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STINKY FRUIT - DURIAN

While riding a taxi in Kuala Lumpur, I saw a sign of a crossed-out fruit. No driving with fruit? Hmm, interesting… The fruit was a durian. Many places in the city had a “No durian” sign. I saw it in a hotel, restaurants, shopping malls. Why? Because of the disgusting smell, which is hard to get rid of.

Mass-grown and eaten in Malaysia, the fruit resembles a thorny melon. It is sold at street stalls, and there are really a lot of them. The fruit is very popular, tasty and supposedly healthy. As for the smell, opinions vary - some say it smells like moldy material, others like stale offal... To me, it smelled like ammonia. The smell was really off-putting!

As for the taste – can I just say that I prefer mango?

Durian is not only eaten raw in Asia. Asians serve it as desserts, fill cakes with it, make cocktails, puddings and ice cream from it, as well as soups and sauces for meat. The seeds are also edible. Durian in cake was already edible for me?

You probably won't find durian in Europe due to its persistent smell and transportation bans, so if you're in Asia, I recommend trying it. Such a small Asian culinary curiosity!

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JAK DBAĆ O SIWE WŁOSY - Orientana

HOW TO CARE FOR GREY HAIR

Hair graying is a physiological process that occurs with age and is associated with the progressive loss of melanocytes in the hair follicle. These cells are responsible for the production of melanin - a pigment that gives hair its natural color. Reduced melanocyte activity and finally their complete degeneration causes gray hair to appear - devoid of pigment. This process can begin after the age of 30 and is determined both genetically and environmentally. Studies indicate that gray hair differs not only in color, but also in structure and physicochemical properties. Hair without melanin has higher porosity, is rougher to the touch, is more brittle and tends to dry out. In addition, melanin also has a protective function against UV radiation - its lack increases the sensitivity of hair to external factors, including solar radiation, air pollution and aggressive chemical ingredients contained in care products and hair dyes. From a scientific point of view, gray hair care should be subject to care that limits lipid oxidation, protects against oxidative stress and is intensively moisturized. Studies published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020) have shown that the use of antioxidants such as vitamin E (tocopherol), green tea extract (Camellia sinensis) or coenzyme Q10 can improve the structural integrity of gray hair and reduce its brittleness. It is also worth paying attention to film-forming ingredients, such as plant proteins, which create a protective layer on the hair surface, preventing moisture loss. Another important aspect of grey hair care is eliminating unwanted yellow reflections, which often appear as a result of keratin oxidation or the deposition of metal impurities from water. Products containing purple or blue correcting pigments (e.g. dark purple CI 60730 or blue CI 42090) can effectively neutralize yellowish tones and restore a cool, silver tone to grey hair. Thermal protection also plays a key role – grey hair is more susceptible to damage caused by heat styling. Ingredients such as hydrolysed keratin, panthenol or oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids (e.g. grape seed oil, tsubaki oil) have a protective effect against high temperatures and support the reconstruction of weakened hair structure. In light of available scientific data, gray hair should be cared for in a multi-stage and holistic manner – care should include cleansing, color protection, moisturizing, and rebuilding the keratin structure. Regular use of cosmetics containing active substances with proven effects can significantly improve the appearance, elasticity, and resistance of gray hair to external factors. gray hair - Moisturizing and nourishing Gray hair, due to the lack of melanin, has different physical and chemical properties than pigmented hair. Melanin not only gives hair color, but also affects its structure and moisture level. With its loss, the hair's hydrolipid balance is disturbed, which results in increased dryness, brittleness and loss of elasticity. The structure of the gray hair cortex becomes more porous, which facilitates water loss and makes it more difficult for the hair to retain moisture within its structure. According to research published in the International Journal of Trichology (2018), gray hair is characterized by a lower content of internal lipids and a higher degree of keratin oxidation. These changes translate into reduced hair elasticity and greater susceptibility to mechanical and thermal damage. Therefore, a key element of gray hair care is to provide it with moisturizing and nourishing substances that will compensate for the loss of the natural protective barrier. In daily care, it is worth reaching for conditioners and masks containing humectants - water-binding substances such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, betaine or aloe (Aloe barbadensis). They work by attracting moisture from the environment and retaining it inside the hair. Humectants should be used in combination with emollients – occlusive ingredients that create a layer on the hair surface that prevents water from evaporating. Effective emollients include vegetable oils (e.g. avocado oil, olive oil, jojoba oil), shea butter, fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol). Hydrolyzed proteins – such as oats or wheat – also play an important role in hair nutrition. They have a regenerative effect on damaged parts of the hair shaft, strengthen its structure and improve its elasticity. A study conducted by a group of researchers from the University of São Paulo (2021) showed that regular use of protein masks increases hair resistance to breakage by up to 40%, which is particularly important in the case of weakened and gray hair. It is also worth paying attention to the pH of the products