4 cosmetics for combination skin - how the series with tremella mushroom was created

Combination skin cosmetics are a new product that has just entered the Orientan offer. Where did the idea come from? Why is the base ingredient tremella? If you are interested, I will tell you how this series was created - writes: Ania Wasilewska, founder of the brand.

Give us cosmetics for combination skin! We want strong hydration!

I once met up with my friends for coffee. We were chatting about girly topics and then we moved on to cosmetics - a topic often discussed during our meetings. I then collect feedback from my friends, and they are happy to share it with me, and I know I can rely on their assessment, because they always say what they think. It so happened that most of them had one skin type, because this type often manifests itself in the 40+ period. And so the complaining began...

"I can't find anything that's truly moisturizing but doesn't clog pores."

"My skin is a joke. Dry here, oily there, and by evening it's tight as parchment again."

"My forehead is shiny and I have dry skin around my nose. Nothing works on it for more than two hours."

They all had combination skin, and then the question arose:
"Why don't you do something to properly moisturize and soothe combination skin?", "Give us cosmetics for combination skin!"

And they left me with my problems. I thought, "Okay, I'll look for a leading ingredient, but it has to be something better than hyaluronic acid"!

NOTE from Taiwan

The question of cosmetics for combination skin was very much on my mind. At Orientana we had a cream for combination skin, but we didn't have a complete series. Besides, I had been thinking for a long time about replacing this cream with something even better. So I started my process with researching the ingredient and started looking through my notes from courses I had attended in Asia.

In my notebook I found an entry from Taiwan. I went there quite often because we had a silk sheet mask production there. I also took part in a natural medicine course that I signed up for there. It was one of the stages of my early education.

I remembered the lessons on skin moisturising. We drank a delicate, slightly sweet infusion from an almost transparent mushroom resembling a snow cloud. The teacher called it the beauty mushroom. Apparently, this ingredient was used in ancient China as a strongly moisturising ingredient. They said it was like rain for dry land. They ate this mushroom and also made a moisturising tonic from it - very easy to make at home.

The Magic Ingredient - Snow Mushroom!

It was tremella (INCI Tremella Fuciformis ). A mushroom that can retain water like no other ingredient. Called the snow mushroom or beauty mushroom, it moisturizes better than hyaluronic acid. In addition, it is an edible mushroom, and you know that my rule in creating cosmetics is: apply to your skin and hair what you can eat!

I thought that maybe this ingredient would be perfect as a hero ingredient for combination skin cosmetics. Something that will hydrate the skin for a long time , and at the same time will not clog pores and leave a greasy film . A cosmetic that will work on dry and oily skin at the same time. Combination skin needs good hydration, but it also has undesirable symptoms (enlarged pores, local overproduction of sebum), so I set myself the task of creating a series that will take care of combination skin comprehensively - ideal cosmetics for combination skin.

Of course, discovering this ingredient is one thing, and preclinical and clinical studies of tremella are another matter. I had to check if it was an ingredient tested for skin and what care results it gives. I started looking for studies. I never base the effects of active ingredients only on knowledge from traditional Asian medicine. All of our ingredients have scientifically proven effects.

Tremella - scientific research

Tremella in the form of a dried mushroom, absorbs water and increases its volume many times (even up to 10 times). When hydrated, it becomes soft, gelatinous, elastic and transparent - it regains its natural, "gel" consistency.

From published scientific reports I have learned that when soaked, tremella releases polysaccharides that partially dissolve in water , creating a slightly viscous, gel-like solution. These polysaccharides (mainly mannoglycans and uronic acids) are responsible for the moisturizing and anti-aging properties. Uronic acids are the building blocks of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), which provide skin with elasticity, firmness, and hydration.

Studies have shown that tremella is a more effective moisturising ingredient than hyaluronic acid because its molecules are smaller and can therefore penetrate deeper into the skin more effectively.

The studies I had access to were studies of the moisturizing properties of polysaccharides from T. fuciformis, confirming their effectiveness in retaining moisture in the skin. It also turned out that tremella has anti-aging effects, partially photoprotective , supporting wound healing and protecting the skin barrier . In vitro studies have shown that polysaccharides from T. fuciformis protect skin fibroblasts from oxidative stress .

Studies have shown that Tremella fuciformis contains significant amounts of ergosterol, which is converted to vitamin D₂ when exposed to UVB radiation. One study found that the vitamin D₂ content of mushroom samples exposed to 180 minutes of light was 292.02 µg/g dry weight , which exceeded levels in other popular edible mushrooms such as button mushrooms and shiitake. Moreover, this is due to artificial light, which is provided when the mushroom is grown.

Ergosterol has antioxidant properties, helping to neutralize free radicals and protect skin cells from oxidative stress. Additionally, its presence can support anti-inflammatory effects, which is beneficial in the care of sensitive and irritation-prone skin.

Vitamin D₂, derived from ergosterol, plays a role in maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier and in the regenerative processes of the epidermis. Its presence can support the healthy appearance of the skin and its ability to retain moisture.

Tremella is also a rich source of natural beta-glucans. Beta-glucans are natural sugars made up of glucose units, found in yeast, oats, barley, and mushrooms such as tremella and reishi.

In cosmetology and skin care, beta-glucans soothe irritations and inflammations, accelerate epidermal regeneration, strengthen the skin's hydrolipid barrier and stimulate collagen synthesis, improving skin firmness and elasticity.

