polysaccharides in cosmetics

Polysaccharides constitute an important group of active ingredients in cosmetology, characterized by a wide spectrum of biological and physicochemical properties.

POLYSACCHARIDES - WHAT ARE THEY?

These are polysaccharides composed of monosaccharides linked by glycosidic bonds. Due to their structure and ability to bind water, they have significant moisturizing, protective and regenerative effects.

Particular attention should be paid to natural polysaccharides, which are mainly obtained from plants, algae, microorganisms and fungi. Their presence in cosmetics not only improves the sensory properties of the preparations, but also shows numerous dermatological benefits.

The occurrence of polysaccharides in plants

Polysaccharides occur naturally in various groups of plants, including vegetables, fruits, seeds, and algae. Starch, one of the major plant polysaccharides, is stored in potatoes, corn, rice, wheat, and bananas. Cellulose, in turn, is a structural component of plant cell walls and is abundant in cotton, wood, and leafy vegetables such as spinach and cabbage.

Other important plant polysaccharides include pectins found in apples and citrus fruits and hemicelluloses found in cereal grains and legumes.

TYPES OF PLANT POLYSACCHARIDES

Polysaccharides are high-molecular-weight carbohydrates that play a key role in the plant world, serving both a reserve and structural function.

Depending on the chemical structure and biological function, different groups of these compounds can be distinguished, such as starch, cellulose, beta-glucans and plant mucilages. They occur in many plant species, which are important both in the human diet and in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

One of the most important polysaccharides in plants is starch, which acts as a reserve material. It is found primarily in cereal grains such as wheat, corn, rice, oats and barley, which are the basis of nutrition for people around the world.

The tubers and roots of some plants are also rich in starch, including potatoes, sweet potatoes, cassava (from which tapioca is obtained) and Jerusalem artichoke. In addition, legumes, such as beans, peas, lentils and chickpeas, also contain significant amounts of starch, and additionally provide plant protein.

Another important polysaccharide is cellulose, which has a structural function and is the main component of plant cell walls. It is thanks to it that plants maintain their stiffness and resistance to external factors. Cellulose is found in large quantities in leafy vegetables such as cabbage, lettuce, spinach and kale, as well as in fruits and vegetables rich in fiber, including apples (especially in the skin), pears, carrots and beets. Raw materials rich in cellulose are also fibrous plants, such as flax, hemp and cotton, which are used, among others, for the production of fabrics and paper.

In addition to starch and cellulose, plants also contain other polysaccharides with biologically active effects. Particularly valuable are beta-glucans, which can be found in some mushrooms, such as shiitake, reishi, and maitake. These compounds have immunomodulatory properties and support the body's immunity.

Another valuable source of polysaccharides are seaweeds, especially brown and red algae, which contain agar, carrageenan and alginates. These substances have found wide application in the food and pharmaceutical industries as natural thickeners and stabilizers.

Another group of polysaccharides are plant mucilages, which have protective and moisturizing properties, which is why they are often used in natural medicine and cosmetology. Plants rich in mucilages are primarily flaxseed, marshmallow root, psyllium and psyllium seeds, as well as aloe, which contains acemannan, a polysaccharide known for its anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties.

Plants rich in polysaccharides are an extremely valuable part of the diet and a raw material with a wide range of applications. Starch provides energy, cellulose supports the proper functioning of the digestive system, and biologically active polysaccharides can strengthen immunity and support health. It is therefore worth including a variety of plant products in your daily diet to fully enjoy the benefits of these extraordinary compounds.

Types of polysaccharides according to the number of molecules in the chains

Polysaccharides can be classified based on their chain length and degree of complexity:

• Homopolysaccharides – consist of one type of monosaccharide. Examples include starch and cellulose (made of glucose) and chitin (made of N-acetylglucosamine).
• Heteropolysaccharides – contain different types of monosaccharides. Examples include glycosaminoglycans, such as hyaluronic acid, heparin, and chondroitin sulfate.

