beach? Yes, if you are exposed to sunlight for many hours – even in the city. Facial SPF loses its effectiveness after a few hours, especially if you sweat, touch your face or wear makeup. Does SPF clog pores? Not everyone. Modern SPF formulas are becoming lighter, non-comedogenic and suited to different skin types. When choosing SPF for your face, pay attention to its composition – avoid heavy oils, waxes and comedogenic filters if you tend to have imperfections. However, always wash off SPF in the evening. The best solution to ensure no pore clogging is a two-step cleansing. First, a Makeup Removal Oil, then a foam or gel. How to combine SPF with makeup? After applying sunscreen, wait a few minutes for the product to absorb. Avoid rubbing and apply makeup gently – preferably with a sponge or fingers. SPF for the face in a light emulsion or cream-gel works well with mineral foundations and light BB creams. My Summary – Take Care of Your SPF Care and Your Skin Will Thank You Proper sun protection is more than just choosing a good filter. For facial SPF to be effective, it should be applied to properly prepared skin – moisturized, strengthened and protected from oxidative stress. It is worth taking care of light formulas, active antioxidant ingredients and avoiding cosmetics that may interfere with its action. As a beautician, I see how much of an impact your daily routine has on your skin's condition - especially in the summer. Proper care under SPF for your face not only increases the effectiveness of sun protection, but also reduces the formation of discolorations, wrinkles and dryness. The key is a conscious, consistent approach and avoiding random layers that don't cooperate with your skin - or the filter. If you want to choose the right products for SPF or need a light, effective antioxidant serum for the day – reach for proven solutions with natural ingredients and a light, gel base. The skin really needs less in the summer – but wisely selected. Check out the range of serums and creams under SPF available at Orientana – based on plant adaptogens and antioxidants, ideal for summer. Żaneta Pasierkiewicz - Orientana beautician

