In this post I will talk about an ingredient that sometimes appears in Orientana cosmetics.
What is panthenol and why is it so popular?
Panthenol (also known as provitamin B5 ) is an ingredient that has taken the cosmetics industry by storm. While it may not be as widely advertised as hyaluronic acid or retinol, it can be found in a huge number of skincare products. It is a derivative of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid), a substance essential for healthy skin and hair. The name “pantothenic” comes from the Greek pantothen (“omnipresent”), indicating that vitamin B5 is widely found in nature.
In cosmetics, it is valued for its extremely versatile effects: it can simultaneously moisturize, regenerate and soothe the skin, and at the same time is gentle and safe. No wonder it has gained such great popularity - it is a true hero among care ingredients, which effectively takes care of the condition of the skin from head to toe.
Panthenol as provitamin B5 – how does it work?
Chemically speaking, panthenol is the alcohol equivalent of pantothenic acid, or vitamin B5. After application to the skin, it easily penetrates deep into it and is transformed into vitamin B5 , thus supplementing its deficiencies in tissues.
And why is it so important? Well, vitamin B5 plays a key role in the metabolism of skin cells – it supports their growth and renewal. It participates, among others, in the synthesis of coenzyme A, which is essential in the processes of cell regeneration and the production of lipids that build the protective barrier of the epidermis.
In simpler terms, it provides the skin with “fuel” for regeneration , helping it rebuild itself and stay in good condition. What’s more, it is a stable and water-soluble compound, which makes it easy to add to various cosmetic formulas. Its ability to deeply penetrate the skin means that it works not only on its surface, but also in the deeper layers of the epidermis. It is this combination – ease of penetration and transformation into a nourishing vitamin – that is behind the effectiveness of this ingredient in care.
Panthenol and D-panthenol – is there a difference?
In the descriptions of cosmetic ingredients, we can come across the names panthenol and D-panthenol (or dexpanthenol). Is it the same thing? Yes - it is basically the same substance, with the difference that it occurs in two mirror forms (so-called enantiomers): D and L. D-panthenol is an active biological form, the one that the skin can use and transform into vitamin B5.
L-panthenol does not show such activity, although it also has some moisturizing properties. In cosmetics , D-panthenol (or a DL mixture containing both forms) is most often used - this guarantees that the product will actually bring the expected effects. In other words, D-panthenol is a "working" form of panthenol.
Some manufacturers emphasize this name on the packaging to indicate the use of the most effective form. However, if you simply see Panthenol in the composition, you can assume that it is D-panthenol (because it is responsible for the beneficial effects of provitamin B5 on the skin).
The most important properties for the skin
Panthenol has gained recognition for its wide range of positive effects on the skin. Below are its key properties:
Strong hydration and moisture retention
The discussed ingredient is a humectant – a substance that attracts and binds water molecules in the skin like a magnet. Thanks to this, it prevents drying and helps maintain an optimal level of moisture in the epidermis. Importantly, it strengthens the skin's hydrolipid barrier , which limits the escape of water from its surface.
Studies have shown that just 1% panthenol added to a cosmetic can significantly reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is the evaporation of moisture through the epidermis. The result? The skin remains soft, smooth and elastic. Well-hydrated skin also looks healthier and more radiant – it is firmer and less prone to irritation.
This ingredient also has a slight film-forming effect – it can help “seal” micro-cracks in the stratum corneum, which additionally protects against dehydration. Unlike heavier emollients, moisturizing with it does not create a greasy film and does not clog pores, which we will discuss in more detail in a moment.
Skin regeneration and healing of micro-damages
One of its most valued features is its ability to accelerate skin renewal and healing . As provitamin B5, it stimulates cell proliferation (division), including fibroblasts , which accelerates the regeneration of the epidermis and dermis. In practice, it helps the skin repair itself faster after various micro-damages - minor wounds, abrasions, cracks or burns.
It works like a dressing: it supports re-epithelialization , or the reconstruction of the outer layer of the skin. No wonder it is an ingredient in many ointments for burns and minor wounds (e.g. popular soothing creams after tattoos or preparations for diaper rashes in infants). Panthenol increases the rate of cell renewal and supports the synthesis of new skin cells, thanks to which minor damage heals more efficiently. What's more, by stimulating fibroblasts, it indirectly promotes the production of collagen - a protein responsible for the structure and strength of the skin.
