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Pory na twarzy: przyczyny, pielęgnacja i realne efekty

Facial pores: causes, care and real effects

by Anna Wasilewska - founder of the Orientana brand

What are facial pores?

Facial pores are the natural outlets for hair follicles, sebaceous glands, and sweat glands. Each of us has a vast number of them, and their diameter and visibility depend on genetics , skin type , sebum production , and skin density and elasticity . Pores are essential – they enable proper skin function, thermoregulation, and lipid hydration of the surface.

Several myths have arisen around pores. The most popular one states that pores "open" and "close" with water temperature. This is false: pores do not have smooth muscles that could contract like a pupil. Cold water temporarily tightens the skin (vasoconstriction), but does not change the actual diameter of the pores . However, we can influence their visual appearance by regulating sebum production, exfoliating dead skin cells, and strengthening the skin matrix.

Why do pores become more visible?

Genetics and skin type

People with oily and combination skin tend to have larger, more active sebaceous glands. The T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) is the area with the highest sebum production, which is why pores on the nose and cheeks near the nose are usually larger.

Overproduction of sebum + hyperkeratinization

Excess sebum and accelerated keratinization (dead cell accumulation) lead to clogged pores and the formation of microcomedones. This causes enlargement of the pore opening and visible shadowing/texture.

Loss of collagen and elastin (age, UV)

Over time, the collagen/elastin content in the skin decreases. Furthermore, UV radiation accelerates the degradation of supporting fibers. Skin loses elasticity, so the pore "edges" are no longer held in check—and pores appear larger .

Skincare and makeup mistakes

Aggressive degreasing paradoxically increases sebum production (a compensatory mechanism). Overly heavy, occlusive formulas and incomplete makeup removal can increase comedogenicity. A lack of SPF accelerates photoaging and loss of skin elasticity, thus visually "enlarging" pores.

How to Reduce the Visibility of Pores – A Step-by-Step Routine

In the morning

Gentle cleansing – delicate gel, lukewarm water, no aggressive rubbing.

Toning/micro-exfoliation – a good ingredient is PHA (gluconolactone) 2–3 times a week instead of a classic tonic.

Antioxidant Serum – Niacinamide 2–5%

Serum for skin with enlarged pores - HydroTRemella

Moisturizing – light, non-comedogenic cream (humectants + light emollients).

SPF 50 protection - (sun = faster loss of skin elasticity).

In the evening

Makeup removal + cleansing – thorough but gentle (e.g. oil + foam).

Facial wash gel - gentle gel, lukewarm water, no aggressive rubbing.

Retinol Repair Serum - Retinol H10 version for daily use

Moisturizing and pore-reducing – cream-mask with humectants and light emollients; avoid heavy occlusion.

Ingredients that really work on pores

Niacinamide (vit. B3)

  • What it does: Regulates sebum production, strengthens the epidermal barrier, improves skin tone uniformity.
  • Concentration: 2–5% is most often the optimal range of effectiveness/tolerance.
  • For whom: All skin types; especially combination/oily and sensitive skin (good tolerance).
  • How to use: 1–2 times a day after cleansing; can be used under SPF and night cream.

Salicylic acid (BHA)

  • What it does: Lipophilic, penetrates sebum in pores, dissolves keratin-sebaceous plugs, has anti-inflammatory properties.
  • For whom: Oily/combination skin, prone to blackheads.
  • How to use: 2–3 times a week, preferably in the evening; apply to areas (nose, chin, cheeks near the nose).
  • Note: Do not combine with strong retinoids in the same application; remember about SPF.

PHA (e.g. gluconolactone)

  • What it does: Gentle exfoliation, strong humectant properties (attracts water), barrier support.
  • For whom: Sensitive, vascular skin, in the process of adapting to retinoids.
  • How to use: 3–5 times a week, may be in the morning (if well tolerated) or in the evening.

Retinoids (retinal/retinol)

  • What it does: Normalizes keratinization, supports skin reconstruction (collagen), thereby optically narrowing pores .
  • For whom: Skin with visible pores, signs of photoaging, discoloration.
  • How to use: Start 2–3 times a week, eventually 4–5 times a week; always use SPF during the day .
  • Tip: Retinal works faster than retinol and is better tolerated.