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September 9, 2024

Antioxidation - 6 adaptogens

Antioxidation is one of the key issues in modern dermatology and cosmetology, especially in the context of skin care. Understanding how antioxidant works and what it means for the skin is important not only for those involved in professional skin care, but also for anyone who wants to take care of their health and appearance. What is antioxidant? Antioxidation is the process of antioxidants neutralizing free radicals. Free radicals are reactive molecules that can be created in the body by various factors, such as UV radiation, environmental pollution, smoking, stress, unhealthy diet, and metabolic processes in cells. Free radicals have one or more unpaired electrons, making them highly reactive and tend to "take" an electron from other molecules, which leads to cell damage. Free radicals and the skin The skin is the largest organ of the human body and the first line of defense against external factors. It is exposed to constant contact with various harmful substances, which makes it particularly susceptible to free radicals. The main sources of free radicals that can affect the skin are solar radiation, air pollution and oxidative stress. Oxidative stress is a condition in which the balance between free radicals and antioxidants in the body is disturbed Free radicals can damage various skin structures, including proteins, lipids and cellular DNA. Over time, this leads to cell damage, accelerated skin aging, loss of elasticity, wrinkles, discoloration, and the development of inflammation and skin diseases such as acne or even skin cancer. To protect yourself from these premature signs of aging, it is worth reaching for the ANTIOXIDATION Serum Ampoule. ANTIOXIDATION - What Natural Ingredients to Consider Antioxidants are ingredients that can neutralize free radicals, preventing damage to skin cells. They work by donating an electron to free radicals, stabilizing them and preventing further damage. Various antioxidants are often used in skin care products to help protect the skin from the harmful effects of external factors. ANTIOXIDATION - ADAPTOGEN ACTION Adaptogens are natural substances that help the body adapt to stress and restore balance in the body. Antioxidation, or the fight against aging, is the task of many adaptogens. They can neutralize free radicals and protect cells from damage. Here are some of the strongest adaptogens that we use as ingredients in Orientana cosmetics: Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) Ashwagandha is one of the most well-known adaptogenic herbs. It has strong antioxidant properties that help neutralize free radicals and protect cells from oxidative stress. It is also valued for its ability to improve immune system function and support mental and physical health. You will find it in the latest Serach Ampoules; MOISTURIZING, REJUVENATION, BRIGHTENING and ANTIOXIDATION. Its effects are confirmed by scientific research . ASIAN CENTRYWORK Centella asiatica is known for its beneficial effects on the skin, which makes it popular in dermatological preparations. It contains triterpenoids (such as asiaticoside, madecassoside), which support collagen synthesis, accelerate wound healing, scars and reduce skin inflammation. Centella is also used in the treatment of acne, cellulite, stretch marks, as well as in the care of aging skin. Centella asiatica is one of the ingredients of Reishi Day Face Cream . Its action in this cream is precisely antioxidant. Rhodiola (Rhodiola rosea) Rhodiola, also known as Rhodiola rosea, is an adaptogen that helps fight stress, fatigue, and improves physical and mental performance. Rhodiola has strong antioxidant properties that protect cells from damage caused by free radicals. Additionally, it supports heart health and cognitive function. This active ingredient is found in the GLOW Illuminating Booster . Reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) Reishi is an adaptogen known for its wide range of health benefits. Its powerful antioxidant properties help protect the body from oxidative stress and also support the immune system. Reishi is often used in traditional Chinese medicine to support liver, heart, and mental health. You’ll find this powerful adaptogen in the entire Reishi series . Schisandra (Schisandra chinensis) Schisandra is an adaptogenic berry that is rich in lignans, known for its strong antioxidant properties. Schisandra (Chinese magnolia berry) helps protect the liver, supports immunity, and also improves concentration and endurance. It has a protective effect on cells, neutralizing free radicals and preventing oxidative damage. Serum Ampoule Antioxidation is a cosmetic with this ingredient. Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) Tulsi, also known as holy basil, is an adaptogen with powerful antioxidant properties. It contains compounds like eugenol that help protect cells from oxidative stress. Tulsi is also known for its anti-inflammatory properties. You’ll find it in Aftershave Balm. How to provide antioxidants to the skin? Regular use of products containing antioxidants brings many benefits to the skin. First of all, they protect against premature skin aging, improving its appearance and health. Antioxidants reduce the visibility of wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and reduce discoloration. In addition, antioxidants support skin regeneration, which helps heal wounds and minimize damage caused by external factors. Due to their properties, antioxidants can also have an anti-inflammatory effect, which is especially important in the treatment and prevention of skin diseases such as acne, psoriasis or eczema. They protect skin cells from damage, which can help reduce the risk of skin cancer. Antioxidants can be delivered to the skin in several ways. They are most commonly applied externally in the form of creams, serums, masks, and other cosmetic products. These products are formulated to deliver the right dose of antioxidants to the skin, which penetrate deep into the skin, providing protection and regeneration. In addition, antioxidants can also be supplied from the inside through a proper diet. Eating fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds that are rich in antioxidants helps maintain healthy skin. Products rich in vitamin C, E, beta-carotene, selenium and flavonoids and supplementation are particularly valuable. The importance of an antioxidant-rich diet A diet rich in antioxidants plays a key role in protecting the skin from the harmful effects of free radicals. Eating foods rich in vitamins, minerals, and other antioxidant compounds supports not only the health of the skin, but also the overall health of the body. Examples of foods rich in antioxidants include: blueberries, strawberries, citrus fruits, broccoli, spinach, carrots, nuts, chia seeds, green tea, dark chocolate, and red wine, or rather resveratrol, which in healthy terms means wine without alcohol. Regular consumption of these foods helps fight oxidative stress and supports skin health in the long run. Summary Antioxidation is a key protective process that plays an extremely important role in maintaining the health and youthful appearance of the skin. Free radicals, created as a result of various external and internal factors, can lead to serious skin damage, accelerated aging and the development of skin diseases. Antioxidants, thanks to their ability to neutralize free radicals, are an effective protective barrier for the skin. Using cosmetics containing antioxidants, as well as taking care of a diet rich in these valuable substances, allows you to maintain healthy, elastic and radiant skin. In the context of daily skin care, antioxidation is not only a trend, but the foundation of a healthy appearance and effective prevention of premature aging.

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