you use. Gray hair, like the scalp, responds best to products with a slightly acidic pH (pH 4.5–5.5), which closes the hair cuticles, smoothes its surface and prevents further moisture loss. Products with an alkaline pH can lead to increased porosity and aggravate the problem of dryness. Gray hair that is systematically cared for with appropriately selected cosmetic formulas and protected from the effects of external factors is the key to maintaining the healthy appearance, softness and elasticity of hair without pigment. UV protection Gray hair, due to the loss of melanin, loses its natural protective barrier against the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Melanin plays an important photoprotective role, absorbing and scattering solar radiation, thus protecting both the hair shaft and hair follicle cells from oxidative damage. In the case of hair without pigment, this protection is significantly weakened, which leads to accelerated aging of the hair fiber. UV radiation – particularly UVA and UVB radiation – causes photodegradation of keratin proteins, lipid oxidation, and damage to the cortical structure of the hair. Studies by Robbins and Kelly ( Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists , 1991) have shown that exposure of hair to UV radiation leads to a significant loss of its mechanical integrity, and gray hair loses elasticity and becomes more brittle than naturally dark hair. Moreover, prolonged sun exposure results in a change in hair color to a yellowish or yellow-brown shade, which deteriorates its aesthetic appearance. Gray hair can be protected from UV radiation with cosmetics enriched with antioxidants, which neutralize free radicals generated by solar radiation. Effective antioxidants include tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), green tea polyphenols and extracts from adaptogenic plants such as Rhodiola rosea or Withania somnifera. Their presence enhances the photoprotective effect and supports the regeneration of damaged hair structure. In conditions of intense sunlight – especially in summer and during exposure to the sun in high mountains or by the sea – it is recommended that gray hair be physically protected, in the form of headgear. Wearing hats, caps or scarves protects not only the hair shaft itself, but also the scalp, which in the case of people with thinning hair is also exposed to photodamage. Avoiding high temperatures Gray hair, devoid of melanin, is particularly susceptible to damage caused by high temperatures. Melanin not only gives hair its color, but also affects its physicochemical properties, including resistance to thermal stress. Grey hair, due to its structure, has a thinner lipid layer, is more porous and less elastic, which makes it more susceptible to drying, breaking and split ends. Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004) showed that exposure of hair to temperatures exceeding 150°C leads to degradation of keratin proteins, particularly in the cortex, as well as to irreversible changes in the structure of intercellular lipids. Gray hair, being more brittle and dry, undergoes these processes more quickly and intensively. Frequent use of straighteners, curling irons or hot air from a hair dryer can lead to a significant deterioration of the hair's condition - a decrease in its mechanical strength, dullness and loss of natural smoothness. To minimize the effects of heat, it is recommended to limit the use of styling tools based on high temperatures. Whenever possible, it is worth choosing cold styling methods or using devices with temperature control, setting them at a level not exceeding 130-150 ° C. Laboratory studies show that temperatures above 180 ° C cause keratin denaturation and damage to the hair surface after just one use of a straightener. Gray hair should be protected from heat by using heat protectants. They contain ingredients that create a thin, protective coating on the hair surface that limits heat conduction and reduces water evaporation from the hair. The most commonly used thermoprotective substances include silicones (e.g. dimethicone, amodimethicone), polymers (e.g. polyquaternium-55, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein). We recommend natural ingredients such as natural oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids, such as rice oil, coconut oil or grape seed oil. In a study by Jung et al. (2011), it was shown that using a product containing dimethicone before using a straightener significantly reduced moisture loss and limited damage to the cuticular layer. The protection was even more effective when the product also contained plant proteins, which penetrate the hair and support its reconstruction. It is also worth remembering that hair is most susceptible to overheating when it is still damp. Wet styling – especially straightening or curling – leads to rapid evaporation of water, which can cause the so-called "bubble hair" effect, i.e. the formation of microscopic air bubbles in the hair structure, leading to its breakage. For this reason, you should always dry your hair thoroughly before using heating devices, using a cooler airflow and thermal protection. gray hair - Diet and supplementation The condition of hair, including its pigmentation, elasticity and resistance to damage, is closely linked to general health and diet. Graying of hair, although primarily genetically determined and related to the aging process, can be accelerated by deficiencies of certain vitamins and microelements. The scientific literature increasingly emphasizes the role of nutrients in maintaining the health of hair follicles and potentially delaying depigmentation processes. B vitamins, especially vitamin B12 (cobalamin), play a key role in the metabolism of hair follicle cells. B12 deficiency can lead to megaloblastic anemia, a symptom of which is premature graying. A study published in the International Journal of Trichology (2013) found significantly lower levels of vitamin B12 and folate (B9) in young people with premature graying compared to the control group. Other B vitamins, such as B6 (pyridoxine) and B7 (biotin), support keratin synthesis and scalp health. Minerals also play an important role in maintaining hair pigmentation. Copper is an essential cofactor for tyrosinase, an enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis. Its deficiency can disrupt this process and lead to hair loss. Zinc, on the other hand, is involved in cell division and supports hair growth. A review of the literature published in Dermatology and Therapy (2020) indicated that both zinc and copper deficiency can affect hair quality and pigmentation, although further clinical studies are needed to determine the exact mechanisms behind these relationships. In addition to vitamins and minerals, bioactive compounds with antioxidant effects, such as polyphenols, flavonoids and plant adaptogens, are gaining increasing interest. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals that can contribute to oxidative stress in the hair follicle – considered one of the factors leading to graying. Extracts from green tea, ginseng (Panax ginseng), turmeric (Curcuma longa) and ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) have been shown to have a beneficial effect on scalp health and the hair growth cycle, and some of them can also support pigment retention. It is worth remembering that supplementation should always be tailored individually, preferably after consulting a doctor or dietitian and after performing laboratory tests. An excess of some ingredients (e.g. zinc or selenium) can be harmful, so supplements should not be used without control. The most effective and safest is to include natural sources of nutrients in the diet: fish, eggs, nuts, seeds, leafy vegetables, whole grains and legumes. gray hair and stress Stress, especially chronic stress, plays a significant role in accelerating the aging process, including hair graying. One of the key biological mechanisms through which stress affects hair follicles is oxidative stress – a state of imbalance between the production of free radicals and the body's ability to neutralize them with antioxidants. Free radicals can damage melanocyte cells responsible for melanin production, which leads to premature hair depigmentation. Research conducted by scientists from Harvard University (Zhang et al., Nature , 2020) has shown a direct link between stress and melanocyte loss. In a mouse model, severe stress was shown to activate the sympathetic nervous system, which leads to the release of norepinephrine within the hair follicle. This substance induces excessive activity of melanocyte stem cells, which then become exhausted, resulting in permanent pigment loss. Although this mechanism has been thoroughly studied in animals, it suggests that stress in humans may also accelerate the graying process through similar biological pathways. Reducing psychological and physiological stress can therefore be an important element in the care of gray hair, not only from an aesthetic but also a biological perspective. Proven methods of reducing stress include breathing techniques, mindfulness meditation, yoga, and regular physical activity. A study published in JAMA Internal Medicine (2014) showed that daily practice of mindfulness meditation lowers cortisol levels – the stress hormone – and improves emotional balance and sleep quality, which can have a positive effect on the condition of the skin and hair. Physical activity also plays a significant role in neutralizing the effects of stress. Regular aerobic exercise, such as brisk walking, swimming, or cycling, increases endorphin production and supports the body's detoxification processes, reducing systemic inflammation and oxidative stress. Long-term benefits of physical activity include improved microcirculation in the scalp, which can support hair follicle nourishment and proper functioning. It is also worth emphasizing the role of adaptogens – plant substances that support the body's resistance to stress. Extracts from plants such as Rhodiola rosea, Withania somnifera (ashwagandha) or Eleutherococcus senticosus can affect the HPA axis (hypothalamus-pituitary-adrenal glands), regulating cortisol levels and strengthening resistance to mental stress. Some of these substances also have antioxidant effects, which makes them an interesting addition to graying prevention. How to protect your hair from premature graying To delay the process of premature graying of hair, it is worth implementing appropriate care. Ayurvedic Amla and Bhringraj hair oil will work great here. This is a product based on traditional recipes of Ayurvedic medicine. It contains extracts of amla fruit (Emblica officinalis) and bhringraj herbs (Eclipta alba), which are valued for their properties of strengthening hair, stimulating its growth and preventing premature graying. Regular use of this oil nourishes the scalp, strengthens hair follicles and can delay the process of pigmentation loss. Amla (Emblica officinalis) – also known as Indian gooseberry – protects hair from premature graying, as confirmed by both traditional Ayurvedic medicine and a growing body of scientific research. Some studies on animal and cell models have shown that compounds contained in amla can stimulate the activity of tyrosinase – an enzyme crucial for melanin synthesis. This suggests the potential of amla to slow down pigment loss. Amla is exceptionally rich in vitamin C and polyphenols (e.g. emblicanins A and B), which have strong antioxidant effects. They help neutralize free radicals that damage melanocytes – cells responsible for producing melanin (hair pigment). How to use Ayurvedic Amla Bhringraj Oil? Massage a small amount of the oil into the scalp and spread over the entire length of the hair. Leave it for a few hours or overnight, then wash your hair with a gentle shampoo. Regular use, e.g. 2-3 times a week, can bring the best results in the form of strengthened, healthy hair with preserved natural pigmentation. We now know that gray hair requires a holistic approach that considers both external care methods and internal health factors. Evidence-based strategies can help maintain the health and aesthetics of gray hair.