In terms of chain length, we can also distinguish:

• Oligosaccharides – short chains (2–10 sugar units), e.g. fructooligosaccharides found in plants.
• High-molecular-weight polysaccharides – long chains, often with a complex structure, e.g. cellulose, hemicelluloses, xanthan gum.

Natural polysaccharides in cosmetology

Polysaccharides of natural origin are key components of moisturizing, anti-aging and protective cosmetics. Their ability to create protective films on the skin surface makes them effective in protecting the epidermis from water loss and the adverse effects of environmental factors. For example, polysaccharides in cosmetology are starch, cellulose, xanthan gum (Xanthan Gum), beta-glucan (Beta Glucan) and the unique biosaccharide gum-1 (Biosaccharide Gum-1), which are characterized by specific properties and mechanisms of action.

Xanthan Gum – stabilizer and moisturizing agent

Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide produced by the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris in the process of fermenting sugars. In cosmetics, it acts as a thickener, emulsion stabilizer and film former.

Thanks to its ability to bind water, it acts as an effective humectant, supporting skin hydration and improving the texture of cosmetic products.

In addition, it has soothing properties, making it suitable for sensitive and irritation-prone skin. Xanthan Gum does not cause allergic reactions and is well tolerated by the skin, which makes it widely used in natural cosmetics and dermocosmetics.

Beta-Glucan (Beta Glucan) – an immunomodulator and regenerating substance

Beta-glucan is a polysaccharide of plant and fungal origin, known for its immunomodulatory and antioxidant properties. In cosmetics, it is used primarily for its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis, which helps improve skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles.

In addition, it has anti-inflammatory effects, supporting the regenerative processes of the epidermis and strengthening the skin's protective barrier. Thanks to its ability to deeply moisturize, beta-glucan reduces skin roughness, improves its softness and soothes irritations, which makes it a valuable ingredient in preparations dedicated to dry, sensitive and atopic skin.

Biosaccharide Gum-1 – long-lasting hydration and anti-aging effect

Biosaccharide gum-1 is a biotechnologically obtained polysaccharide, synthesized in the process of bacterial fermentation. It is valued in cosmetology for its strong moisturizing and soothing properties. It can be found in Kantola Facial Cleansing Foam.

The mechanism of action of this substance is based on the formation of a protective film on the skin surface, which leads to a reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and ensuring a long-lasting moisturizing effect.

Biosaccharide Gum-1 also has anti-aging properties, as it reduces oxidative stress and microwrinkles. Thanks to its soothing effect, this ingredient is used in preparations for sensitive skin and in cosmetics with regenerative and protective effects.

Application of polysaccharides in other industries

Polysaccharides are widely used not only in cosmetology, but also in many other industries where their structural, thickening and biological properties are used.

• Food Industry – Polysaccharides such as starch, pectin, agar and carrageenan are used as thickeners, emulsifiers and gelling agents. Cellulose is used as dietary fibre and xanthan gum improves food consistency and stabilises emulsions.
• Pharmaceuticals and medicine – hyaluronic acid and chitosan are widely used in dermatological, ophthalmic and wound care products. Beta-glucan supports the immune system, and heparin is used as an anticoagulant.
• Textile and paper industry – cellulose is the basic component of cotton fabrics and paper. Modified polysaccharides are used in the treatment of fabrics and as components of biodegradable packaging.
• Biotechnology and environmental protection – polysaccharides such as alginates and chitosan are used in tissue engineering and as biodegradable materials. They are also used in water purification processes and the production of bioplastics.

Hyaluronic acid – a key polysaccharide in cosmetology and medicine

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is one of the most important polysaccharides used in cosmetology and medicine. It is a glycosaminoglycan that occurs naturally in the skin, synovial fluid, vitreous humor of the eye and connective tissues of the body. Its main feature is the ability to bind water - one HA molecule can bind up to a thousand times more water than its mass.