Regular use of panthenol strengthens the skin's structure and can improve its overall condition. If you struggle with rough, cracked skin (e.g. on your heels or hands), a cosmetic with this ingredient will help regenerate damaged epidermis faster.
Relieves irritation and inflammation
This ingredient acts as a soothing compress for the skin. It has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, thanks to which it quickly reduces redness, burning or itching of the skin. A dry, damaged hydrolipid barrier often results in hypersensitivity and irritation - panthenol, intensively moisturizing and regenerating the protective layer of the skin, indirectly prevents the formation of inflammation.
It can directly inhibit the release of inflammatory mediators , which translates into attenuation of the inflammatory response. That is why after its use we feel relief from various irritations: whether it is after sunburn, insect bites or irritation after shaving.
Panthenol is an ingredient in soothing creams for sunburn, insect bites, depilation , and even diaper rash preparations - in all these cases it helps reduce discomfort, redness, and accelerates the healing of irritated skin.
People with sensitive skin especially appreciate it for its ability to quickly calm "capricious" skin. Even with such demanding problems as atopic dermatitis (AD) or soothing the skin after dermatological procedures, it proves to be very helpful.
Anti-aging effect and improvement of skin elasticity
Although panthenol is not classified as a typical anti-wrinkle ingredient, its indirect anti-aging effects are significant. Well-hydrated skin is more elastic and less prone to wrinkle formation – and panthenol, as we already know, is great at maintaining moisture levels. This helps smooth the skin and fine lines , giving the effect of a fuller, firmer complexion.
Improving hydration and rebuilding the barrier means that the skin maintains its elasticity (flexibility) and resistance to external factors better. It works like a personal trainer for our skin - it strengthens it and makes it more durable , so that the signs of aging appear slower.
Additionally, by stimulating cell regeneration, it helps renew the skin's texture - when used regularly, it can gently improve its smoothness and color (e.g. by facilitating the disappearance of small spots or marks from imperfections). Of course, panthenol will not replace retinol or vitamin C in their strong anti-wrinkle effect, but it is an excellent complement to anti-aging care .
It soothes potential irritations from stronger ingredients, while providing the skin with moisture and an environment conducive to regeneration - and this is the foundation of a youthful appearance. As a result, the complexion becomes more elastic, soft and radiant with regular use, which translates into a younger appearance.
Examples of applications in cosmetics
Thanks to the above properties, panthenol is a truly universal ingredient. It can be found in various types of cosmetics, from facial products, through body and hair care, to specialist dermocosmetics.
Face and body cosmetics
Moisturizers, serums, body lotions, and even face washes – our ingredient is often found in all of them. It is added to increase the moisturizing and soothing properties of the product. For example, many face creams with panthenol are recommended for people with dry and sensitive skin, because it brings relief to rough, irritated skin.
Balms and body butters enriched with it help to regenerate dry skin, e.g. on the elbows or knees. Importantly, it can also be found in skin cleansing cosmetics - delicate gels and cleansing foams with its addition remove impurities without damaging the protective barrier . Thanks to this ingredient, washing the face or body does not leave a feeling of tightness - the skin after cleansing is soft and soothed. Make-up cosmetics also sometimes contain panthenol (e.g. lipsticks, glosses or mascaras) to care during beautification - prevent dry lips or brittle eyelashes. In short, in the daily care routine from morning to night, we can come across it in many preparations, drawing on its benefits.
