Vitamin C and its effects on the skin

Vitamin C is one of the most studied and most frequently used active ingredients in cosmetology. Valued for its versatile effects - from lightening discolorations, through stimulating collagen production, to antioxidant protection - it has become an indispensable element of skin care at any age. Its effectiveness is confirmed by numerous scientific studies, and cosmetics with this vitamin are extremely popular among dermatologists and cosmetologists around the world. In this article, we will explain exactly how vitamin C works on the skin, what problems it can help with, and how to properly introduce it into your daily care.

What is vitamin C in cosmetics?

Definition and properties

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble vitamin with a strong antioxidant effect. It is essential for the proper functioning of the body, including skin health. Humans do not synthesize vitamin C on their own, so it must be supplied from the outside - both in the diet and through external care.

In cosmetology, this vitamin is used primarily due to three key properties:

• neutralizes free radicals and has antioxidant properties,
• participates in collagen synthesis,
• lightens discolorations and evens out skin tone.

As shown in studies (Pullar et al., Nutrients , 2017), topical application of vitamin C can significantly improve the condition of the skin, reducing signs of aging and improving hydration.

Forms used in cosmetics

Pure ascorbic acid is characterized by high biological activity, but it also has certain limitations - it is unstable, easily oxidized by light, air and high temperature. Therefore, more stable derivatives of vitamin C are often used in cosmetics, which also show high care effectiveness and are more resistant to storage conditions.

The most common forms of vitamin C in cosmetics include:

• Ascorbyl Glucoside – a stable water-soluble form that, once absorbed into the skin, transforms into active ascorbic acid (Badal et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology , 2017).
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) – a more gentle form, especially recommended for sensitive and vascular skin.
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) – also has antibacterial properties and may support the treatment of acne-prone skin (Huh et al., Dermatologic Therapy , 2016).
• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate) – a highly stable, lipophilic form of vitamin C, perfectly penetrating the skin and effective even at lower concentrations (Huang et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology , 2007).

Natural sources of vitamins in care

Some cosmetics also use plant extracts rich in natural vitamin C, such as:

• Amla (Phyllanthus emblica, Emblica Officinalis)
• acerola (Malpighia emarginata),
• wild rose (Rosa canina),
• camu camu (Myrciaria dubia).

Although the amounts of active vitamin C in extracts may be less compared to pure synthetic forms, they often occur in synergy with other bioactive compounds, which further supports skin care (Telang, Indian Dermatology Online Journal , 2013).

Main benefits for skin

Antioxidant effect - neutralization of free radicals

It is one of the strongest natural antioxidants used in dermatology. Its main role is to neutralize free radicals — reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are created, among others, under the influence of UV radiation, air pollution, cigarette smoke and oxidative stress.

Laboratory studies have shown that topical application of vitamin C can reduce the level of free radical-induced DNA and cellular protein damage by as much as 40–60% (Humbert et al., Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology , 2003). This means slowing down the skin aging process, reducing micro-inflammatory changes and protecting the epidermal barrier.

It is worth emphasizing that the antioxidant protection of vitamin C is particularly important during periods of intense exposure to UV radiation – which is why it is so often combined with sunscreens (Lin et al., Journal of Investigative Dermatology , 2005).

Lightening discolorations and evening out skin tone

It inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin synthesis (Barbagallo et al., Dermatology Research and Practice , 2010). Thanks to this, it has a depigmenting effect:

• lightens post-inflammatory discolorations,
• reduces sun spots,
• evens out skin tone.

In clinical studies, the use of a serum with 10% vitamin C for 12 weeks reduced the visibility of discolorations by about 25-30% (Farris et al., Dermatologic Surgery , 2005). The effects are more pronounced with systematic use and in combination with other depigmenting ingredients, e.g. ferulic acid or niacinamide.

Stimulation of collagen synthesis and improvement of skin elasticity

It plays a key role in the hydroxylation of proline and lysine — amino acids necessary for the stabilization and proper formation of collagen fibers (Phillips et al., American Journal of Clinical Nutrition , 2017). This means that this vitamin:

• increases the production of new collagen (mainly type I and III),
• improves skin density,
• smoothes fine wrinkles.

Studies have shown that after 6 months of using a serum with 10% vitamin C, the thickness of the dermis increased by an average of 30% and the amount of new collagen increased by about 40% (Traikovich, Journal of Dermatologic Surgery and Oncology , 1999).

This is one of the reasons why the vitamin is so often recommended in the care of mature skin and anti-aging prevention.

Strengthening the skin barrier and moisturizing

It also participates in the synthesis of epidermal lipids, such as ceramides and fatty acids, which helps maintain the proper function of the skin's hydrolipid barrier (Pinnell et al., Archives of Dermatology , 2001). This results in:

• improving the skin's moisture level,
• reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL),
• reduced sensitivity to irritating factors.

Studies have shown that the skin of people who applied topical vitamin C showed an average of 15–20% better hydration than the control group after just a few weeks of use (Fuchs et al., Dermatology , 1998).