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Kokum – niezwykłe masło z Indii w naturalnych kosmetykach Orientana - Orientana

KOKUM BUTTER – THE MOST KNOWN SKIN CARE BUTTER IN INDIA

Of the butters found in cosmetics, you probably associate shea butter the most, which is commonly used in cosmetics. In Orientana natural cosmetics, we very often use kokum butter. It is obtained from the seeds of kokam - a Garcinia Indica plant growing in India. Most often in the mountainous areas of the Indian coast - around Bombay and the Indian state of Goa. These seeds are very similar to the closely related mangosteen and are often confused with it. Kokum butter is a very healthy, ecological raw material due to its cultivation without the use of chemicals, sprays and fertilizers. It is also one of the hardest vegetable fats, which is why it is often used to produce lipsticks and lip balms. It is also an excellent base for body creams and balms and other care cosmetics. And all this for a reason! It absorbs very quickly and does not clog pores! In this entry, we will describe how many valuable properties kokum butter has. USE OF GARCINIA INDICA FRUITS IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY The fruit is purple in color and is often used to color and flavor dishes. It is popular in India to extract juice from it, which has a beneficial, cooling effect on hot days and protects the body from dehydration. Another use of Garcinia Indica is as a weight loss aid. Kokum butter is also used as a substitute for cocoa butter in chocolate to raise the melting point of the chocolate and its melting at high temperatures. HOW IS BUTTER OBTAINED FROM GARCINIA INDICA? Garcinia Indica fruit contains 6 to 8 large seeds, which are 30-40% fat. The seeds are cold-pressed to produce oil, which is solid at room temperature and forms a hard butter. In order to soften it, it is recommended to combine it with other oils. In its pure form, it is quite dry and crumbles easily. It is white and beige in color. And what does it smell like? It smells subtly of nuts. WHAT VALUABLE INGREDIENTS DOES IT CONTAIN? It is a source of essential, unsaturated fatty acids, including omega acids, which support cell oxygenation and make nutrients easier to absorb through the skin. Additionally, kokum butter is a wealth of vitamin E! LET'S DISCOVER THE NUMEROUS PROPERTIES OF KOKUM BUTTER! This butter has strong moisturizing properties. It regenerates even the driest and roughest skin very quickly! It is an ideal choice for people struggling with dry, calloused parts of the body. Used regularly, it prevents skin from drying out, helps to heal cracks in the lips, hands or feet! It is often used in skin healing products. Kokum butter is a butter that immediately softens the epidermis and additionally leaves the skin more elastic and firm. Garcinia Indica fruit butter prevents skin from drying out and prevents water loss from the epidermis. It contains a whole range of antioxidants that delay the skin aging process. This natural butter is often used as a substitute for cocoa butter due to its uniform triglyceride composition. It works best in combination with other ingredients - then it becomes an ideal base and carrier of many valuable nutrients contained in Ayurvedic herbs! Products with kokum butter are a great choice for both summer and winter care. In summer, it will soothe sunburned skin and even out skin tone after an uneven tan, while in winter it will nourish dry, chapped skin. It will protect against frost and cold as well as dry air from radiators! In Orientana natural cosmetics, you will find kokum butter in Body Butters, Body Balms, Rich Creams from the Bio Ayurveda series or Lip Balms.

