TEWL - what is it and why is it crucial for the skin?
TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) is the natural process of water loss through the epidermis. In healthy skin, this is controlled and is a physiological process. Problems arise when TEWL increases beyond normal, causing the skin to become dehydrated, lose comfort, and overreact.
It is the increased TEWL that is responsible for:
- burning skin
- feeling of tension
- hyperreactivity to cosmetics
- dryness despite the use of creams
In practice, this means one thing:
Your skin can't retain water
How does TEWL work?
Water in the skin moves from deeper layers to the surface and evaporates. This process is regulated by the hydrolipid barrier.
This barrier consists of:
- ceramides (approx. 50%)
- cholesterol
- free fatty acids
They form a structure called:
lipid matrix (intercellular cement)
What happens when the barrier is damaged?
- the lipid structure relaxes
- water escapes faster
- the skin becomes dehydrated
effect:
- baking
- pinching
- hypersensitivity
TEWL in numbers
- healthy skin: approx. 4–10 g/m²/h
- damaged skin: up to 15–25 g/m²/h
the higher the TEWL:
- the greater the dehydration
- the greater the skin reactivity
Symptoms of high TEWL
- skin tight after washing
- burning sensation in the face
- feeling of dryness despite the cream
- rapid "disappearance" of cosmetics
- hyperreactivity to products
is one of the most frequently unrecognized skin problems
How to rebuild the hydrolipid barrier
Why does your skin lose water?
1. Too aggressive cleansing
- SLS, SLES
- frequent washing
- no regeneration
remove lipids → increase TEWL
2. Winter and dry air
- heating
- frost
- wind
increase water evaporation
3. Excess active ingredients
- retinol
- acids
- peelings
may damage the barrier
4. Lack of lipids in care
- only a light serum
- no cream
lack of "lock-in" of moisture
5. Stress and hormones
- cortisol weakens the barrier
- decrease in estrogen → less lipids
TEWL and skin types
Dry skin
- naturally higher TEWL
- lack of lipids
Oily skin
- may have high TEWL despite sebum
- a common paradox
Mixed skin
- local TEWL differences
TEWL isn't just about dry skin
TEWL, age and hormones
With age:
- ceramide production decreases
- the barrier is weakening
Hormones:
- estrogen strengthens the barrier
- its decrease → increase in TEWL
that's why skin becomes more sensitive with age
TEWL and skin burning
if skin:
- bakes in winter
- burning sensation after cosmetics
in most cases TEWL is elevated
Check the symptoms and cosmetics for sensitive skin
How to reduce TEWL?
1. Cleansing - the foundation
- gentle facial cleansing gel with gluconolactone
- foam with panthenol
Effect:
- no barrier damage
2. Toning – water retention
tonic-essence with gluconolactone
Action:
- increases hydration
- reduces TEWL
3. Serum – skin protection
- trehalose serum
- tremella serum
Effect:
- protective film
-
reducing skin stress
4. Cream - a key step
Without cream:
- water escapes
- TEWL is growing
Orientana anti-TEWL routine (day and night)
In the morning:
- gentle cleansing - soothing facial wash gel or foam
- tonic-essence
- moisturizing serum or soothing serum
-
TEWL-stopping cream
Evening:
- cleansing ( duo-step if using makeup or cream with SPF)
- toning
- serum for your skin problem
- cream adapted to the skin
minimalism = best effect
Ingredients that reduce TEWL
- ceramides
- panthenol
- niacinamide
- ectoine
- mucin
Ingredients that increase TEWL (when used incorrectly)
- alcohol
- strong acids
- aggressive detergents
- retinol during retinization
How to recognize high TEWL?
- skin tight after washing
- rapid loss of moisture
- baking
- hyperreactivity
How to quickly reduce TEWL?
- limit cleansing
- introduce soothing ingredients
- use cream
- avoid hot water
- put aside the peelings
The most common mistakes
- no cream
- washing too often
- excess active ingredients
- ignoring symptoms
Also read: Why does your skin sting after using cosmetics?
FAQ
What is TEWL?
This is transepidermal water loss through the skin.
Is TEWL bad?
No, but too much of it leads to problems.
How to reduce TEWL?
By rebuilding the skin barrier.
Does TEWL cause skin burning?
Yes, dehydrated skin is more sensitive.
Does TEWL increase in winter?
Yes, because of the dry air.
Can oily skin have high TEWL?
Yes, this is a common problem.
Does the cream reduce TEWL?
Yes, if it contains the right ingredients.
Does stress increase TEWL?
Yes, by affecting the skin barrier.
Summary
TEWL is one of the most important mechanisms of the skin.
when growing:
- the skin becomes dehydrated
- bakes
- becomes sensitive
Best strategy:
- reconstruction of the barrier
- gentle care
- appropriate ingredients
If you are interested in an approach based on balance and skin biology, check out our natural cosmetics section.