Hair and nail care
It is also a star of hair cosmetics. Shampoos, conditioners, masks or styling sprays - in all these formulas it acts as a conditioning substance . It works as a conditioner: it moisturizes and smoothes the hair , adding softness and shine. At the same time, it strengthens the hair sheath (creating a thin film on it), which reduces brittleness and split ends . It can give thin, delicate strands more volume - it optically thickens the hair, thanks to which the hairstyle gains fluffiness. Interestingly, in terms of chemical, it is similar to keratin (a protein that builds hair), thanks to which it helps to fill micro-damages in the hair structure and thus regenerate it. Hair becomes more elastic, less susceptible to mechanical damage (e.g. during combing or hot styling). If you dye or often blow-dry and straighten your hair, it will help minimize the damage - no wonder it is an ingredient of many protective cosmetics against high temperatures and anti-dandruff (it soothes scalp irritations). It also has a mild antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, which is useful for scalp problems (itching, dandruff). It also takes care of the nails - we can find it in nail conditioners and hand creams. Thanks to its ability to penetrate the nail plate , it improves its hydration and elasticity , which prevents brittleness and splitting. Weakened, brittle nails become stronger and more resistant to damage with regular use of preparations with provitamin B5.
Specialized products for after-sun, depilation, acne and atopic dermatitis
Panthenol is a mandatory ingredient in many soothing after-sun cosmetics . Sunburn manifests itself through redness, pain and flaking – panthenol works in many ways: it cools and soothes the skin, reduces inflammation and supports the reconstruction of damaged epidermis. After-sun foams and emulsions with a high content of it can significantly accelerate skin regeneration after excessive sun exposure and bring relief to overheated skin. The skin can also be irritated (red, burning) after depilation or shaving – that is why after-shave creams and balms often contain it to immediately relieve these symptoms. Panthenol reduces redness and burning and prevents minor inflammation of hair follicles oily.pl . People struggling with acne can also benefit from the properties of this ingredient. Although it does not have a direct antibacterial effect on P. acnes like typical anti-acne ingredients, its soothing of inflammation and support in healing pimples is very valuable. Acne skin creams are often enriched with it to reduce irritation and redness around the lesions and to speed up skin regeneration after resolving pimples. Additionally, it does not clog pores (as discussed below), so it is safe for skin prone to imperfections. Finally, in dermocosmetics for atopic skin ( AD ), it is almost a standard - due to its soothing and skin barrier rebuilding properties. In atopic dermatitis, this barrier is impaired, and the skin is very dry and prone to irritation; it helps to moisturize and seal the epidermis and relieve itching and redness. It is often used in combination with other soothing substances (such as aloe or allantoin) in creams and emulsions for people with AD, psoriasis or eczema.
Panthenol in Orientana brand products
The natural cosmetics brand Orientana also uses this ingredient, appreciating its beneficial effects. In many Orientana formulas, it plays the role of a key ingredient responsible for moisturizing and soothing the skin.
For example, Orientana Moisturizing Face Wash Foam (e.g. from the Kantola series) contains this ingredient, thanks to which the complexion is protected from drying out already at the cleansing stage. The foam gently but effectively washes the skin, and the panthenol in its composition soothes irritations and provides a feeling of comfort - after washing, the face remains soft, without unpleasant tightness. This is an ideal solution for people who are afraid that cleansing will violate the skin's protective barrier - this ingredient prevents violation, soothing potential irritation from detergents.
Orientana also offers this ingredient in facial care cosmetics, such as creams and masks from the Hello Daktyl line . This line is based on natural extracts (including date and lotus), and this ingredient fits in perfectly as an additional "vitamin" injection for the skin.
Hello Daktyl Vitamin Night Cream-Mask is an example of a product where this ingredient supports intensive night-time skin regeneration – during sleep, the skin receives a dose of provitamin B5, which helps renew the epidermis, soothe minor irritations that have occurred during the day and deeply moisturize it. In the morning, the complexion is rested, soothed and well moisturized. In turn, Hello Daktyl unique moisturizing cream (for face and under eyes) uses it to provide the skin with all-day moisture and protection against external factors.
Panthenol in this cream works in synergy with other active ingredients (such as squalane, hyaluronic acid, plant extracts) - together they nourish, regenerate and improve skin elasticity , and at the same time soothe any symptoms of discomfort or redness. Thanks to this, Hello Daktyl cream works well even for sensitive skin: panthenol protects it from moisture loss and irritation during the day.