The structure and properties of hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid consists of repeating disaccharide units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine. Its structure allows the formation of dense networks that retain water in tissues, providing the skin with hydration, elasticity and smoothness.

The use of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics and medicine

Properties of hyaluronic acid and its importance in cosmetology

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a natural polysaccharide belonging to glycosaminoglycans, which plays a key role in maintaining skin hydration, elasticity and integrity. It is present in the extracellular matrix, where it has a hygroscopic function, capable of binding water molecules at a level even thousand times greater than its mass. Thanks to this unique property, hyaluronic acid has found wide application in cosmetology, especially in moisturizing, anti-aging and regenerating products.

Hyaluronic acid is a key ingredient in numerous cosmetic products used in facial, body and hair care. Its ability to retain water in the epidermal layers results in increased hydration, which helps improve firmness, elasticity and smooth out fine lines. As a result, it is widely used in:

• Moisturizing and anti-aging creams , where it prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and supports the reconstruction of the skin's hydrolipid layer.
• Lifting serums that contain HA in combination with other active ingredients, e.g. peptides or vitamin C, enhancing the effect of skin smoothing and firming.
• Moisturizing masks , providing immediate hydration and nourishment to the skin by increasing moisture retention.
• Eye care products that reduce the visibility of dark circles and puffiness, and improve the elasticity of the skin around the eyes, preventing the formation of facial wrinkles.
• Hair care cosmetics , where it prevents drying and brittleness by creating a protective film on the hair surface that prevents moisture loss.

Medical use of hyaluronic acid

In addition to its wide use in cosmetology, hyaluronic acid is of great importance in medicine, especially in dermatology, orthopedics, ophthalmology and wound therapy. Its biocompatibility, biodegradability and ability to bind water make it a valuable component of many medical procedures.

• Aesthetic Dermatology : Hyaluronic acid is the basis of many preparations used in aesthetic medicine. Fillers containing HA are used to reduce wrinkles, model the face oval and improve volume around the cheeks, lips and temples. Thanks to its ability to bind water, HA provides an immediate filling effect and long-term moisturizing effect.
• Orthopedics : Intra-articular injections are used to treat osteoarthritis (OA). HA acts as a synovial fluid substitute, improving the viscosity and elasticity of synovial fluid, which results in reduced friction between joint surfaces and reduced pain and inflammation.
• Ophthalmology : Hyaluronic acid is a component of eye drops used to treat dry eye syndrome. Its moisturizing and protective properties support the regeneration of the corneal epithelium and reduce the feeling of dryness and burning eyes.
• Wound healing : HA has properties that support the tissue regeneration process, which is used in the treatment of difficult-to-heal wounds, burns and ulcers. Its ability to stimulate fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis accelerates the healing process and the reconstruction of the epidermis.
• Gynecology : Hyaluronic acid is used to treat vaginal dryness and to support the regeneration of the mucosal epithelium after gynecological procedures. Its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties improve the comfort of women struggling with atrophy of the mucous membranes.

Various forms of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics and medicine

The effectiveness of hyaluronic acid depends largely on the size of its molecules. There are three basic forms of HA, which differ in their ability to penetrate the skin and their mechanism of action:

• High molecular weight hyaluronic acid (HMW-HA) : Creates an occlusive layer on the skin surface that limits water loss. It works primarily at the epidermis level, improving hydration and reducing the feeling of dryness.
• Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid (MMW-HA) : It is able to penetrate the epidermal layer, thanks to which it improves skin elasticity and tension. It can support regeneration and smoothing of fine wrinkles.
• Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA) : Penetrates deepest into the skin structures, where it stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis. Supports repair processes and has anti-aging effects, improving skin density.

Natural polysaccharides play a key role in cosmetology, offering multifaceted benefits to the skin. Their ability to intensively moisturize, protect against external factors and support regenerative processes makes them widely used in modern skin care cosmetics.