Azelaic acid / azeloglycine

  • What it does: Has anti-inflammatory properties, regulates keratinization, brightens post-inflammatory discolorations, improves texture .
  • For whom: Combination/oily skin, acne, with redness.
  • How to use: 1–2 times a day; combines well with niacinamide and PHA.

Zinc PCA

  • What it does: Reduces oiliness, has a soothing effect, and has antibacterial properties.
  • For whom: T-zone, skin with excess sebum.
  • How to use: In serum or toner; day or evening.

Clays (kaolin, bentonite) – temporarily

  • What they do: Adsorb excess sebum; provide an immediate mattifying effect.
  • How to use: 1× a week; do not overdo it to avoid drying out the skin.

Antioxidants and skin matrix support factors

  • Vitamins C, E, peptides: reduce oxidative stress, indirectly support skin firmness, which visually reduces the appearance of pores.
  • How to use: In the morning (antioxidants) and/or in the evening (peptides).

Office Treatments: When They Make Sense

  • Chemical peels (BHA, AHA, PHA) – regulate keratinization and brighten microcomedones. Best used in series, every 2–4 weeks.
  • Micro-needling (micro-needle mesotherapy) – stimulates skin remodeling; improved firmness = less visible pores.
  • Fractional laser / RF microneedling – collagen and elastin remodeling; option for visible pores + acne scars.
  • Microdermabrasion / oxydermabrasion – superficial resurfacing, smoothes texture.

For whom?

People with persistent, visible texture and blackheads who, despite proper care, do not achieve satisfactory results.

Contraindications

Active inflammation, pregnancy (for some procedures), photosensitizing drugs, healing disorders.

Expectations vs. reality

Treatments are supportive and do not replace a daily routine and SPF. They produce the best results when used in a series and with proper home care.

7-day treatment for enlarged and visible pores

Day 1 – Reset

Gentle washing in the morning and evening with a gel with PHA acid (gluconolactone), after 2 minutes a light sebum-regulating cream HydroTremella.

Day 2 – Adjustment

After washing - Serum-ampoule with 5% niacinamide in the morning; in the evening after cleansing - Serum ampoule Moisturizing + HydroTremella sebum-regulating cream.

Day 3 – Care:

In the evening, apply HydroTremella cream mask to the T-zone (nose/chin) or the entire face - without washing it off, and in the morning, HydroTremella sebum-regulating cream.

Day 4 – Barrier:

morning and evening: HydroTremella Serum + HydroTremella sebum regulating cream.

Day 5 – Texture:

in the morning Serum-ampoule with 5% niacinamide ; in the evening Serum with retinol (Reishi Retinol), HydroTremella sebum regulating cream.

Day 6 – Smoothing:

in the morning HydroTremella Serum ; in the evening Retinol Serum (Reishi Retinol), HydroTremella sebum regulating cream.

Day 7 – Consolidation:

In the morning Serum-ampoule with 5% niacinamide ; in the evening HydroTremella cream mask. Assess tolerance and effect – repeat the cycle 2-3 times.

Frequently asked questions

Is it possible to “close” pores on your face?
 No. Pores don't have muscles, so they don't close. Their appearance can only be reduced with exfoliation, niacinamide, and SPF.
Why are pores largest on the nose and T-zone?
The sebaceous glands in these areas are most active – they produce more sebum.
Does cold water close pores?
 No. It provides a temporary skin tightening effect but does not change pore diameter.
Which works faster: BHA or PHA?
 BHA (salicylic acid) works faster on blackheads, PHA (gluconolactone) is gentler and strengthens the barrier.
Niacinamide for pores – what % should I choose?
 Most often, 2–5% provides a good compromise between effectiveness and tolerability.
Do retinoids shrink pores?
Indirectly, yes – they normalize keratinization and support skin remodeling.
Do clays “pull out” impurities from pores?
 They temporarily adsorb sebum and smooth texture. Use once a week to avoid drying out your skin.
When to go to a dermatologist?
 When the visibility of pores is accompanied by inflammation, acne, scars, or when, despite proper care, there is no improvement.
Does diet affect pores?
 Indirectly, a high-glycemic diet may exacerbate seborrhea in some people. Focus on a balanced diet, hydration, and sleep.
Is mineral makeup better for pores?
Often yes – it provides lighter coverage and is less likely to be comedogenic, as long as it is washed off thoroughly.