Panthenol also appears in the INCI composition of Trycho Lychee moisturizing shampoo. It is listed after Hydrolyzed Rice Protein , before Centella Asiatica Extract . It works together with hydrolyzed rice and wheat proteins to deepen the moisturizing and smoothing effects of the formula. Together with prebiotics in the composition, it creates an environment friendly to a healthy scalp. Its presence in the composition of the shampoo facilitates the healing of micro-wounds and counteracts irritation.
Orientana adds this ingredient to its products where strong hydration, regeneration and relief are needed. The brand's philosophy is to combine plant extracts with effective, safe active ingredients - and panthenol fits perfectly into this scheme as a vitamin-derived ingredient with proven effects. It is therefore safe to say that Orientana uses panthenol to increase the effectiveness and gentleness of its cosmetics . For the user, this simply means more hydrated, calmed and healthier-looking skin when using the brand's products on a daily basis.
The effectiveness of panthenol in combating skin irritations
Panthenol is often recommended as a panacea for various types of skin irritations – from redness to minor wounds. What exactly is its soothing power and who can it particularly help? As already mentioned, panthenol has anti-inflammatory effects – it inhibits inflammatory reactions in the skin, which reduces redness, swelling and the unpleasant sensation of burning or itching.
At the same time, panthenol accelerates the regeneration of the epidermis , which means that the damaged or irritated skin area returns to normal more quickly. The uniqueness of panthenol is that it alleviates symptoms (calms the skin here and now), but also removes the cause of irritation - strengthening the skin barrier and stimulating its renewal, preventing further irritation of the given area.
Who is this ingredient particularly recommended for? Practically anyone struggling with sensitive or periodically irritated skin. People with sensitive skin, prone to redness or contact allergies, will appreciate panthenol for its delicacy and effectiveness in soothing the skin's reaction to irritants (new cosmetics, changeable weather, pollution, etc.).
If you have local irritations – e.g. redness around the wings of the nose from a runny nose, skin irritated by cosmetic acids or retinol, or itchy areas after mosquito bites – a product with panthenol will bring you relief. Atopic skin (AD) , which is constantly red, dry and itchy, also tolerates panthenol very well and benefits from its use.
Dermatologists often recommend emulsions and balms with panthenol as a complement to the treatment of atopic dermatitis or contact dermatitis, precisely to alleviate inflammation and support the reconstruction of the epidermal barrier.
Also after cosmetic or dermatological treatments – such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, laser therapy – cosmetologists recommend panthenol care. The skin after such treatments can be red and sensitive, and panthenol helps it regenerate faster and reduce the risk of post-treatment irritation. Its high tolerance by the skin (even damaged) makes it safe to use almost immediately after the procedure.
The effectiveness of panthenol in soothing irritations results from two complementary mechanisms : on the one hand, it immediately soothes inflammation (acting anti-irritantly), on the other – it strengthens the skin so that it recovers faster and is less susceptible to irritation in the future. That is why it is so universally recommended: from infants with diaper rashes, through teenagers with acne, to adults with sensitive skin or seniors with thin and irritation-prone skin – everyone can benefit from the calming effect of provitamin B5.
Is panthenol good for oily skin?
People with oily and acne-prone skin are often afraid of moisturizing cosmetics for fear of clogging pores and increasing sebum secretion. Panthenol breaks this stereotype - it is also an ally of oily skin . First of all, it is a non-comedogenic ingredient, which means it does not clog pores and does not cause blackheads.
It penetrates the skin almost completely and does not leave a heavy, greasy layer. On the contrary, panthenol has a light, non-greasy consistency (often found in gel cosmetics, light emulsions), so it does not burden the skin. Thanks to this, it can be safely used by people with oily, combination or acne skin - it provides moisture without increasing greasiness .
What's more, well-moisturized oily skin often regulates sebum production better . When the skin is dried out by aggressive anti-acne products, the sebaceous glands receive a signal to "produce more oil" and the skin shines even more. Panthenol, by moisturizing and soothing, helps restore balance - the skin is moisturized, so it does not have to defend itself with overproduction of sebum. As a result, the skin can become more balanced and less oily during the day.