Anti-inflammatory and supportive effect in acne therapy

A growing body of research also points to the anti-inflammatory properties of vitamin C. It can reduce redness, soothe acne symptoms, and support skin healing processes (Huh et al., Dermatologic Therapy , 2016).

For problematic skin, stable forms of vitamin C are often recommended, such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), which have additional antibacterial effects on Propionibacterium acnes, the bacterium responsible for acne breakouts.

Orientana cosmetics with vitamin C

Serum-ampoule "Brightening" - ethylated vitamin C

Orientana offers an intensively concentrated Brightening Serum-ampoule with a formula based on fully stable ethylated vitamin C (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid). This is a combination of effectiveness and safety - the formula is gentle even for sensitive skin, and at the same time effective in reducing discoloration.

Key Features and Effects:

• Stability : resistant to light, oxygen and temperature changes – does not oxidize like ascorbic acid.
• Penetration : thanks to the ethyl group, it effectively penetrates the skin barrier.
• Anti-aging and depigmenting effects : inhibits tyrosinase, stimulates collagen and lightens discolorations.
• Gentle on the skin : does not irritate, can be used by people with sensitive skin and pigmentation problems.

Recommendations for use:

• Morning routine – matched to your day cream or serum.
• Evening: As an alternative to retinol, ethylated vitamin C works great with retinoids in a variety of routines.

Hello Papaya Series – comprehensive brightening care

The Hello Papaya series is a line of four products with ethylated vitamin C, papaya extract and additional active substances. It was created for skin that requires hydration, even tone and illumination.

Main active ingredients:

• 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid – a stable form of vitamin C.
• Papaya extract – contains the enzyme papain, which gently exfoliates the epidermis and improves skin structure.
• Tranexamic acid – a strong depigmenting ingredient against discoloration.

Hello Papaya series products:

1. Brightening serum-ampoule – gel consistency, absorbs quickly; reduces discoloration and evens out skin tone.
2. Energizing day cream – combines vitamin C with avocado oil; adds radiance and hydration to the skin.
3. Micro-exfoliating night cream with enzymes (papain + bromelain) – regenerates and smoothes the skin at night.
4. Brightening mask with vitamin C and squalane – intensively moisturizes, nourishes and brightens the complexion.

Summary and Tips

Product	Key Ingredients	Action
Serum-ampoule "Brightening"	Ethylated vitamin C	Intensive brightening and anti-aging
Hello Papaya Series	Ethyl C + papain + tranexamic acid	Comprehensive brightening, moisturizing, exfoliation

Both variants are based on a stable, effective form of vitamin C, supported by natural enzymes and depigmenting ingredients. They fit perfectly into both professional, expert and friendly cosmetic routines, guaranteeing the skin a healthy glow and even color.

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Who is vitamin C recommended for?

Mature skin

This vitamin is one of the key ingredients in anti-aging care. After the age of 30, the natural production of collagen in the skin begins to gradually decline, which leads to loss of firmness, the appearance of fine wrinkles and skin laxity. By stimulating the synthesis of collagen types I and III, it can significantly slow down these processes. Studies show that regular application of vitamin C increases skin density and improves its elasticity by up to 20-40% after several months of use (Traikovich, J Dermatol Surg Oncol , 1999). Therefore, serums or creams with vitamin C are especially recommended as an element of daily skin aging prevention.

Skin with discoloration

Sun discoloration, melasma, acne spots or uneven skin tone are problems that vitamin C can effectively deal with. It inhibits the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme, which is key in the synthesis of melanin, which translates into a reduction of existing pigmentation changes and prevents the formation of new ones (Barbagallo et al., Dermatol Res Pract , 2010). The effects of skin lightening can be seen after 8–12 weeks of daily use of preparations containing at least 10% stable vitamin C.

Capillary skin

People with vascular skin are often afraid of strong active ingredients, but a properly selected form of vitamin C can bring many benefits. Thanks to its antioxidant properties, the vitamin strengthens the walls of blood vessels, reduces redness and inflammation. Stable derivatives of vitamin C (e.g. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate or 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) are safer for this type of skin, reducing the risk of irritation while maintaining full care effectiveness.

Oily and acne skin

Vitamin C also has anti-inflammatory effects, making it valuable in the care of oily, acne-prone, and problematic skin. Studies have shown that forms such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) limit the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes ) bacteria responsible for the development of acne lesions (Huh et al., Dermatol Ther , 2016). Additionally, vitamin C helps reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), evens out skin tone, and regulates sebum secretion.

Sensitive Skin - What Forms of Vitamin C to Choose

Sensitive skin requires special care when choosing vitamin C. Classic ascorbic acid (L-Ascorbic Acid) in higher concentrations can cause redness, burning and irritation. Therefore, for sensitive skin it is recommended to use stable and better tolerated forms, such as:

• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) – a mild, water-based derivative of vitamin C, without irritating effects,
• 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid - an exceptionally stable and well-penetrating form, minimizing the risk of skin reactions,
• Ascorbyl Glucoside – gentle and gradually releases vitamin C into the skin.

Thanks to this, people with reactive skin can also safely enjoy the benefits of vitamin C.

How to use vitamin C in skin care?

What time of day is it best to take vitamin C?