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Czy istnieje henna na siwe włosy? - Orientana

IS THERE A HENNA FOR GRAY HAIR?

Henna for gray hair is not a challenge at all! Read and try it yourself. Dyeing gray hair with henna is becoming an increasingly popular solution for people looking for natural, safe and permanent coloring methods. Henna, a powder obtained from the leaves of the defenseless Lawsonia inermis , not only gives hair a beautiful color, but also strengthens its structure. However, the process of applying henna to gray hair requires special attention and proper preparation to achieve optimal results. Below you will find a comprehensive step-by-step guide on how to apply henna to gray hair. Why is henna for GREY HAIR the perfect solution? Henna for gray hair is a wonderful natural cosmetic. It changes hair color, gives hair a beautiful shine, strengthens hair follicles, cares for the scalp and reduces scalp oiliness. A natural alternative to chemical paints Henna is a great option for those who want to avoid the chemicals found in traditional hair dyes. Gray hair, due to its specific structure, can be more sensitive to harsh chemicals, so henna is a gentle yet effective choice. Hair durability and care In addition to its coloring properties, henna strengthens hair, improves its texture and gives it a healthy shine. Its natural compounds act as a conditioner, reducing breakage and making hair soft. WILL HENNA DYE GRAY HAIR? WHEN DOES GREYING BEGIN AND WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE? Henna is not always able to completely cover grey hair, because grey hair has a different structure and properties compared to pigmented hair. In people of Caucasian descent, greying usually begins around the age of 35. People of Asian descent start greying from the age of 40, and in black people the first grey hair appears around the age of 45 . About 50% of the population has at least 50% grey hair by the age of 50, known as the "50-50-50 rule" On average, a person loses about 10-20% of melanocytes (cells responsible for hair pigmentation) every decade after the age of 30. The rate of graying varies. Faster in people with genetic predisposition (early graying). Slower in people who lead a healthy lifestyle and have low stress levels. There are no significant differences between men and women in the age at which gray hair first appears. Men tend to notice graying at the temples and beard earlier than in other areas. Women are more likely to experience graying evenly over the entire head. Factors that accelerate graying The strongest factor influencing age and the rate of graying is genetics. If people in our family gray quickly, we have a high percentage chance that we will also gray hair quite early. Scientific studies suggest that long-term stress can also damage melanocyte cells, leading to earlier graying. Oxidative stress, caused by free radicals, also contributes to pigment loss. Lifestyle is very important. Smoking doubles the risk of premature graying. An improper diet, poor in B vitamins (e.g. B12), iron or copper, can accelerate the graying process. Autoimmune diseases (e.g. vitiligo, alopecia areata) and vitamin deficiencies can lead to loss of hair pigment. For such people, henna for gray hair is a perfect natural solution. WHAT DOES GREY HAIR MEAN? Lack of natural pigment in gray hair Gray hair lacks melanin, the natural pigment responsible for hair color. Henna works by binding to the keratin in the hair and enhancing its color, but in the absence of melanin, this process is less effective. Gray hair is more "transparent" compared to pigmented hair, which can cause henna to not provide an intense color. Changed structure of gray hair Thicker hair cuticle: Gray hair often has a thicker, more compact cuticle, making it harder for the henna dye to penetrate. More porosity: Gray hair, on the other hand, can be more porous, which can cause the henna to not spread evenly, leading to uneven color. HOW HENNA WORKS ON GREY HAIR Henna reads Mahogany Red works as a translucent dye that adds color by layering over the natural hair tone. On very light