Additionally, panthenol works great as an ingredient accompanying acne therapy. Many acne preparations (with benzoyl peroxide, retinoids or acids) cause irritation and flaking of the skin. Incorporating panthenol into your skincare routine alleviates these side effects – it reduces redness, burning, speeds up the healing of pimples and generally improves the comfort of the treatment. And all this without the risk of “clogging” the skin.
What's more, the anti-inflammatory effect of provitamin B5 is also beneficial in active inflammations in acne - it can reduce swelling and redness of lesions. Of course, it will not replace anti-acne drugs, but it supports the skin in the fight against imperfections, while protecting it from excessive drying.
It is worth emphasizing that panthenol will not make oily skin dry – it does not directly reduce sebum secretion, but provides hydration in a way that is friendly to oily skin . That is why creams and serums dedicated to oily skin increasingly often contain humectants such as panthenol or hyaluronic acid, which hydrate the skin without making it sticky.
This ingredient works best for oily skin – it moisturizes without weighing it down , helps soothe inflammation and supports acne treatment, and at the same time does not cause new “surprises”. For people struggling with oily skin, it is an ideal moisturizing ingredient.
General benefits of using panthenol
When viewed holistically, panthenol offers a number of benefits that make it a unique ingredient in daily care:
Multi-faceted action: One substance provides hydration, regeneration and relief - it's like having several products in one. Thanks to panthenol, the skin is hydrated, smooth and less irritated, and the hair is softer and shiny. Few ingredients work as comprehensively as provitamin B5.
Versatility: Panthenol is suitable for all skin types – dry, sensitive, mature, oily, acne-prone, and even atopic. Everyone can benefit from it, just by adapting the form of the cosmetic to their needs (a different product will be chosen by someone with dry skin, and another by someone with oily skin, but panthenol will work positively in both cases). It is also suitable for the care of the entire body, face, hair, and nails, which makes it a truly versatile ingredient. We can use it from head to toe – literally.
Synergy with other ingredients: Panthenol “likes” other cosmetic components. It works great with lipids (e.g. ceramides or natural oils) – moisturizing the skin deeper and preparing it so that lipids can protect it. It also combines well with active substances : with retinol (soothes irritations without weakening the anti-wrinkle effect), with vitamin C (provides hydration, while vitamin C brightens), with niacinamide or acids. Its presence in the formulation often improves the comfort of using stronger products and increases the overall effectiveness of care.
In short, panthenol is a “safety primer” for skin care . It provides the basics our skin needs – hydration, protection and repair – regardless of its type or age. Its use translates into healthier looking skin and hair, and thanks to its easy availability, everyone can benefit from its benefits.
Panthenol Safety and Tolerance
In the world of cosmetics, panthenol is considered an ingredient with an exemplary safety profile . It has been well-researched and has been used for years in both cosmetic and medicinal products. Both European and American institutions assess it as safe for use on the skin - panthenol is on the GRAS (generally recognized as safe) list of ingredients of the American FDA and the European Commission has also admitted it to cosmetics without reservations.
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (an independent panel of experts evaluating cosmetic ingredients) confirmed in 2017 that panthenol does not irritate or harm the skin. It can be used in high concentrations (typically 1 to 5% in cosmetics) without fear of toxicity.
Importantly, panthenol is a non-toxic ingredient, it does not cause allergies or irritations under typical conditions of use. Due to its close relationship with natural vitamin B5, our body treats it in a friendly way. Allergic reactions to panthenol are extremely rare.
Of course, there is always the possibility of individual hypersensitivity - if someone is extremely allergic to vitamin B5, panthenol can cause contact dermatitis. However, such cases are described in the literature sporadically (dermatologists consider panthenol to be a contact allergen from the "rare" category). That is why panthenol often appears in hypoallergenic lines and those intended for atopic or allergic skin, as well as in cosmetics for infants and small children.
Since we use it safely even on a baby's skin from the first days of life (e.g. diaper rash creams with panthenol), this is the best recommendation for its gentleness.
It is also worth noting that panthenol is safe for acne-prone skin - as explained above, it does not exacerbate the lesions, and in fact helps in their healing. It is not comedogenic , it does not cause a "breakout" of imperfections.