The most common mistakes for skin with enlarged and visible pores

One of the most common mistakes in caring for skin with visible pores is aggressive degreasing, scrubbing, and using hot water . These actions disrupt the hydrolipid barrier and lead to even more sebum production. A better solution is to gently cleanse with a gel, using lukewarm water and a soft cloth .

Another problem is excessive exfoliation , such as applying acids to the entire face every day. This can lead to irritation and a weakened skin barrier. Instead, it's recommended to use PHA (gluconolactone) products 2-3 times a week, and focus on regeneration and hydration on the other days.

A popular but ineffective myth is that "closing pores" with cold water or steam baths is not effective. In reality, this doesn't affect pore size. A more effective solution is to alternate retinol with niacinamide , which improves skin texture.

Heavy, occlusive makeup or sunscreens can further weigh down the skin if not removed properly. Choosing lighter formulas and thoroughly removing makeup every evening is crucial.

Not using SPF is a serious mistake, leading to a rapid loss of skin elasticity. UV radiation weakens collagen and exacerbates the problem of enlarged pores. Therefore, daily sun protection with SPF 50 is recommended.

The final common mistake is introducing several new active ingredients at once. Skin needs time to adapt to the active ingredients. It's best to add one product every 10–14 days and closely monitor your skin's reaction.

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This conversion process often leads to irritation and unpredictable reactions. Novo-Retin already contains precursors that are gently released and activated in response to the skin's needs. Actions at the cellular level include: Stimulation of cell renewal - accelerating the natural process of exfoliation of the epidermis Increasing collagen production - activation of fibroblasts in the dermis Regulation of sebum production - normalization of the function of the sebaceous glands Antioxidant effect - protection against free radicals Advantages of bioretinol used in Orientana eye cream compared to traditional retinol Elimination of retinoid dermatitis This is the greatest advantage of biotechnological retinol. Novo-Retin does not cause the characteristic "retinol burn"—redness, peeling, and irritation that often accompany the use of traditional retinoids. No photosensitivity This means Novo-Retin can also be used during the day, unlike traditional retinol, which increases skin's sensitivity to UV radiation. This revolutionary change makes it much easier to incorporate retinol into your daily skincare routine. Stability in the formula Here's another key advantage: Traditional retinol is extremely unstable—it degrades when exposed to light, air, and heat. Novo-Retin retains its activity for a much longer period of time, which translates into greater effectiveness of the final products. Compatibility with other ingredients Compatibility with other ingredients is significantly improved. Novo-Retin can be safely combined with vitamin C and AHA/BHA acids – combinations that could be problematic with traditional retinol. Safety during pregnancy This is an added advantage - although you should always consult your doctor, Novo-Retin does not exhibit the developmental toxicity characteristic of high doses of retinoids. Clinical studies and the effectiveness of bioretinol A comparative study of Novo-Retin vs. retinol 0.5% conducted on a group of 120 people for 12 weeks showed: Wrinkle reduction : Novo-Retin 28% vs. retinol 25% Improved elasticity : Novo-Retin 31% vs. retinol 24% Reduction of discoloration : Novo-Retin 34% vs. retinol 29% Skin irritations : Novo-Retin 5% vs. retinol 47% Long-term safety studies covering 6 months of use showed no adverse side effects, while the group using traditional retinol reported 23% of cases of persistent irritation. The studies on sensitive skin are particularly impressive – 89% of people with sensitive skin tolerated Novo-Retin without any negative reactions, while only 12% could use traditional retinol. * manufacturer's tests The Future of Biotechnological Retinoids New generations of bio-retinols are already in the research phase. Scientists are developing molecules that will be even more selective in their action, activating only those receptors responsible for positive anti-aging effects, without affecting those that cause irritation. Personalization of bio-retinols based on genetic analysis will allow the type and concentration of biotechnological retinol to be adjusted to individual skin predispositions. Combinations with other biotechnological ingredients open up the possibility of creating synergistic complexes with multifaceted anti-aging effects. Novo-Retin represents the future of retinoids in cosmetics – it combines the proven effectiveness of traditional retinol with the safety and comfort of biotechnological ingredients. We are one of the few brands in the world to use this solution in our new anti-aging series.

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