Vitamin C can be applied both in the morning and in the evening, however, due to its antioxidant and protective effects, in practice it is most often recommended to apply it in the morning – under a cream with SPF filter. Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals created by UV and environmental pollution, thus strengthening sun protection. Studies (Lin et al., J Invest Dermatol , 2005) confirm that combining vitamin C with UV filters increases the overall protection of the skin against photoaging by up to 50–60%.

Applying vitamin C in the evening is also beneficial, especially in anti-wrinkle and depigmentation treatments, as it can help skin regenerate while you sleep.

In what order should I apply vitamin C?

• Skin cleansing – gentle gel, emulsion or foam.
• Toning – a tonic that restores the skin’s pH.
• Vitamin C Serum – preferably on slightly damp skin (greater penetration).
• Moisturizing cream – protects and strengthens the hydrolipid barrier.
• SPF cream (morning) – sun protection is key when using vitamin C.

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What concentration of vitamin C should I choose?

The concentration is selected according to the needs and tolerance of the skin:

Skin type	Recommended concentration	Recommended form
Sensitive skin	3-5%	Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside
Oily and combination skin	5-10%	Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Mature skin and discoloration	10-20%	L-Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Studies show that even a 10% concentration of L-Ascorbic Acid brings significant results in reducing wrinkles and discoloration after 12 weeks of use (Farris et al., Dermatol Surg , 2005).

What to combine vitamin C with to increase its effectiveness?

• Vitamin E (Tocopherol) – synergistic antioxidant action, protection of skin lipids.
• Tranexamic acid – supports vitamin C in reducing discoloration.
• Niacinamide – additional regulation of sebaceous glands, improvement of the skin barrier.
• Hyaluronic acid – intense hydration, improved skin elasticity.

When should you be cautious?

• For active inflammatory conditions of the skin.
• During intensive acid treatments (e.g. retinoids, AHA/BHA acids).
• In case of allergies to auxiliary ingredients of the serum (preservatives, stabilizers).

For people with very sensitive skin, it is best to start the treatment with low concentrations and stable forms of vitamin C, such as ethylated vitamin C (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid), used, among others, in the Orientana series.

The most common mistakes when using vitamin C

Use of unstable forms

One of the basic mistakes is choosing products containing an unstable form of ascorbic acid without appropriate stabilizers. Pure L-Ascorbic Acid oxidizes very quickly in contact with air and light, losing its properties and even irritating to the skin. Oxidized vitamin C can take on a yellow or brown color - such a product should no longer be used.

That is why it is so important to choose stable vitamin C derivatives (such as 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), which remain durable and effective throughout the entire use of the cosmetic.

No sun protection

Vitamin C has a protective effect, but it does not replace UV filters. Unfortunately, a common mistake is to not use a cream with a filter, which destroys some of the effects of the therapy. Under the influence of the sun, pigmentation and oxidation processes in the skin intensify.

Clinical studies clearly show that only the combination of vitamin C and photoprotection provides full antioxidant protection and prevents the formation of new discolorations (Lin et al., J Invest Dermatol , 2005).

Concentrations too high at the beginning of the treatment

Many people immediately reach for high concentrations of vitamin C (15-20%), which can lead to irritation, burning, redness and dry skin, especially in sensitive skin. The treatment should be started with lower concentrations (5-10%), and only after a few weeks the doses should be increased as the skin adapts.

Inappropriate combination with other active substances

Vitamin C in the form of pure ascorbic acid has a low pH, which is why it can react with some active ingredients. Particular caution should be exercised when used concurrently with:

• strong AHA/BHA acids,
• retinoids,
• copper peptides.

Such combinations can overload the skin barrier and increase the risk of irritation. In practice, it is recommended to apply vitamin C in the morning and retinoids in the evening, with a break of several hours between applications.

Storage in inappropriate conditions

Vitamin C is sensitive to light, air and high temperatures. Products should be stored in tightly closed, opaque bottles (amber glass, airless packaging), in a cool and dry place. Avoiding exposure to sunlight and high temperatures significantly prolongs the durability of the serum.

Irregular use

The effectiveness of vitamin C depends on regularity. Irregular use does not allow for full activation of collagenogenesis processes, lightening of discolorations or neutralization of free radicals. For noticeable effects, daily application is necessary for at least 8-12 weeks.

Vitamin C plays a unique role in skin care, combining a wide spectrum of action: from strong antioxidant protection, through supporting collagen production, to reducing discoloration and brightening the complexion. Its regular use allows not only to slow down the aging process, but also to significantly improve the condition of the skin after just a few weeks of treatment.

Thanks to advances in formulation technology, stable and well-tolerated forms of vitamin C are now available (such as 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate), which can be used even on sensitive and problematic skin. The effectiveness of vitamin C has been confirmed by numerous clinical studies, and its versatility means that it is used in the care of mature, vascular, oily or acne-prone skin.

The key to success is the right choice of concentration, the right form of the ingredient and the systematic application in combination with sun protection. Vitamin C cosmetics - such as serum-ampoules and the Hello Papaja line from Orientana - are a great way for daily, effective and safe skin care with visible results.