It can also be used for skin prone to redness or vascular problems – it does not intensify redness, and thanks to its anti-inflammatory effect, it can minimize it. Panthenol also does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun (it is not photosensitizing), so it can be used both day and night, all year round.
In chemical terms, panthenol is stable and does not "spoil" easily in cosmetics - it does not require special storage conditions, it does not oxidize like, for example, vitamin C. This also affects safety - preparations with panthenol retain their quality and effectiveness for a long time.
Are there any contraindications to using panthenol at all? In principle, no – apart from the extremely rare allergies mentioned above. Panthenol does not absorb into the bloodstream in amounts that could be harmful (it works locally in the skin). There have been no reports of overdose or poisoning with panthenol when applied externally. It can also be safely used for care during pregnancy and breastfeeding (which is reflected in the presence of panthenol in many creams for mothers and ointments for nipple care in breastfeeding women).
In summary, panthenol is an ingredient that is very well tolerated by the skin . Its use carries a minimal risk of side effects, but maximum skincare benefits. To be on the safe side, people with extremely sensitive skin can perform an allergy test (e.g., apply a small area and check the reaction), but in the vast majority of cases, panthenol does not cause any problems. It has gained a reputation as an ingredient that is “safe as water” – it can be used daily, for a long time and on different parts of the body, enjoying the improvement of the skin condition without any worries.
Is it worth including panthenol in your daily care routine?
After reading the above information, the answer is obvious: definitely yes! Panthenol is one of those ingredients that combine scientifically proven effectiveness with gentleness to the skin. Its most important advantages – deep moisturization, accelerated regeneration and soothing irritation – make it an invaluable element of care for people with different skin needs. Regardless of whether you struggle with dry skin, minor imperfections, first wrinkles or simply want to keep your skin in great shape, panthenol will be a valuable ally .
Introducing panthenol cosmetics into your daily routine is easy – just look around for a cream, serum or toner that contains Panthenol . Fortunately, there is a wide range of choices, because as we mentioned, many brands (including natural ones, such as Orientana) are happy to use this provitamin in their formulas. You can start with one product, e.g. a mild moisturising cream with panthenol applied at night, and observe how your skin reacts. It is very possible that you will quickly notice the difference – more hydration, less irritation, generally more comfortable skin.
Panthenol is sometimes called the “beauty vitamin” for the skin – and rightly so, because healthy skin is beautiful skin. Thanks to it, we can take care of our natural protective barrier and provide our skin with a solid dose of nourishment every day. To sum up, panthenol is an ingredient that combines scientific knowledge with practical results in cosmetics. If it is not yet on your shelf, it is worth giving it a chance. Your skin will reward you with better hydration, smoothness and peace – and after all , this is what well-chosen care is all about. Add panthenol to your cosmetic bag and see how much this inconspicuous provitamin B5 can do!
Sources:
- medicalnewstoday.com medicalnewstoday.com Medical News Today – Panthenol: Uses, safety, and risks (2023) – definition of panthenol as provitamin B5 and its moisturizing and soothing properties.
- healthline.com healthline.com Healthline – Panthenol: Hair, Skin, Uses, Side Effects, Benefits (2018) – multifaceted effects of panthenol on the skin (moisturizing, improving elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects) and benefits for hair and nails.
- mdpi.com mdpi.com YS Cho et al., Use of Dexpanthenol for Atopic Dermatitis—Benefits and Recommendations (J. Clin. Med. 2022) – a review of studies confirming that panthenol significantly increases skin hydration, reduces TEWL, improves elasticity and accelerates healing (fibroblast proliferation, re-epithelialization).
- pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov FB Camargo Jr. et al., Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations (J. Cosmet. Sci. 2011) – a clinical study in which 1–5% panthenol in a cream reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration after 2–4 weeks of use.
- oily.pl oily.pl Oily.pl – Panthenol in cosmetics – an article (2021) describing the properties of panthenol: accelerating the healing of micro-damages, soothing irritations (after shaving, sunbathing), moisturizing and strengthening the skin barrier, improving firmness and lack of comedogenic effects and a high safety profile (rarely allergies, use in atopic dermatitis, in children's products).