Tremella is a bullseye! Another functional mushroom that has documented skin care properties. Perfect to represent combination skin cosmetics!

cosmetics for combination skin - additional ingredients

However, to make these the perfect cosmetics for combination skin, I lacked ingredients that would effectively regulate sebum, reduce pores and eliminate imperfections. I chose the best ones.

Sebum regulating cream

Ingredients: tremella, Niacinamide, Pore out, squalane, jojoba oil, argan oil, butterfly pea

Hydrating Serum Elixir

Ingredients: tremella, exosomes, lactic acid, aloe,

Mask that soothes imperfections

Ingredients: tremella, tamanu oil, azelaic acid, glutathione, squalane

Nourishing eye cream

I complemented the series with a rich eye cream with tremella, ceramides and avocado .

When testing the first samples I was very excited because I invited my colleagues to the project. In addition, as usual, almost the entire office tested. The testers were very demanding, we perfected the products for over half a year. We were all delighted with the final effect! I hope you will like this series too.

Of course! Here is a chapter on the discovery and use of the Tremella fuciformis mushroom by Americans, with particular emphasis on its properties in dietary supplements:

Not only cosmetics for combination skin but also 21st century superfoods

Although Tremella fuciformis , also known as snow mushroom, has been a valued ingredient in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) for centuries, its global career ........ began relatively recently – with the growing interest in functional medicine and adaptogens in the United States. It is American scientists, manufacturers and wellness influencers who have made Tremella a top superfood of the 21st century.

American discovery of the "beauty mushroom"

In the 1990s, the United States saw a boom in exotic plant and mushroom ingredients that offered more than just nutritional value—they were meant to support longevity, skin health, and immunity. Tremella, previously virtually unknown in the West, caught the attention of researchers because of its unique properties:

• extremely high polysaccharide content,
• moisturizing effect comparable to hyaluronic acid,
• influence on collagen production ,
• and antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects .

The first studies conducted at American universities confirmed that Tremella extracts can effectively bind water in the skin, support tissue elasticity and protect cells from oxidative stress.

Tremella – a new star on the functional supplement market

With a growing interest in adaptogens and functional mushrooms such as reishi (Ganoderma lucidum) , chaga (Inonotus obliquus) and lion's mane (Hericium erinaceus) , the American supplement industry quickly recognized the potential of Tremella fuciformis , a mushroom also known as "snow ear" or "white jelly." Initially popular mainly in traditional medicine in East Asian countries, it is now gaining recognition as a natural ingredient supporting health and beauty from the inside.

With its unique bioactive profile, Tremella fits perfectly into the global “beauty from within” trend – the concept that skin care begins with balanced action at the cellular and metabolic level.

The most frequently declared and researched health benefits of Tremella supplementation include:

Moisturizing the skin and improving its appearance

Tremella is characterized by the presence of polysaccharides with strong hygroscopic properties, comparable to, and according to some sources even more effective than hyaluronic acid. These ingredients support water retention in the epidermis, contributing to better skin hydration, elasticity and firmness.

Antioxidant and detoxifying effect

The presence of antioxidant compounds, such as ergosterol, mannitol and the aforementioned polysaccharides, makes Tremella effectively support the neutralization of free radicals. This in turn can support the body's natural cleansing mechanisms and reduce oxidative stress.

Slowing down the aging process

Thanks to its antioxidant properties and its influence on collagen and elastin synthesis, Tremella can help maintain a youthful appearance of the skin. Its regular use in supplementation can help reduce fine wrinkles and improve skin structure.

Strengthening the immune system

Studies indicate that polysaccharides from Tremella fuciformis have immunomodulatory effects – they stimulate macrophage activity and increase cytokine production, which translates into better body immunity.

Form of occurrence in supplements

In oral preparations, Tremella is most often found in the form of an extract standardized for polysaccharide content (usually 30–50%). This form ensures repeatability of action and enables precise dosing of the active ingredient. In dietary supplements, it can be found in the form of capsules as well as powders for preparing a functional drink, sometimes combined with other medicinal mushrooms, vitamin C or collagen.

Why did Tremella win the hearts of American consumers?

Beyond its health benefits, Tremella fits the American narrative of “clean” and “natural” ingredients —it’s vegan, non-toxic, cruelty-free, and effective. Wellness influencers and healthy lifestyle brands have begun referring to it as “ plant-based hyaluronic acid ,” which has only served to amplify its marketing appeal.

So this inconspicuous but beautiful mushroom is the hero of our care. It perfectly supported our cosmetics for combination skin. I hope that the Hydro Tremella cosmetics series will work for you too.

Anna Wasilewska - creator and owner of the Orientana brand

Some of the research I used:

1. The potential cutaneous benefits of Tremella fuciformis, Archives of Dermatological Research 2023,
2. Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide suppresses hydrogen peroxide-triggered injury of human skin fibroblasts via upregulation of SIRT1, Molecular Medicine Reports, 2017
3. Tremella fuciformis polysaccharides alleviates induced atopic dermatitis in mice by regulating immune response and gut microbiota, Frontiers in Pharmacology, 2022
4. Tremella fuciformis Inhibits Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells and Promotes Wound Healing in Human Keratinocytes and Fibroblasts, In Vivo, 2022
5. Study on the structure characterization and moisturizing effect of Tremella fuciformis polysaccharide, Food, science and human wellness, 2021