gray hair, henna may give a more orange or copper tone instead of full coverage. Pigmented hair forms the base for the chosen henna color, while gray hair requires an additional step to achieve a deeper color. The inability of henna to turn a darker color is NOT A PROBLEM Natural henna does not contain chemicals or other dyes (apart from red) that could penetrate deeply into the hair and create a darker or more saturated color. In the case of gray hair, henna can only give a copper shade, which often seems too light or insufficiently covering. Mixtures of natural henna with the addition of indigo and Ayurvedic herbs such as Dark Brown Henna , Caramel Brown Henna or Walnut Henna . Henna coloring mixtures can leave a green sheen on gray hair. It is necessary to dye in two stages. First, pure henna Mahogany Red is dyed to give the hair an orange or copper shade. Then a mixture of henna and indigo is used to obtain a deeper color. hennA for gray hair - How to increase effectiveness ? It is necessary to dye in two stages . First red henna, then a mixture with indigo for better coverage. Longer holding time is required: henna on gray hair. Gray hair may require 4-6 hours for the dye to fully absorb. It is good to create an acidic environment for henna. Adding lemon juice or vinegar to the mixture improves the release of the dye. THE PROCESS OF HEATING GREY HAIR Henna for grey hair requires special attention. We need to buy two packages of henna - red and the color we want to achieve. Before applying henna, the hair should be properly prepared. Wash your hair with a shampoo without SLS and SLES to gently cleanse the hair. Do not use conditioner because the conditioner can create a barrier that will make it difficult for the henna to penetrate the hair. Comb your hair well. Make sure the hair is free of tangles. Preparation of the mixture Proportions and ingredients : Use the appropriate amount of henna depending on the length of your hair (e.g. 50-100 g for medium length hair). Mix red henna (pure) with warm water (approximately 50-60°C) until you obtain a smooth, thick paste. Add a little acidic ingredient (e.g. lemon juice, apple cider vinegar) to better release the dye. Henna application Skin and clothing protection : Apply Vaseline or oil along the hairline to avoid staining the skin. Wear gloves. You can protect your clothes, but henna stains will come out in a regular machine wash. Application : Divide your hair into sections and apply the paste from roots to ends, making sure all gray hairs are thoroughly covered. After application, wrap your hair in plastic wrap or wear a plastic cap to maintain moisture. Put a hat on your foil-protected hair - henna works better when warm. Holding time : Henna for gray hair stays on the head for 2-3 hours. Gray hair may require longer time to achieve intense color. Rinsing off henna Rinse your hair with lukewarm water without shampoo. If necessary, gently remove any remaining paste with your fingers. Avoid shampooing for the next 24-48 hours to allow the dye to set. HENNA FOR GREY HAIR - SECOND APPLICATION We already have hair dyed with pure red henna. It is probably not the color you want, so the next day you can immediately apply Henna coloring in the chosen shade. Proportions and ingredients : Use the appropriate amount of henna mixture depending on the length of your hair (e.g. 50-100 g for medium length hair). Mix henna of your chosen colour with warm water (approximately 50-60°C) until you obtain a smooth, thick paste. Apply to hair Rinse without shampoo. Additional tips for dyeing gray hair with henna include regularity of application - henna does not wash off the hair, but regrowth will be visible. Repeat dyeing every 4-6 weeks. Summary Henna for gray hair is a natural and safe alternative to chemical dyes. With proper preparation, selection of the mixture and following the right steps, you can achieve a lasting, beautiful color and healthy and strong hair. This process, although more time-consuming than chemical dyeing, brings benefits to both the aesthetics and condition of the hair.

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